Hello! So I have finally uploaded some pictures of our trip to Debrezait, Nazrit and Sodere and also from the Diwali Party we had at our house last weekend. I am still trying to upload photos from the Maskal celebrations in September, but the internet is being less than cooperative. I hope you are all doing wonderfully! Take care and talk soon.
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasannainethiopia
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Diwali Delight: Tiramisu, Stationery and Snacks
Today, on the actual day of Diwali (October 27), I celebrated with my boss, co-workers and colleagues at the office with some delicious Tiramisu.
In the afternoon, I received my first care package (Yay!) which was sent from my family in India. It was filled with sweets (i.e. date halwa – one of my favourites), snacks, plantain chips and mixture/trail mix for Diwali. It was also filled with stationery, markers, pencils, animal masks, and crayons and pencil sharpeners for the children at Menagesha! You see, I had tried to buy the children some paper and rudimentary supplies for my classes on Saturday, but when I went to the stationery store, 200 sheets of regular printer paper cost $20 and the markers and pens were even more expensive. I now totally understand why, during my elementary school years, we used to send pencils and stationery to children in Ethiopia as a part of Project Love. Paper products and school supplies in Ethiopia are ridiculously priced! In fact, the children at Menagesha are so careful with their paper. They keep using the same piece of paper to draw pictures over and over again with the one pen that someone gave to them years ago.
As such, I am so grateful for the materials! Thank you so much to my family - to Ammulamma (my grandmother) for making the wonderful date halwa and to my wonderful cousin, Asha, for buying all of the supplies for the children! I love you all very much!
In the afternoon, I received my first care package (Yay!) which was sent from my family in India. It was filled with sweets (i.e. date halwa – one of my favourites), snacks, plantain chips and mixture/trail mix for Diwali. It was also filled with stationery, markers, pencils, animal masks, and crayons and pencil sharpeners for the children at Menagesha! You see, I had tried to buy the children some paper and rudimentary supplies for my classes on Saturday, but when I went to the stationery store, 200 sheets of regular printer paper cost $20 and the markers and pens were even more expensive. I now totally understand why, during my elementary school years, we used to send pencils and stationery to children in Ethiopia as a part of Project Love. Paper products and school supplies in Ethiopia are ridiculously priced! In fact, the children at Menagesha are so careful with their paper. They keep using the same piece of paper to draw pictures over and over again with the one pen that someone gave to them years ago.
As such, I am so grateful for the materials! Thank you so much to my family - to Ammulamma (my grandmother) for making the wonderful date halwa and to my wonderful cousin, Asha, for buying all of the supplies for the children! I love you all very much!
Diwali Party
Some of you might recall the episode of the American television sitcom, The Office, where staff member and customer-service representative Kelly Kapoor invites everyone in the office to a Diwali Party which her parents are hosting. When asked about Diwali, Kelly has absolutely no idea what Diwali means and simply tells everyone it is a lot of “fun”! I don’t profess to be an expert on Diwali and my knowledge is likely just as limited as Kelly Kapoor (and she is right when she says it is “fun”), but the following is a brief description.
This year, October 27, 2008 is Diwali – the East Indian festival of lights. Diwali (or Deepavali as it is called in South India) is the most significant holiday and festival in India. While Diwali has religious significance for Hinduism, Jainism and Sikhism, Diwali has become a truly Indian, national festival celebrated by people from all faiths and denominations. The central notion is the lighting of the lamp to drive away darkness both literally and symbolically. Diwali is considered by some as the dawn of a New Year and as a time to celebrate with family and friends with food, fireworks, prayer and celebration. Employees often receive a large annual bonus from their companies/bosses on this day. Everyone in the family wears new clothes, eats lots of food and sweets, and listens to music and dances. Traditionally, the home is illuminated by hundreds of diyas, small terra cotta or brass oil lamps which are lit with matches. There are also fireworks to celebrate this auspicious occasion.
This year, I decided to throw a Diwali Party in Addis! It was a way for me both to connect to the rich cultural traditions of my family and heritage and to celebrate with the wonderful new friends I have made since moving to Addis 3 months ago. In total, there were about 32 people crammed into our house. We had a full East Indian meal, catered from Sangam, my favourite Indian restaurant in Addis! We had vegetable samosas, cracked pepper and caraway pappadum, green lime and coriander chutney, peas pilaf, navarathan khorma (mixed vegetables in a creamy tomato and spice gravy), palak paneer (rich East Indian cheese cooked in a simmering spinach and tomato gravy), freshly baked naan bread, and raitha (lightly spiced yogurt with grated carrot, cucumber, tomato and cilantro). For dessert, we had gulab jamun (essentially East Indian “Timbits” soaked in syrup infused with rose-essence, cardamom and sugar). Eric and Mary also brought some delectable Millefolille from Purple Café (which had the words Happy Diwali written on top) and there was some yummy chocolate cake from Swiss Café. For drinks, we had water and Ambo (sparkling water or Perrier bottled from the natural spring in Ambo, Ethiopia) and Mango juice (Maaza). We developed this delicious drink which I now call the “Mambo” which is a combo of 1/3 of a glass of Mango juice (Maaza) and 2/3 Ambo to create a fizzy mango drink concoction.
I must say that this party would not have been possible without Mary, Eric and Terefe’s family. I practically had to steal most of Terefe’s seating/furniture in order to have enough places for people to sit. Melat, Terefe’s eldest daughter, helped me decorate with lights and helped me arrange and light all of the candles on the pathway leading up to the main house. She also found a string of Christmas lights which we looped over the buffet. Abel, Terefe’s son, was the DJ for the evening. He found a whole host of Bollywood songs and made a mixed playlist on my ITunes with Bollywood music, South Indian classical music, bhajans (East Indian devotional hymns) and popular Western music. He played the tunes all night and made sure the music fit the mood of the moment, light instrumental and movie songs during dinner, pop music during cocktails and samosas, and upbeat Bollywood dance anthems during the fireworks. Oh yes, I forgot to mention, my amazing landlord Terefe got us fireworks for the party! About a month ago, I mentioned how important fireworks are for a Diwali celebration but how in Canada, it is virtually impossible to have your own fireworks display in your yard due to government regulations. Terefe went out the very next day and bought a huge collection of fireworks including the fountain type, the rockets, and the multi-coloured exploding type for us to use on Diwali in Addis.
At one point during the party, I thought that fireworks would be impossible. You see, as Murphy’s Law dictates, after nearly 6 weeks of hot weather and no rain, yesterday, a freak rainstorm from the Indian Ocean cast its shadow over the city of Addis, blanketing the city in a steady downpour for most of the afternoon. At one point, in the afternoon, while setting up for the party, Melat and I had to collect all of the candles from the main walkway in order to prevent them from getting wet in the rain.
When the rain stopped about an hour before the party, we thought we were in the clear, but sure enough right after dinner, when we were supposed to start the fireworks, the rain commenced anew with renewed and uncompromising vigor. I had all but given up on the fireworks and in fact, some people had started to leave after dessert when my landlord insisted that we would do the fireworks. The rain slowed and it was lightly “spitting” when he asked everyone to come out onto the front porch and started the fireworks display, launching the huge firecrackers from the front lawn! It was amazing and awesome and everyone had such a blast! Thank you so much Terefe. I will post pictures of the party, which my amazing friend Susan (who has mad photography skillz) took on my camera! Thanks Susan!
As I sit here writing this note on the actual day of Diwali, the festival of lights, I am grateful to all of the people who light up my life - my parents, family, friends, aunties and uncles, teachers and colleagues. You all mean the world to me. Happy Diwali to everyone both near and far! May the light of this special day enrich your lives, bring you joy and fill your hearts with love and laughter today, tomorrow and always. And as Kelly Kapoor so aptly put it, may today be “lots of fun and stuff.”
This year, October 27, 2008 is Diwali – the East Indian festival of lights. Diwali (or Deepavali as it is called in South India) is the most significant holiday and festival in India. While Diwali has religious significance for Hinduism, Jainism and Sikhism, Diwali has become a truly Indian, national festival celebrated by people from all faiths and denominations. The central notion is the lighting of the lamp to drive away darkness both literally and symbolically. Diwali is considered by some as the dawn of a New Year and as a time to celebrate with family and friends with food, fireworks, prayer and celebration. Employees often receive a large annual bonus from their companies/bosses on this day. Everyone in the family wears new clothes, eats lots of food and sweets, and listens to music and dances. Traditionally, the home is illuminated by hundreds of diyas, small terra cotta or brass oil lamps which are lit with matches. There are also fireworks to celebrate this auspicious occasion.
This year, I decided to throw a Diwali Party in Addis! It was a way for me both to connect to the rich cultural traditions of my family and heritage and to celebrate with the wonderful new friends I have made since moving to Addis 3 months ago. In total, there were about 32 people crammed into our house. We had a full East Indian meal, catered from Sangam, my favourite Indian restaurant in Addis! We had vegetable samosas, cracked pepper and caraway pappadum, green lime and coriander chutney, peas pilaf, navarathan khorma (mixed vegetables in a creamy tomato and spice gravy), palak paneer (rich East Indian cheese cooked in a simmering spinach and tomato gravy), freshly baked naan bread, and raitha (lightly spiced yogurt with grated carrot, cucumber, tomato and cilantro). For dessert, we had gulab jamun (essentially East Indian “Timbits” soaked in syrup infused with rose-essence, cardamom and sugar). Eric and Mary also brought some delectable Millefolille from Purple Café (which had the words Happy Diwali written on top) and there was some yummy chocolate cake from Swiss Café. For drinks, we had water and Ambo (sparkling water or Perrier bottled from the natural spring in Ambo, Ethiopia) and Mango juice (Maaza). We developed this delicious drink which I now call the “Mambo” which is a combo of 1/3 of a glass of Mango juice (Maaza) and 2/3 Ambo to create a fizzy mango drink concoction.
I must say that this party would not have been possible without Mary, Eric and Terefe’s family. I practically had to steal most of Terefe’s seating/furniture in order to have enough places for people to sit. Melat, Terefe’s eldest daughter, helped me decorate with lights and helped me arrange and light all of the candles on the pathway leading up to the main house. She also found a string of Christmas lights which we looped over the buffet. Abel, Terefe’s son, was the DJ for the evening. He found a whole host of Bollywood songs and made a mixed playlist on my ITunes with Bollywood music, South Indian classical music, bhajans (East Indian devotional hymns) and popular Western music. He played the tunes all night and made sure the music fit the mood of the moment, light instrumental and movie songs during dinner, pop music during cocktails and samosas, and upbeat Bollywood dance anthems during the fireworks. Oh yes, I forgot to mention, my amazing landlord Terefe got us fireworks for the party! About a month ago, I mentioned how important fireworks are for a Diwali celebration but how in Canada, it is virtually impossible to have your own fireworks display in your yard due to government regulations. Terefe went out the very next day and bought a huge collection of fireworks including the fountain type, the rockets, and the multi-coloured exploding type for us to use on Diwali in Addis.
At one point during the party, I thought that fireworks would be impossible. You see, as Murphy’s Law dictates, after nearly 6 weeks of hot weather and no rain, yesterday, a freak rainstorm from the Indian Ocean cast its shadow over the city of Addis, blanketing the city in a steady downpour for most of the afternoon. At one point, in the afternoon, while setting up for the party, Melat and I had to collect all of the candles from the main walkway in order to prevent them from getting wet in the rain.
When the rain stopped about an hour before the party, we thought we were in the clear, but sure enough right after dinner, when we were supposed to start the fireworks, the rain commenced anew with renewed and uncompromising vigor. I had all but given up on the fireworks and in fact, some people had started to leave after dessert when my landlord insisted that we would do the fireworks. The rain slowed and it was lightly “spitting” when he asked everyone to come out onto the front porch and started the fireworks display, launching the huge firecrackers from the front lawn! It was amazing and awesome and everyone had such a blast! Thank you so much Terefe. I will post pictures of the party, which my amazing friend Susan (who has mad photography skillz) took on my camera! Thanks Susan!
As I sit here writing this note on the actual day of Diwali, the festival of lights, I am grateful to all of the people who light up my life - my parents, family, friends, aunties and uncles, teachers and colleagues. You all mean the world to me. Happy Diwali to everyone both near and far! May the light of this special day enrich your lives, bring you joy and fill your hearts with love and laughter today, tomorrow and always. And as Kelly Kapoor so aptly put it, may today be “lots of fun and stuff.”
Monday, October 27, 2008
Dance Dance Revolution and Name that Tune: Ethiopian Edition
On Saturday, when I was teaching my class at Menagesha, I met W, a hilarious, lively and incredibly mischievous little boy! You see W is likely the smallest child at Menagesha in terms of height, but like all contrasts in life, he strikes fear and terror in the heart of every other child there! The other children are truly afraid of him. He smiles his wicked smile and then without warning and often without provocation, he will plunge forward and attack any other child that looks at him sideways.
He is a spitfire! However, in addition to being the designated bully, W is also a wicked dancer. He was showing me and the other children his dancing skills. He was showing me dances from the Amhara region, the Oromo region and Tigrinya dancing. He also does this thing where he jumps out of his wheelchair, flips the wheelchair on its side climbs on to the wheel of the wheelchair and then spins himself on the wheel in true vintage, break-dancing fashion – all to the beat of the music. He is ridiculously talented (and I have to admit, kinda scary in a Tony Soprano kind of way). Thanks for the dance demonstration W!
This weekend, I also learned a number of Amharic religious and traditional hymns (called Mazmoor – religious hymns) from the children in the recovery ward at Menagesha. These children had just undergone extensive surgery and were still recovering on bed-rest, but this did not prevent them from teaching me a whole host of songs. The lyrics of these songs are as follows:
Song 1:
Amla Kay Balai Baliya – Beara
Azai-no Bownett
Fitzum Azaiye
Mita Bikan Yey – Mazananaiye
Song 2:
Fitzum Azinow Oulet-Tao
Xavier – Tenya Iyar Ago
Song 3:
Kafataari Batachu
Kafataurawn – Balai
Manal – endanchi
Dum-o-la-doo-lay
Song 4 (This song is about love and faith, I think):
Chorus : Fikir Lesallalam Endante Yellam
Kahaleena Geytah Yema Taretta
Igic Fatanew Saragulluchi
Yesat Fallasuwa Yezwal Bajjochew
Verse 1: Ayesha – na – fim
Aworkim Kaatum
Zaarem Yeeno-raal
Maka-du-molto
(Chorus)
Verse 2: Yaagurameraama
Takuralsaamaayoo
Alakooshaashu Kabrooneeya – You
Yemastagaaba
Mabrek-Now Dimsu
Yesi-yon – Najotch
Thanawawatoo
(Chorus)
Verse 3: Aynook – indayetch
Afardoom – Anta
Merkoo – Abazitayay
Tizackalamoto
Endet – e – derke
Biye – alelahim
Fikur – ninna – lezella – alem
(Chorus)
Verse 4: Metazayabeut Megawat-Towgale
Fittret Manennay
Untahe-Iyaley
Yedystamunchay
Yehiltabeytay Zayutinaktol
Abruthol – Feetay
(Chorus)
He is a spitfire! However, in addition to being the designated bully, W is also a wicked dancer. He was showing me and the other children his dancing skills. He was showing me dances from the Amhara region, the Oromo region and Tigrinya dancing. He also does this thing where he jumps out of his wheelchair, flips the wheelchair on its side climbs on to the wheel of the wheelchair and then spins himself on the wheel in true vintage, break-dancing fashion – all to the beat of the music. He is ridiculously talented (and I have to admit, kinda scary in a Tony Soprano kind of way). Thanks for the dance demonstration W!
This weekend, I also learned a number of Amharic religious and traditional hymns (called Mazmoor – religious hymns) from the children in the recovery ward at Menagesha. These children had just undergone extensive surgery and were still recovering on bed-rest, but this did not prevent them from teaching me a whole host of songs. The lyrics of these songs are as follows:
Song 1:
Amla Kay Balai Baliya – Beara
Azai-no Bownett
Fitzum Azaiye
Mita Bikan Yey – Mazananaiye
Song 2:
Fitzum Azinow Oulet-Tao
Xavier – Tenya Iyar Ago
Song 3:
Kafataari Batachu
Kafataurawn – Balai
Manal – endanchi
Dum-o-la-doo-lay
Song 4 (This song is about love and faith, I think):
Chorus : Fikir Lesallalam Endante Yellam
Kahaleena Geytah Yema Taretta
Igic Fatanew Saragulluchi
Yesat Fallasuwa Yezwal Bajjochew
Verse 1: Ayesha – na – fim
Aworkim Kaatum
Zaarem Yeeno-raal
Maka-du-molto
(Chorus)
Verse 2: Yaagurameraama
Takuralsaamaayoo
Alakooshaashu Kabrooneeya – You
Yemastagaaba
Mabrek-Now Dimsu
Yesi-yon – Najotch
Thanawawatoo
(Chorus)
Verse 3: Aynook – indayetch
Afardoom – Anta
Merkoo – Abazitayay
Tizackalamoto
Endet – e – derke
Biye – alelahim
Fikur – ninna – lezella – alem
(Chorus)
Verse 4: Metazayabeut Megawat-Towgale
Fittret Manennay
Untahe-Iyaley
Yedystamunchay
Yehiltabeytay Zayutinaktol
Abruthol – Feetay
(Chorus)
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Cell Phone, Schmell Phone
Hi all! Just a quick note to let you know that due to dramatic circumstances far beyond my control, I have had to get a new cell phone number effective immediately. My new cell phone number is (for those calling from Canada) 011 251 913319302. The land line telephone number remains the same at 011 251 11 6633322. Hope to talk to you all soon!
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Good Afternoon Mr. President
On Sunday, October 19, 2008, I went to the National Palace in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia to attend an invitation-only event hosted by His Excellency Girma Wolde Ghiorghis, President of the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia. Yes, you read that correctly, yesterday, I went to an event hosted by the President of Ethiopia!
Let’s go back to the very beginning. On Friday night, I received a text message from my friend and colleague Sehen who works for the UN. She informed me that she had an invitation for me to attend the annual debriefing ceremony and gala reception for the Ethiopian National PolioPlus Committee of Rotary International at the National Palace. You see, every year, Rotary International conducts a 7-day intensive Polio vaccination program which sees healthcare professionals traveling door to door in rural communities in Ethiopia to provide polio vaccinations. The program is supported by Rotary International and has received around 100 million dollars in funding from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. At the end of the annual 7-day program, the President of Ethiopia hosts a debriefing ceremony and gala reception in his presence at the National Palace.
I arrived at the Palace as per the invitation’s instructions at 1:45 PM on Sunday and went through security screening before entering the Palace. The security kept all cell phones and cameras before allowing anyone into the Palace. We were seated around 2 PM and the ceremony commenced at 3 PM with the Grand Procession where the President and several Ministers entered the palace and walked down the center aisle.
There were a number of speeches by the heads of the different Rotary clubs and a representative from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation made a presentation. The entire ceremony was conducted in the grand palace courtroom/chamber. You see, the National Palace, now the home of the President of Ethiopia, was once the home of Emperor Haile Selassie back in the day and he held court in this large ballroom/courtroom/chamber. Emperor Selassie had his morning meeting with the ministers in this room and in the afternoon, he sat as a judge of the Supreme Court of Ethiopia hearing cases in this very room. He was the Court of ultimate appeal and his decisions were both final and binding on the parties concerned. His royal throne still holds a place of prominence on a raised dais at the end of the grand chamber. In front of this throne, about 3 or four large plushy / formal chairs were set up for the President of Ethiopia and the Ministers who were in attendance. The podium was set up at the other end of the ballroom/court/chamber so it was very dramatic when people were giving presentations, because, as the audience, we were seated in rows all the way down the sides of the room, just as the junior ministers, bureaucrats and aristocrats would have been seated back in the day. The voices of the presenters echoed and boomed in the vast expanse of the room.
Let me just say that the Palace did not disappoint. It is a long, expansive ivory-coloured edifice with numerous columns. It is situated far from the main gate behind lush gardens. It reminded me a bit of the description Jane Austen gives of Mr. Darcy’s estate Pemberley in Pride and Prejudice. She talks about how Pemberley only comes into view after a winding path and is obscured from full view by trees. The only difference was there were no rolling hills leading up to the National Palace like there were leading up to Pemberley.
The best description I can provide of the palace is that it is nostalgic, expansive and completely exotic. The main courtroom/chamber has huge vaulted ceilings, crown moldings, marble and wood floors, chandeliers, huge windows, billowing tapestries and fabrics, rich carpets, ornate furniture and varied artwork. Similarly, the ballroom/grand dining room where the cocktail reception was held after the ceremony was a sight for sore eyes. It once again boasted beautiful chandeliers, gleaming floors and a vast collection of artwork.
Now, the one thing about the palace that was extremely interesting to me was the reliance on animals for art. During the ceremony, seated in front of the President’s chair was this huge, real (or at once real anyways), stuffed lion. It was killed during hunting and stuffed. Similarly, in the grand ballroom/dining room, there is this huge stuffed leopard that watches over everyone and there are tons (and I mean tons) of ivory artifacts and elephant tusks everywhere. There are many hunting weapons on display. Let me just say that I am pretty sure that Emperor Selassie and now the President are not vegetarians. The only piece of art that was not somehow war, hunting or animal related was this vintage TV and speaker set. I am not sure if the TV is still used, but it is one of those old models that are ensconced in the wood-panelled box/encasement. Very vintage. The animal art makes sense in hindsight, given what I have learned about Emperor Haile Selassie from reading The Emperor. He was apparently an avid animal enthusiast and had pet leopards, lions and other animals around the palace. The entire palace is frozen in time – it is like Emperor Selassie never really left or he did and they have just not gotten around to redecorating. It is so interesting to visit the palace because it feels like you are stepping through a time portal that takes you back to another era – very Back to the Future (Part 1).
Oh – I totally forgot to mention anything about the President of Ethiopia. Well, his Excellency gave a speech which he delivered from his throne/official seat thanking Rotary International and its many partners for hosting the Polio vaccination clinics. He is an elderly man, but extremely stately and regal. I was under the impression that we would all have a chance to shake his hand and exchange greetings, but he was surrounded by guards and did not take pictures with anyone.
I was also super excited to attend this event, because a few of my students from Cheshire Services Ethiopia at Menagesha were to perform a song for the President of Ethiopia as a part of the program. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, they were not able to perform their piece but they did have a chance to present the President with flowers. It was great to see them afterwards enjoying the reception and eating the yummy cake (the food at the reception was delicious by the way – juice, mini-pizzas, cheese, bread, cake, puffs etc.). They were excited to see me and a bit shocked to see me in a suit. Usually when I head to class on Saturday mornings, I have literally rolled out of bed and put on a polar fleece and some khakis. I think they were shocked that I owned anything else to wear.
All in all, the experience was extremely memorable. Thank you so much Sehen for the ticket!
Let’s go back to the very beginning. On Friday night, I received a text message from my friend and colleague Sehen who works for the UN. She informed me that she had an invitation for me to attend the annual debriefing ceremony and gala reception for the Ethiopian National PolioPlus Committee of Rotary International at the National Palace. You see, every year, Rotary International conducts a 7-day intensive Polio vaccination program which sees healthcare professionals traveling door to door in rural communities in Ethiopia to provide polio vaccinations. The program is supported by Rotary International and has received around 100 million dollars in funding from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. At the end of the annual 7-day program, the President of Ethiopia hosts a debriefing ceremony and gala reception in his presence at the National Palace.
I arrived at the Palace as per the invitation’s instructions at 1:45 PM on Sunday and went through security screening before entering the Palace. The security kept all cell phones and cameras before allowing anyone into the Palace. We were seated around 2 PM and the ceremony commenced at 3 PM with the Grand Procession where the President and several Ministers entered the palace and walked down the center aisle.
There were a number of speeches by the heads of the different Rotary clubs and a representative from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation made a presentation. The entire ceremony was conducted in the grand palace courtroom/chamber. You see, the National Palace, now the home of the President of Ethiopia, was once the home of Emperor Haile Selassie back in the day and he held court in this large ballroom/courtroom/chamber. Emperor Selassie had his morning meeting with the ministers in this room and in the afternoon, he sat as a judge of the Supreme Court of Ethiopia hearing cases in this very room. He was the Court of ultimate appeal and his decisions were both final and binding on the parties concerned. His royal throne still holds a place of prominence on a raised dais at the end of the grand chamber. In front of this throne, about 3 or four large plushy / formal chairs were set up for the President of Ethiopia and the Ministers who were in attendance. The podium was set up at the other end of the ballroom/court/chamber so it was very dramatic when people were giving presentations, because, as the audience, we were seated in rows all the way down the sides of the room, just as the junior ministers, bureaucrats and aristocrats would have been seated back in the day. The voices of the presenters echoed and boomed in the vast expanse of the room.
Let me just say that the Palace did not disappoint. It is a long, expansive ivory-coloured edifice with numerous columns. It is situated far from the main gate behind lush gardens. It reminded me a bit of the description Jane Austen gives of Mr. Darcy’s estate Pemberley in Pride and Prejudice. She talks about how Pemberley only comes into view after a winding path and is obscured from full view by trees. The only difference was there were no rolling hills leading up to the National Palace like there were leading up to Pemberley.
The best description I can provide of the palace is that it is nostalgic, expansive and completely exotic. The main courtroom/chamber has huge vaulted ceilings, crown moldings, marble and wood floors, chandeliers, huge windows, billowing tapestries and fabrics, rich carpets, ornate furniture and varied artwork. Similarly, the ballroom/grand dining room where the cocktail reception was held after the ceremony was a sight for sore eyes. It once again boasted beautiful chandeliers, gleaming floors and a vast collection of artwork.
Now, the one thing about the palace that was extremely interesting to me was the reliance on animals for art. During the ceremony, seated in front of the President’s chair was this huge, real (or at once real anyways), stuffed lion. It was killed during hunting and stuffed. Similarly, in the grand ballroom/dining room, there is this huge stuffed leopard that watches over everyone and there are tons (and I mean tons) of ivory artifacts and elephant tusks everywhere. There are many hunting weapons on display. Let me just say that I am pretty sure that Emperor Selassie and now the President are not vegetarians. The only piece of art that was not somehow war, hunting or animal related was this vintage TV and speaker set. I am not sure if the TV is still used, but it is one of those old models that are ensconced in the wood-panelled box/encasement. Very vintage. The animal art makes sense in hindsight, given what I have learned about Emperor Haile Selassie from reading The Emperor. He was apparently an avid animal enthusiast and had pet leopards, lions and other animals around the palace. The entire palace is frozen in time – it is like Emperor Selassie never really left or he did and they have just not gotten around to redecorating. It is so interesting to visit the palace because it feels like you are stepping through a time portal that takes you back to another era – very Back to the Future (Part 1).
Oh – I totally forgot to mention anything about the President of Ethiopia. Well, his Excellency gave a speech which he delivered from his throne/official seat thanking Rotary International and its many partners for hosting the Polio vaccination clinics. He is an elderly man, but extremely stately and regal. I was under the impression that we would all have a chance to shake his hand and exchange greetings, but he was surrounded by guards and did not take pictures with anyone.
I was also super excited to attend this event, because a few of my students from Cheshire Services Ethiopia at Menagesha were to perform a song for the President of Ethiopia as a part of the program. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, they were not able to perform their piece but they did have a chance to present the President with flowers. It was great to see them afterwards enjoying the reception and eating the yummy cake (the food at the reception was delicious by the way – juice, mini-pizzas, cheese, bread, cake, puffs etc.). They were excited to see me and a bit shocked to see me in a suit. Usually when I head to class on Saturday mornings, I have literally rolled out of bed and put on a polar fleece and some khakis. I think they were shocked that I owned anything else to wear.
All in all, the experience was extremely memorable. Thank you so much Sehen for the ticket!
Lights Out, Royal Flush
On Saturday night, the power/electricity went out at our house. Power outages are not unfamiliar territory for me. Visiting India, you become accustomed to regular power outages which can often last for quite some time. On Saturday, I was in the midst of cleaning/doing some laundry when the power went out. I noticed that two of the youngest children at my landlord’s place were home alone. I invited them to sit with me on the front patio of the house where there were candles/lanterns and play cards. The youngest son, Baumlik, taught me how to play the card game called Injera and Wot (Ethiopian Bread and Stew) which is essentially the Ethiopian version of Go Fish. You fan out all of the cards face down in a large circle to form the injera (bread) and in the middle, you put four cards face up to form the Wot (stew). You then each take turns picking up one card from the injera ring and if the card you pick up matches one of the cards in the middle – you pick it up and get to keep the pair. This is what I understood anyways. I am pretty convinced that Baumlik was letting me win, especially since the rules would often unexpectedly change in my favour. Abel, the second youngest son, then taught me how to play a few other card games that are popular in Ethiopia. Our card games reminded me of playing cards with my cousins in India when the power went out. Good times.
Sewing with 'S'
This weekend I set out for my Saturday morning working with the children at Menagesha. This week, I met 15-year old S (I will leave out his full name), a boy with a mobility-related disability. He informed me that he has had multiple surgeries on his right leg which have resulted in complete loss of sensation and use of that leg. He is at Menagesha following his most recent series of surgeries in a post-surgery rehabilitation program. He talked to me at length about his family and his journey to Menagesha. He told me about the poverty that his family faces on a daily basis. His father, a farmer, and his mother, a cook, work long hours each and every day in order to barely provide for the basic needs of their family. He has 1 brother and 2 sisters. He informed me that his family is from a small rural community known as Sharbet. I asked if he has had a chance to see his family since his surgery, to which his response was no. He also informed me that he had no idea when he would next see his family. While such crushing news would be devastating to even the most seasoned adult, this young man, facing so many obstacles and a deep separation from his family and home, was positive and alive. He has taken his future in his own hands and is crafting out a course in life that will both fulfill him creatively but also support him in the form of a livelihood.
You see, while at Menagesha, S has been honing his artisan skills. At 15, he is an accomplished tailor and is quite adept at using the sewing machine. He has created beautiful linens etc. from the fabric that is donated to Menagesha. The arts teacher at Menagesha who oversees the handicraft/artistry program (which creates a number of traditional crafts, bags, and baskets which are then sold to support the children) is quite proud of him and calls him her most talented student.
S is also a teacher, an inspiration and a leader for all the children at Menagesha. He inspires the other children by his gentle presence, kind nature and good manners. He takes time to teach the other children arts and sewing and help them with their various projects.
On Saturday, S insisted that I try using the sewing machine. He indicated that he would teach me how to sew. I have not used a sewing machine for nearly 13 years and the last time was in Grade 9 sewing class. I told him that I barely passed Grade 9 sewing and this was after my teacher (I am not naming any names, but those of you in Grade 9 with me remember that class well) had practically made my entire final project for me (she kept using my hoodie as the example to show the class how to do particular stitches – she was pretty certain that I had no idea what I was doing). Furthermore, the sewing machine at Menagesha is a vintage [and I mean VINTAGE] Singer machine with the winding wheel on the side to make the machine run. This was no automated gizmo. Under S’s tutelage, I began to sew my very first pillowcase. All the while he was encouraging me and telling me that I was doing a great job!
S is one of those rare people in life that truly understands the meaning of compassion, inner strength and determination. That he has had to grow up so quickly is at the same time impressive and unfortunate. Part of me thinks that in facing such adversity at such a young age and in taking on this role as mentor to the other children, he has lost a part of his childhood that he can never truly recover. In the process, however, he has gained the respect and admiration of all of those around him, who have come to count on him as a source of strength and comfort. He is a bright light in the lives of these children. He is an inspiration. The world needs more people like S.
You see, while at Menagesha, S has been honing his artisan skills. At 15, he is an accomplished tailor and is quite adept at using the sewing machine. He has created beautiful linens etc. from the fabric that is donated to Menagesha. The arts teacher at Menagesha who oversees the handicraft/artistry program (which creates a number of traditional crafts, bags, and baskets which are then sold to support the children) is quite proud of him and calls him her most talented student.
S is also a teacher, an inspiration and a leader for all the children at Menagesha. He inspires the other children by his gentle presence, kind nature and good manners. He takes time to teach the other children arts and sewing and help them with their various projects.
On Saturday, S insisted that I try using the sewing machine. He indicated that he would teach me how to sew. I have not used a sewing machine for nearly 13 years and the last time was in Grade 9 sewing class. I told him that I barely passed Grade 9 sewing and this was after my teacher (I am not naming any names, but those of you in Grade 9 with me remember that class well) had practically made my entire final project for me (she kept using my hoodie as the example to show the class how to do particular stitches – she was pretty certain that I had no idea what I was doing). Furthermore, the sewing machine at Menagesha is a vintage [and I mean VINTAGE] Singer machine with the winding wheel on the side to make the machine run. This was no automated gizmo. Under S’s tutelage, I began to sew my very first pillowcase. All the while he was encouraging me and telling me that I was doing a great job!
S is one of those rare people in life that truly understands the meaning of compassion, inner strength and determination. That he has had to grow up so quickly is at the same time impressive and unfortunate. Part of me thinks that in facing such adversity at such a young age and in taking on this role as mentor to the other children, he has lost a part of his childhood that he can never truly recover. In the process, however, he has gained the respect and admiration of all of those around him, who have come to count on him as a source of strength and comfort. He is a bright light in the lives of these children. He is an inspiration. The world needs more people like S.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Canada Votes 2008 – Ethiopia Edition
So, last week, I traveled to the Canadian Embassy in Addis Ababa to cast my vote in the Canadian federal election that is happening today (October 14). It was important to me to cast my vote and make my voice heard. In this election, voting has had a more tangible, immediate quality. I don’t know if it is the pre-eminence of the American elections in the world consciousness (and the sense of vote, vote, vote) or whether it was this sense of wanting to make my voice heard in some small way, but I felt compelled to vote in a way that I never have before.
In any event, I was in a foreign land under the auspices of a Canadian federal government program. I realized how much Canada has given to me and how important it is to maintain that connection. Furthermore, living in Ethiopia, a country where democracy is a relatively recent phenomenon and where the political and social landscapes are ever-evolving in a roiling, eruptive fashion, the right to vote has taken on a whole new level of importance for me.
So, for all of my Canadian family and friends, make sure to get out there and vote today! Hey, if I could manage to get out and vote in Addis, you have no excuse not to travel to the polling station nearest you and exercise the very same right. Voting, it’s in you to give….or is that blood (the Red Cross commercial)? – I cannot remember the slogan. Oh well, you get the point. Vote.
In any event, I was in a foreign land under the auspices of a Canadian federal government program. I realized how much Canada has given to me and how important it is to maintain that connection. Furthermore, living in Ethiopia, a country where democracy is a relatively recent phenomenon and where the political and social landscapes are ever-evolving in a roiling, eruptive fashion, the right to vote has taken on a whole new level of importance for me.
So, for all of my Canadian family and friends, make sure to get out there and vote today! Hey, if I could manage to get out and vote in Addis, you have no excuse not to travel to the polling station nearest you and exercise the very same right. Voting, it’s in you to give….or is that blood (the Red Cross commercial)? – I cannot remember the slogan. Oh well, you get the point. Vote.
Movies - Oldies but Goodies
This weekend, I was feeling a little under the weather, so after I returned from my class at Menagesha on Saturday, I spent the rest of the weekend recuperating at home. To this end, I rented a number of movies to tide me over. I watched Unfaithful starring Richard Gere and Diane Lane. Diane Lane was nominated for an Oscar for her performance in this movie. I also watched North Country starring Charlize Theron in a turn that also netted her an Oscar nomination. This movie was about the first class-action sexual harassment lawsuit in the United States and dealt with a miner who as the representative plaintiff commenced an action against a huge mining company after enduring brutal harassment in the workplace and failing to get any assistance from management to stop the harassment. The movie was really interesting and it was directed by Nikki Caro who also directed Whale Rider starring Keisha Castle-Hughes. If any of you have not seen Whale Rider or North Country – I really recommend both. Nikki Caro is a visionary.
Finally, I saw the movie Akeelah and the Bee starring Angela Bassett and Laurence Fishburne in their first movie together since What’s Love Got to Do with It? This was such a great movie. For those of you who do not know, I am a huge fan of the Scripps National Spelling Bee (yes – I know I am a geek and I am proud of it) and the documentary they made chronicling the lives of 7 different child prodigy spellers who were vying for the top prize at the national competition. The documentary is called Spellbound (I highly recommend it). This movie, unlike the documentary Spellbound, was a fictional depiction of one little girl’s journey through the competition. It was really good – one of those movies you can watch with your parents and they will love it too!
Finally, I saw the movie Akeelah and the Bee starring Angela Bassett and Laurence Fishburne in their first movie together since What’s Love Got to Do with It? This was such a great movie. For those of you who do not know, I am a huge fan of the Scripps National Spelling Bee (yes – I know I am a geek and I am proud of it) and the documentary they made chronicling the lives of 7 different child prodigy spellers who were vying for the top prize at the national competition. The documentary is called Spellbound (I highly recommend it). This movie, unlike the documentary Spellbound, was a fictional depiction of one little girl’s journey through the competition. It was really good – one of those movies you can watch with your parents and they will love it too!
Absolutely Amharic
So, on the weekend, I made my trip to Menagesha to teach English / Music on Saturday morning. The kids were wonderful as usual. This week, I asked the children to describe what they wanted to be when they grew up. Most of the children wanted to be doctors, some wanted to be teachers, others wanted to be scientists, one wanted to be a “cow farmer”, one wanted to be an artist, one wanted to be prime minister, one wanted to be a farmer and one wanted to be an artist. When I asked if anyone wanted to be a lawyer like me, the room fell completely silent. I swear - you could hear crickets. The kids all stared at me and then burst out laughing – essentially telling me in unspoken code – as if anyone would actually want to be a lawyer. It is like one of those really bad lawyer jokes - except that it happened. Good times.
In other news, I learnt a whole new slew of Amharic words from the children this week. The list is as follows:
English – Amharic
Beard – Sim
Small – Thinnush
Short – Hacchur
Tall – Rajum
Thin – Kacchum
Fat – Ophram
Pen – Scripto
Paper – Luke
Ladybug – Tiziza
Rabbit – Tinjun
Star – Coco
Football – Quos
Fish – Asa
Straw – Wancha
Elephant – Zoowon
House – Bet
Cat – Dimut
Horse – Ferez
Boy – Wunt
Girl – Sayt
Oohckool – Equal
Teacher – Astamaarii
Doctor – Doctor
Scientist – Zafaranya
In other news, I learnt a whole new slew of Amharic words from the children this week. The list is as follows:
English – Amharic
Beard – Sim
Small – Thinnush
Short – Hacchur
Tall – Rajum
Thin – Kacchum
Fat – Ophram
Pen – Scripto
Paper – Luke
Ladybug – Tiziza
Rabbit – Tinjun
Star – Coco
Football – Quos
Fish – Asa
Straw – Wancha
Elephant – Zoowon
House – Bet
Cat – Dimut
Horse – Ferez
Boy – Wunt
Girl – Sayt
Oohckool – Equal
Teacher – Astamaarii
Doctor – Doctor
Scientist – Zafaranya
Friday Night Dinner (Not at the Gilmores)
On Friday evening, my good friend Susan invited a group of us over to her house for dinner. She prepared this absolutely delicious vegetarian pad thai and there were tons of lovely salads. It was also lovely to meet some of her friends in Addis whom I had not met before. Thanks so much Susan! Dinner was amazing and I had so much fun! I must get the pad thai recipe from you – I loved it!
Incredibly Indian
So, this past week, I have visited two Indian restaurants – one called Shaheen in the Sheraton hotel and the other called Ajanta. I went to Ajanta with a group of people 2 weekends ago and we have a mouth-watering array of dishes to enjoy including Palak Paneer (Spinach and paneer cheese) and Bhangan Bhartha (Pureed Eggplant Sauce/Gravy). There were close to 14 of us at dinner and it was nice to hang out with the other interns, Canadians and ex-pats who are currently calling Addis home.
I also visited Ajanta this past weekend because I heard they had rasam (which is a South Indian lentil tomato soup that is great for curing an upset tummy). Unfortunately, this restaurant’s version of rasam is far from the medley of lentils, spices, and herbs that combine to make this staple food. Instead, the restaurant decided to make rasam by mixing tandoori chicken paste with water and adding some chili powder. I have never tasted rasam like that in my life and I will take a pass at trying it again.
On Friday, feeling indulgent, slightly homesick and in need of some pampering, I decided to visit the Sheraton to enjoy their Indian restaurant, Shaheen, regarded as the jewel of Indian restaurants in Addis. Well, the jewel description is certainly apt. Shaheen is an opulent mixture of Indian artistry with old-world glamour. The silverware was all pure silver (not just the stainless steel garb we insist on calling silverware). There were silver goblets at each place setting with crystal to match, brass charger plates, ridiculous amounts of expensive china and all of the food was served in pure silver dishes. However, while the food was yummy, the prices were in keeping with the rich décor and general tenor of the Sheraton – i.e. ridonkulous. However, when converted into dollars, the meal was quite a reasonable price. For those of you who don’t know, I am notoriously cheap by nature, so coming home to Canada is indeed going to be a shock to the good ol’ pocketbook after being used to the cheaper prices in Ethiopia.
I also visited Ajanta this past weekend because I heard they had rasam (which is a South Indian lentil tomato soup that is great for curing an upset tummy). Unfortunately, this restaurant’s version of rasam is far from the medley of lentils, spices, and herbs that combine to make this staple food. Instead, the restaurant decided to make rasam by mixing tandoori chicken paste with water and adding some chili powder. I have never tasted rasam like that in my life and I will take a pass at trying it again.
On Friday, feeling indulgent, slightly homesick and in need of some pampering, I decided to visit the Sheraton to enjoy their Indian restaurant, Shaheen, regarded as the jewel of Indian restaurants in Addis. Well, the jewel description is certainly apt. Shaheen is an opulent mixture of Indian artistry with old-world glamour. The silverware was all pure silver (not just the stainless steel garb we insist on calling silverware). There were silver goblets at each place setting with crystal to match, brass charger plates, ridiculous amounts of expensive china and all of the food was served in pure silver dishes. However, while the food was yummy, the prices were in keeping with the rich décor and general tenor of the Sheraton – i.e. ridonkulous. However, when converted into dollars, the meal was quite a reasonable price. For those of you who don’t know, I am notoriously cheap by nature, so coming home to Canada is indeed going to be a shock to the good ol’ pocketbook after being used to the cheaper prices in Ethiopia.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Learning Amharic - Part Hulet (2)
So, this past weekend, I was taught a list of Amharic phrases and words by the children at Menagesha. Ato Brahan at the EBA also taught me a number of new phrases. For those of you learning Amharic with me, the list is as follows:
English – Amharic
Hand – Itch
Leg – Igir
Hair – Tsagur
Ear – Jeyro
Eye – Ine
Nose – Afinja
Cheek – Gunjur
Forehead – Gimbar
Neck – Guroro
Teeth – Terz
Tongue – Melas
Finger – Tat
Book – Mesaf
Exercise Book – Doftor
Pillow – Taras
Bed Sheet – Alga Livs
Bed – Alga
Wheelchair – Gari
Window – Mescoat
Light – Mabrat
Ceiling – Tara
Cup – Cubaya
Water – Wuha
Cupboard – Comodina
Curtain – Megaraja
Jug – Joog
TV – television
Doll – Ashagulet
Sleep – Engulf
Hello – Salaam
Dehna – I am fine
Sleep – Taneja/Na Tenya
Friend – Godenya
Plane - Aeropla
Watch (Timex) – Sabat
Shoes – Chama
Socks – Kals
Yes – Awhoa
No – Yellem
Shirt – Chemise
Pants – Pants
Tie – Makoleff
Scarf – Matamtem
Hat – Barnetta
Glasses – Menaser
Sunglasses – Yesahai Menaser
Colours
Red – Kaye
Black – Kcoor
White – Nej
Yellow – Bectcha
Green – Aranguadey
Blue – Samayaway
Animals
Lion - Ambassa
Rat – Iyte
Fish – Asa
Chicken/Hen – Doro
Snake – Iravit
Elephant – Zoowon
Donkey – Haya
Monkey – Gingero
Goat – Fiel
Tiger – Nabir
Giraffe – Kajaney
Horse – Ferez
Days of the Week
Sunday - Ehood
Monday - Sanyo
Tuesday – Mak Sanyo
Wednesday - Rob
Thursday - Hamus
Friday - Harb
Saturday - Kidame
Proverbs
Little by Little an Egg Walks – Un Koolal Kus Bakus Bagrua Tedaletch
(This means slow and steady wins the race. Or progress is made slowly and incrementally or something to that effect)
Man is Man – Sow Sownow
(This means that everyone is equal – nobody is better than anyone else)
God Listens to Life’s Words – Kalayot Yaashima
(This means either that God listens to our prayers or God bless you)
God Bless You – Xavier ibarket
Numbers
1 – And
2 - Hulet
3 - Sost
4 - Arat
5 - Amnest
6 - Sidist
7 - Sabat
8 - Simind
9 - Zetaing
10 – Asra/Asir
11 – Asra-And
12 – Asra-Hulet
13 – Asra-Sost
14 – Asra-Arat
15 – Asra-Amnest
16 – Asra-Sidist
17 – Asra-Sabat
18 – Asra-Simind
19 – Asra-Zetaing
20 – Haya
21 – Haya-And (and so on)
30 – Selassa
40 – Arba
50 – Hamsa
60 – Silisa
70 – Saba
80 – Samana
90 – Zetana
100 – Mato
200 – Hulet Mato
1000 – Shi
1000000 – And-Millenie
English – Amharic
Hand – Itch
Leg – Igir
Hair – Tsagur
Ear – Jeyro
Eye – Ine
Nose – Afinja
Cheek – Gunjur
Forehead – Gimbar
Neck – Guroro
Teeth – Terz
Tongue – Melas
Finger – Tat
Book – Mesaf
Exercise Book – Doftor
Pillow – Taras
Bed Sheet – Alga Livs
Bed – Alga
Wheelchair – Gari
Window – Mescoat
Light – Mabrat
Ceiling – Tara
Cup – Cubaya
Water – Wuha
Cupboard – Comodina
Curtain – Megaraja
Jug – Joog
TV – television
Doll – Ashagulet
Sleep – Engulf
Hello – Salaam
Dehna – I am fine
Sleep – Taneja/Na Tenya
Friend – Godenya
Plane - Aeropla
Watch (Timex) – Sabat
Shoes – Chama
Socks – Kals
Yes – Awhoa
No – Yellem
Shirt – Chemise
Pants – Pants
Tie – Makoleff
Scarf – Matamtem
Hat – Barnetta
Glasses – Menaser
Sunglasses – Yesahai Menaser
Colours
Red – Kaye
Black – Kcoor
White – Nej
Yellow – Bectcha
Green – Aranguadey
Blue – Samayaway
Animals
Lion - Ambassa
Rat – Iyte
Fish – Asa
Chicken/Hen – Doro
Snake – Iravit
Elephant – Zoowon
Donkey – Haya
Monkey – Gingero
Goat – Fiel
Tiger – Nabir
Giraffe – Kajaney
Horse – Ferez
Days of the Week
Sunday - Ehood
Monday - Sanyo
Tuesday – Mak Sanyo
Wednesday - Rob
Thursday - Hamus
Friday - Harb
Saturday - Kidame
Proverbs
Little by Little an Egg Walks – Un Koolal Kus Bakus Bagrua Tedaletch
(This means slow and steady wins the race. Or progress is made slowly and incrementally or something to that effect)
Man is Man – Sow Sownow
(This means that everyone is equal – nobody is better than anyone else)
God Listens to Life’s Words – Kalayot Yaashima
(This means either that God listens to our prayers or God bless you)
God Bless You – Xavier ibarket
Numbers
1 – And
2 - Hulet
3 - Sost
4 - Arat
5 - Amnest
6 - Sidist
7 - Sabat
8 - Simind
9 - Zetaing
10 – Asra/Asir
11 – Asra-And
12 – Asra-Hulet
13 – Asra-Sost
14 – Asra-Arat
15 – Asra-Amnest
16 – Asra-Sidist
17 – Asra-Sabat
18 – Asra-Simind
19 – Asra-Zetaing
20 – Haya
21 – Haya-And (and so on)
30 – Selassa
40 – Arba
50 – Hamsa
60 – Silisa
70 – Saba
80 – Samana
90 – Zetana
100 – Mato
200 – Hulet Mato
1000 – Shi
1000000 – And-Millenie
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Saturday Morning at Menagesha
On Saturday, I woke up bright and early at 5:30 AM to leave for my first shift as a volunteer/English/Music teacher at Menagesha – the Cheshire Services Rehabilitation Facility for children with disabilities. I caught a mini-bus to Meskal Square where I boarded the Cheshire Services employee bus which transports all of the Cheshire employees to Menagesha from Addis and then back to Addis at the end of the shift. Menagesha is about 25 km away from Addis and the bus leaves Meskal Square about 6:45 AM. The bus was really nice, unlike any of the mini-buses or local transport I had taken so far. In fact, it was reminiscent of a Greyhound bus back home with plush seats and head rests. As expected, I fell asleep and awoke 1 hour later to find myself at Menagesha.
The first order of the day was to meet with the teacher at Menagesha who taught the children math and languages during the week. I was told that I would teach my class from 9 to 10:15 AM. For the first hour (i.e. from 8:00 AM to 9:00 AM), I worked in the handicraft room with the children. The children taught me how to make woven bags, wallets, purses etc. One of the children also told me that he would show me how to use the sewing machine next week. I told him that I barely passed sewing in Grade 9 and this was after my sewing teacher had practically made my whole final project for me. The craft room was such a treat and reminded me of the many crafts that my mom taught me when I was a child.
At 9 AM, I started to teach my first English class which included about 40 students ranging in age from 4 years old to about 15 years old. The levels of English comprehension also varied from child to child with some children being quite fluent in English and others wanting to learn the basics. I started off with some easy conversational questions including asking the children to tell the group their names, their hometowns etc. The children are all from outside of Addis and while they are staying at Menagesha, they often do not have much (or any contact) with their family. The children were all very happy to talk about their hometowns and tell me about themselves. I told them a bit about life in Canada which generated a number of questions, especially from the older children – about the weather in Canada, whether the people were nice, what it was like compared to Ethiopia etc. They asked how I traveled from Canada to Ethiopia – by boat or plane?
It was fascinating to hear all of their questions and to engage them in conversation. It was often hard to communicate though given the linguistic barriers and the teacher (Hailu) who teaches the class throughout the week served as a translator. This linguistic barrier is further complicated by the fact that all of the children do not speak Amharic, as they are from different regions of Ethiopia with different linguistic traditions.
Afterwards, I taught them a song that I learned when I was taking music/human values classes in Canada. I wrote the lyrics on the blackboard and the children who could read English automatically lifted their voices in order to serve as beacons for the children who could not read. Eventually, after about 5 or 6 go-arounds on the song, the children were good to go and really enjoyed it. They also learned all of the actions that went with the song. I was so impressed.
They then asked me what type of music I liked and I told them that I really enjoyed Teddy Afro and his song Ababaiyo. The children were thrilled and then one child counted the beat and the entire class burst into a rousing rendition of Ababaiyo complete with the rhythmic clapping beat that is so central to the song. I was so touched and they could tell I was totally enjoying it. It was like a musical where suddenly the entire cast bursts into song! No joke.
After class, the kids were so sweet and wanted to visit with me. It was not the gawking or over-inquisitiveness that I often encounter in Addis when some people are fascinated by the “farenji”, but instead it was a genuine concern and outpouring of love. I ended up playing soccer with some of the kids. Yes – you all read that correctly. I played a sport. I was actually running around on a field kicking a soccer ball. Luckily the traumatic memories of my one year in soccer in Grade 4 did not come flooding back. I then had a chance to play table tennis with one of the kids.
Apparently, word spread that there was this farenji teaching music and English lessons to the children. You see, many of the children at Menagesha are confined to their beds, as they have just underwent surgical procedures that require them to remain on strict bed-rest for a long time. These children heard that I had given a class and asked that I come and visit them also. It was so wonderful to meet these kids. As I mentioned earlier, I was super nervous about what it would be like to teach given the huge linguistic barriers (with me knowing virtually no Amharic).
The children in the recovery wing were super awesome. They could sense that I was not sure how to communicate with them. They pointed to different things around the room and taught me how to say them in Amharic. They taught me how to count to one million in Amharic (not each and every number but the main numbers i.e. 1 to 100, 1000, 10000, 100000, and 1000000). They taught me about colours and animals and furniture and the corresponding words in Amharic. They would repeat words with difficult pronunciations to make sure I understood them correctly. At 11:45 AM, it was time for their lunch and it was time for me to leave to catch my bus back to Addis which departed at noon. The children insisted that I stay and have lunch with them and when I told them I would come back next week, each one of them called me to come close and gave me a huge hug. It took everything in me not to burst into tears (which admittedly did happen on my walk back to the bus).
These children, full of love, laughter and light, have touched my heart in a way that I cannot even begin to express, just by accepting me so unconditionally. On Saturday morning, I traveled to Menagesha hoping to help in some small way. The truth is that I did nothing. These children helped me. They taught me Amharic. They got me to play soccer (I know – shocking!). They got me to laugh. They sang me Ababaiyo. They got me to see that life, with its many obstacles and complexities, is so precious. They are absolutely incredible and I am so grateful to them. Amesaginalo.
The first order of the day was to meet with the teacher at Menagesha who taught the children math and languages during the week. I was told that I would teach my class from 9 to 10:15 AM. For the first hour (i.e. from 8:00 AM to 9:00 AM), I worked in the handicraft room with the children. The children taught me how to make woven bags, wallets, purses etc. One of the children also told me that he would show me how to use the sewing machine next week. I told him that I barely passed sewing in Grade 9 and this was after my sewing teacher had practically made my whole final project for me. The craft room was such a treat and reminded me of the many crafts that my mom taught me when I was a child.
At 9 AM, I started to teach my first English class which included about 40 students ranging in age from 4 years old to about 15 years old. The levels of English comprehension also varied from child to child with some children being quite fluent in English and others wanting to learn the basics. I started off with some easy conversational questions including asking the children to tell the group their names, their hometowns etc. The children are all from outside of Addis and while they are staying at Menagesha, they often do not have much (or any contact) with their family. The children were all very happy to talk about their hometowns and tell me about themselves. I told them a bit about life in Canada which generated a number of questions, especially from the older children – about the weather in Canada, whether the people were nice, what it was like compared to Ethiopia etc. They asked how I traveled from Canada to Ethiopia – by boat or plane?
It was fascinating to hear all of their questions and to engage them in conversation. It was often hard to communicate though given the linguistic barriers and the teacher (Hailu) who teaches the class throughout the week served as a translator. This linguistic barrier is further complicated by the fact that all of the children do not speak Amharic, as they are from different regions of Ethiopia with different linguistic traditions.
Afterwards, I taught them a song that I learned when I was taking music/human values classes in Canada. I wrote the lyrics on the blackboard and the children who could read English automatically lifted their voices in order to serve as beacons for the children who could not read. Eventually, after about 5 or 6 go-arounds on the song, the children were good to go and really enjoyed it. They also learned all of the actions that went with the song. I was so impressed.
They then asked me what type of music I liked and I told them that I really enjoyed Teddy Afro and his song Ababaiyo. The children were thrilled and then one child counted the beat and the entire class burst into a rousing rendition of Ababaiyo complete with the rhythmic clapping beat that is so central to the song. I was so touched and they could tell I was totally enjoying it. It was like a musical where suddenly the entire cast bursts into song! No joke.
After class, the kids were so sweet and wanted to visit with me. It was not the gawking or over-inquisitiveness that I often encounter in Addis when some people are fascinated by the “farenji”, but instead it was a genuine concern and outpouring of love. I ended up playing soccer with some of the kids. Yes – you all read that correctly. I played a sport. I was actually running around on a field kicking a soccer ball. Luckily the traumatic memories of my one year in soccer in Grade 4 did not come flooding back. I then had a chance to play table tennis with one of the kids.
Apparently, word spread that there was this farenji teaching music and English lessons to the children. You see, many of the children at Menagesha are confined to their beds, as they have just underwent surgical procedures that require them to remain on strict bed-rest for a long time. These children heard that I had given a class and asked that I come and visit them also. It was so wonderful to meet these kids. As I mentioned earlier, I was super nervous about what it would be like to teach given the huge linguistic barriers (with me knowing virtually no Amharic).
The children in the recovery wing were super awesome. They could sense that I was not sure how to communicate with them. They pointed to different things around the room and taught me how to say them in Amharic. They taught me how to count to one million in Amharic (not each and every number but the main numbers i.e. 1 to 100, 1000, 10000, 100000, and 1000000). They taught me about colours and animals and furniture and the corresponding words in Amharic. They would repeat words with difficult pronunciations to make sure I understood them correctly. At 11:45 AM, it was time for their lunch and it was time for me to leave to catch my bus back to Addis which departed at noon. The children insisted that I stay and have lunch with them and when I told them I would come back next week, each one of them called me to come close and gave me a huge hug. It took everything in me not to burst into tears (which admittedly did happen on my walk back to the bus).
These children, full of love, laughter and light, have touched my heart in a way that I cannot even begin to express, just by accepting me so unconditionally. On Saturday morning, I traveled to Menagesha hoping to help in some small way. The truth is that I did nothing. These children helped me. They taught me Amharic. They got me to play soccer (I know – shocking!). They got me to laugh. They sang me Ababaiyo. They got me to see that life, with its many obstacles and complexities, is so precious. They are absolutely incredible and I am so grateful to them. Amesaginalo.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
On the Road Again: to Sodere, Nazrit, Debrazait and Mojo
Yesterday marked the Muslim religious celebration of Ramadan. In light of this holy day, all offices and businesses in Addis were closed. Our landlord, Terefe and his wife Yeshi (and their young son Baumlik) decided to take us on a road trip on this holiday to visit some beautiful cities/towns close to Addis.
We went to Sodere where there are hot spring and a large outdoor warm swimming pool. While I did not swim, it was lovely to sit by the pool and enjoy my vanilla and lime ice cream. We also went to visit the hot springs in Sodere and the haunting lake Hora in Nazrit. Lake Hora used to be located by a huge hotel which was recently purchased by an Ethiopian business magnate. However, instead of operating the hotel, the hotel remains closed and the hotel employees have set up a number of small tea stands and make-shift cafes around the lake to raise money and stay employed. Apparently, the owner of the hotel (that is not operational) continues to pay the salaries of these workers operating these tea stands and cafes. The lake is very serene.
We also had lunch at a hotel in Nazrit, stopped at 2 other hotels on the way and had dinner at the Atlas resort near Debrezait. It was a fantastic day and a great way to see the country. Thank you so much Terefe and Yeshi for taking us on this fantastic trip.
Throughout the day, Terefe was on a mission to find me popcorn (because it is my favourite food). Every restaurant that we visited did not have it and he would repeatedly ask where he could get me popcorn. It reminded me a lot of my parents who are much the same. When I was in grade 4, my dad (who is a strict vegetarian) would go from one McDonalds to the next in order to get me all of the Simpsons Happy Meal toys so that I would have the entire set/collection. Terefe and Yeshi have been like parents to us and we are so grateful!
Baumlik was also a source of much joy, laughter and fun yesterday. As a part of his visit to any place, he would go and inspect the washrooms to determine if they are clean. He would only use the washrooms that were really clean. This was so great in that he would give us the review of what to expect in the washrooms at any given place and would tell us which ones to avoid. Knowing my tendency to be a tad bit obsessive about clean facilities, this was very much appreciated.
We went to Sodere where there are hot spring and a large outdoor warm swimming pool. While I did not swim, it was lovely to sit by the pool and enjoy my vanilla and lime ice cream. We also went to visit the hot springs in Sodere and the haunting lake Hora in Nazrit. Lake Hora used to be located by a huge hotel which was recently purchased by an Ethiopian business magnate. However, instead of operating the hotel, the hotel remains closed and the hotel employees have set up a number of small tea stands and make-shift cafes around the lake to raise money and stay employed. Apparently, the owner of the hotel (that is not operational) continues to pay the salaries of these workers operating these tea stands and cafes. The lake is very serene.
We also had lunch at a hotel in Nazrit, stopped at 2 other hotels on the way and had dinner at the Atlas resort near Debrezait. It was a fantastic day and a great way to see the country. Thank you so much Terefe and Yeshi for taking us on this fantastic trip.
Throughout the day, Terefe was on a mission to find me popcorn (because it is my favourite food). Every restaurant that we visited did not have it and he would repeatedly ask where he could get me popcorn. It reminded me a lot of my parents who are much the same. When I was in grade 4, my dad (who is a strict vegetarian) would go from one McDonalds to the next in order to get me all of the Simpsons Happy Meal toys so that I would have the entire set/collection. Terefe and Yeshi have been like parents to us and we are so grateful!
Baumlik was also a source of much joy, laughter and fun yesterday. As a part of his visit to any place, he would go and inspect the washrooms to determine if they are clean. He would only use the washrooms that were really clean. This was so great in that he would give us the review of what to expect in the washrooms at any given place and would tell us which ones to avoid. Knowing my tendency to be a tad bit obsessive about clean facilities, this was very much appreciated.
Saturday Night: To Korea and Amsterdam via Addis
On Saturday night, I went out for dinner with my wonderful friend Susan and her friend Saskia. We went for delicious food at Rainbow Korean restaurant. Typically, I have had trouble finding many vegetarian options at Korean restaurants, but the Rainbow Korean had a plethora of options to choose from. The food was absolutely delicious. Afterwards, we went to this club called Amsterdam for some dancing, which as Saskia informed me is nothing like Amsterdam. Apparently, the owner of the club is an Ethiopian who lives in Amsterdam. He has opened up an Ethiopian restaurant in Amsterdam and opened up this Amsterdam restaurant in Addis.
Marking Maskal – Public Celebrations and Family Gatherings
On Friday, we celebrated Maskal (or the more correctly, the eve of Maskal) in Addis Ababa. My wonderful and warm boss, Ato Derbew Temesgen, invited Eric, Mary and myself to attend the Maskal celebrations in Maskal Square and then to join him and his family in traditional Maskal celebrations at his home.
He picked us up in his blue Volkswagen Beetle and drove us to Maskal Square. We had to park a distance away from the square and walk, as many of the roads were closed and people were traveling on foot to partake in the celebrations. We arrived at the Maskal Square in what was the middle of strong rains meaning that everything was covered in mud. You had to go through a security checkpoint and then you went and sat in the stands around Maskal Square. By way of background, Maskal Square is the central hub in Addis Ababa where many of the minibuses, buses and taxis stop and it is surrounded by tall buildings. It is a major roadway/intersection and is the host site for many major celebrations. Apparently, Emperor Haile Selassie used to sit at the top of Maskal Square in his days as emperor for special functions.
Now, back to the story. The stands were essentially steps made of cement and mud and it was extremely wet and muddy after the rains. Initially, we were allowed to stand, but as the music and dance performance started, all spectators had to sit down. This was the day I decided to wear light coloured pants, meaning that sitting really was not an option. I ended up squatting (thank goodness for yoga and the experience with the Asian toilets) in order to avoid sitting in the mud. We thought that they would light the Torch (major conical torch which symbolizes the pinnacle of Maskal celebrations) but apparently (as we soon found out), this would not be done for another 3 hours. As such, we left the celebrations early in order to make it to Ato Derbew’s house to celebrate Maskal with his family.
Once there, we were treated to an evening of feasting, fun, feasting, dancing, music, and ceremony. Let me just say that the food was fantastic – we had injera, shiro, rice pilaf, oodles of vegetables, a large loaf of delicious bread which Ato Derbew and his wife carved to start off the eating, tons of popcorn, juice, snacks and so much more. We were absolutely stuffed. The food was amazing!
We also lit a Damara (a large pile of sticks/structure, torch) and he lit several firecrackers. We danced/walked around the fire, clapping and laughing the whole time. I completely adore the absolute abandon with which people here celebrate – there is no sense of self-consciousness – just a genuine expression of joy, warmth, elation and celebration. Thank you so much Ato Derbew and family for such a fantastic time! We are so honoured to have been included in your celebration and so thrilled to have experienced a Maskal celebration first-hand. It means the world to us!
He picked us up in his blue Volkswagen Beetle and drove us to Maskal Square. We had to park a distance away from the square and walk, as many of the roads were closed and people were traveling on foot to partake in the celebrations. We arrived at the Maskal Square in what was the middle of strong rains meaning that everything was covered in mud. You had to go through a security checkpoint and then you went and sat in the stands around Maskal Square. By way of background, Maskal Square is the central hub in Addis Ababa where many of the minibuses, buses and taxis stop and it is surrounded by tall buildings. It is a major roadway/intersection and is the host site for many major celebrations. Apparently, Emperor Haile Selassie used to sit at the top of Maskal Square in his days as emperor for special functions.
Now, back to the story. The stands were essentially steps made of cement and mud and it was extremely wet and muddy after the rains. Initially, we were allowed to stand, but as the music and dance performance started, all spectators had to sit down. This was the day I decided to wear light coloured pants, meaning that sitting really was not an option. I ended up squatting (thank goodness for yoga and the experience with the Asian toilets) in order to avoid sitting in the mud. We thought that they would light the Torch (major conical torch which symbolizes the pinnacle of Maskal celebrations) but apparently (as we soon found out), this would not be done for another 3 hours. As such, we left the celebrations early in order to make it to Ato Derbew’s house to celebrate Maskal with his family.
Once there, we were treated to an evening of feasting, fun, feasting, dancing, music, and ceremony. Let me just say that the food was fantastic – we had injera, shiro, rice pilaf, oodles of vegetables, a large loaf of delicious bread which Ato Derbew and his wife carved to start off the eating, tons of popcorn, juice, snacks and so much more. We were absolutely stuffed. The food was amazing!
We also lit a Damara (a large pile of sticks/structure, torch) and he lit several firecrackers. We danced/walked around the fire, clapping and laughing the whole time. I completely adore the absolute abandon with which people here celebrate – there is no sense of self-consciousness – just a genuine expression of joy, warmth, elation and celebration. Thank you so much Ato Derbew and family for such a fantastic time! We are so honoured to have been included in your celebration and so thrilled to have experienced a Maskal celebration first-hand. It means the world to us!
Maskal: An Ethiopian Religious and Cultural Celebration - Origins and Traditions
The following article is a concise description of the Ethiopian religious celebration of Maskal which was observed on Friday and Saturday of last week (September 26 and 27 - Maskal Eve and Maskal Day)
(Link: http://www.ethioembassy.org.uk/articles/articles/focus%20electronic-00/Ermias%20Gulilat%20-%201.htm)
The Celebration of ‘Maskal’ – Finding of the True Cross
BY ERMIAS GULILAT
Maskal is an ancient seasonal rite, which has become an integral part of the Ethiopian Christian Calendar. This national holiday has been celebrated throughout Ethiopia for centuries and is one of the most important annual festivals. The 26th September is the eve of Maskal, a feast commemorating the Finding of the True Cross.
By the middle of the afternoon the celebrations start. Many are seen wearing their brilliant white Ethiopian costumes. The occasion takes place at the Maskal square in Addis Ababa, near the church of Saint Estifanos. A colour procession of priests, deacons and choir boys and girls of Sunday schools wearing embroidered robes walk around a huge pyre, bearing ceremonial crosses and wooden torches decorated with olive leaves. As the sun begins to set, the torch-bearers move forward in unison to set alight the slender pyramid-shaped structure, topped with a cross made from the yellow flowers known as Maskal daisies which are placed on the tallest central pole.
The crowd of spectators are kept at bay while visitors are allowed to enter the inner circle in accordance with the Ethiopians age-old tradition of hostility. The casually dressed tourists form an incongruous contrast as they brandish their cameras, while around them the procession of proud clergy clad in dazzling ceremonial robes chant as they perform this ancient rite.
The origins of the celebration are expressed in the Ethiopian manuscript of parchment. It is said to date back to the discovery of the Byzantine Queen of Helena of the cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified. According to the manuscript, in the 20th year of the reign of her son Constantine, she set off for Jerusalem in search of the ‘life giving cross,’ which she eventually found after many trials and tribulations. She is said to have forced the Jews to reveal the whereabouts of this ‘Honourable Cross’, which allegedly lay under the hill of Golgotha, formed from sweepings, ashes and offal piled on the grave of Jesus Christ.
Helena is said to have found the Cross by lighting incense and following the smoke as it descended to earth. She caused bonfires to be lit on the hills of Palestine which could be seen across the sea by the people of Constantinople.
So how did the rediscovered cross come to Ethiopia? According to Tefut, a massive volume dating from the 15th Century which records the detailed story of the acquisition of a fragment of the True Cross by Ethiopia. The Christian Kings of Ethiopia were often called upon in the early Middle Ages to protect Egyptian Copts against the Egyptian Muslims. In return for this delivery from Muslim persecution, fabulous gifts of precious gold were offered to Ethiopian Emperor Dawit. He rejected these offerings and asked instead for four pieces of the True Cross, which were under the custody of the patriarch of Alexandria. The request was granted and the pieces brought to Ethiopia. They were guarded on the journey by torchbearers and then deposited in a church at Gishen, in northern Wollo dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Rejoicing followed throughout the whole country and the Emperor ordered that the capes of the priests be embroidered with flowers. Since that day, Ethiopian Christians are believed to have commemorated the occasion with flaming torches and huge bonfires.
Emperor Dawit’s fourth son, Zara Yacob, succeeded him as Emperor and, when he was a very old man, dreamt that God ordered him to ‘place the cross upon a cross.’ Zara Yacob spent two years in abstinence, searching in seclusion, and at last discovered a mountain shaped like a cross. There he built the beautiful church of Egziabher Ab, and a fragment of the True Cross was kept within a gold box in the church. The priests of Gishen still safeguard this treasure along with the Tefut which is handwritten in Ge’ez on beautiful parchment.
Today Maskal is a religious and joyful annual social occasion that Christians throughout the country look forward to each year. Both women and men wear their national clothes, while youths boast and compete in fights with sticks. There is also jesting as well as flirting and courting sanctioned by the festival. These days, people return from the capital parade to their houses and bring the torches called Chibbo, to neighbourhood bonfire gatherings. The torchbearers chant as they circle the pyre, the Damera, (literally stack or pile of wooden torches), which are covered with cloth until a priest blesses it. The torchbearers then hurl their flames into the midst of the Dameras, while the gathering watches the blaze light up the night sky.
On the following day people go to the bonfire and make the sign of the cross on their foreheads with the ash.
(Link: http://www.ethioembassy.org.uk/articles/articles/focus%20electronic-00/Ermias%20Gulilat%20-%201.htm)
The Celebration of ‘Maskal’ – Finding of the True Cross
BY ERMIAS GULILAT
Maskal is an ancient seasonal rite, which has become an integral part of the Ethiopian Christian Calendar. This national holiday has been celebrated throughout Ethiopia for centuries and is one of the most important annual festivals. The 26th September is the eve of Maskal, a feast commemorating the Finding of the True Cross.
By the middle of the afternoon the celebrations start. Many are seen wearing their brilliant white Ethiopian costumes. The occasion takes place at the Maskal square in Addis Ababa, near the church of Saint Estifanos. A colour procession of priests, deacons and choir boys and girls of Sunday schools wearing embroidered robes walk around a huge pyre, bearing ceremonial crosses and wooden torches decorated with olive leaves. As the sun begins to set, the torch-bearers move forward in unison to set alight the slender pyramid-shaped structure, topped with a cross made from the yellow flowers known as Maskal daisies which are placed on the tallest central pole.
The crowd of spectators are kept at bay while visitors are allowed to enter the inner circle in accordance with the Ethiopians age-old tradition of hostility. The casually dressed tourists form an incongruous contrast as they brandish their cameras, while around them the procession of proud clergy clad in dazzling ceremonial robes chant as they perform this ancient rite.
The origins of the celebration are expressed in the Ethiopian manuscript of parchment. It is said to date back to the discovery of the Byzantine Queen of Helena of the cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified. According to the manuscript, in the 20th year of the reign of her son Constantine, she set off for Jerusalem in search of the ‘life giving cross,’ which she eventually found after many trials and tribulations. She is said to have forced the Jews to reveal the whereabouts of this ‘Honourable Cross’, which allegedly lay under the hill of Golgotha, formed from sweepings, ashes and offal piled on the grave of Jesus Christ.
Helena is said to have found the Cross by lighting incense and following the smoke as it descended to earth. She caused bonfires to be lit on the hills of Palestine which could be seen across the sea by the people of Constantinople.
So how did the rediscovered cross come to Ethiopia? According to Tefut, a massive volume dating from the 15th Century which records the detailed story of the acquisition of a fragment of the True Cross by Ethiopia. The Christian Kings of Ethiopia were often called upon in the early Middle Ages to protect Egyptian Copts against the Egyptian Muslims. In return for this delivery from Muslim persecution, fabulous gifts of precious gold were offered to Ethiopian Emperor Dawit. He rejected these offerings and asked instead for four pieces of the True Cross, which were under the custody of the patriarch of Alexandria. The request was granted and the pieces brought to Ethiopia. They were guarded on the journey by torchbearers and then deposited in a church at Gishen, in northern Wollo dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Rejoicing followed throughout the whole country and the Emperor ordered that the capes of the priests be embroidered with flowers. Since that day, Ethiopian Christians are believed to have commemorated the occasion with flaming torches and huge bonfires.
Emperor Dawit’s fourth son, Zara Yacob, succeeded him as Emperor and, when he was a very old man, dreamt that God ordered him to ‘place the cross upon a cross.’ Zara Yacob spent two years in abstinence, searching in seclusion, and at last discovered a mountain shaped like a cross. There he built the beautiful church of Egziabher Ab, and a fragment of the True Cross was kept within a gold box in the church. The priests of Gishen still safeguard this treasure along with the Tefut which is handwritten in Ge’ez on beautiful parchment.
Today Maskal is a religious and joyful annual social occasion that Christians throughout the country look forward to each year. Both women and men wear their national clothes, while youths boast and compete in fights with sticks. There is also jesting as well as flirting and courting sanctioned by the festival. These days, people return from the capital parade to their houses and bring the torches called Chibbo, to neighbourhood bonfire gatherings. The torchbearers chant as they circle the pyre, the Damera, (literally stack or pile of wooden torches), which are covered with cloth until a priest blesses it. The torchbearers then hurl their flames into the midst of the Dameras, while the gathering watches the blaze light up the night sky.
On the following day people go to the bonfire and make the sign of the cross on their foreheads with the ash.
Claiming Disability: Identity and Action
During my conversation with the Program Director at Cheshire Services Ethiopia, the topic turned to disability and its particular import to me. I spoke to him about my physical disability (legal blindness) and how it has affected me both as a lawyer and as an individual. We spoke at great length about the lack of official recognition of “low vision” in Ethiopia and the associated ramifications. He informed me that most students who have difficulty with vision in schools are completely ostracized by their teachers who do not understand the concept of low vision and often refuse to provide them with even the minimal level of accommodation. There is this sense of distrust and disbelief. He thought that an official term and designation such as legally blind (which in countries such as Canada attaches when one’s vision score is lower than a certain number) would alleviate many of these problems.
Sadly, this is not an uncommon story – the idea of distrust and malaise towards persons with disabilities. I am not entirely convinced that a formal/legal designation of one’s condition alleviates this troubling state of affairs. Even with the official designation of legally blind, I have often faced inquisitive and doubtful looks from people such as professors, employers and co-workers, questioning whether I truly had vision problems. In fact, one professor told me, “Legally blind? But you can see me just fine – so I have no idea what your problem is/what you are complaining about.” I had to explain my condition further, but it was quite clear that anything I said would be meaningless at that point. What troubles me so much about certain reactions to disability is this notion that people feel comfortable making assumptions about what persons with disabilities can and cannot do and then imposing these assumptions as if they are reality.
In her influential book, My Body Politic: A Memoir, author and activist Simi Linton describes her experiences living with disability and perfectly captures the unwillingness of people to truly accommodate persons with disabilities, instead choosing to make gross assumptions and take unwelcome liberties. Linton aptly captures the failure to provide the requisite accommodations to disabled people in the following terms at page 187 of her book:
The peculiar combination of oversolicitousness and flagrant disregard for the well-being of disabled people had never been more apparent to me than it was that day. People fall all over themselves (and you) to help, but when disabled people state what we need to lead our lives, to live with dignity and comfort, to have a place at the table, we are ignored. The impulse to protect is strong, but not to accommodate.
She shares this invaluable insight in the chapter where she discusses her visit to a fancy Fifth Avenue hotel in New York City and her struggle to find an accessible washroom. When she finally locates the washroom and finds an employee to unlock the door (after making repeated inquiries that went nowhere and were ignored by the staff), she is shocked that the employee who unlocked the door insists on “waiting” for her outside the washroom in case she needed assistance. The employee simply “assumes” that she needs this service. There is no question about asking her about her needs or respecting her assertions of her capability.
Will the new UN Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities bring about a normative change in understanding and approaches to disability issues? Will this new legal framework engender a spirit of understanding, equality and respect for persons with disabilities? Will it at least raise the profile of these issues and make a disability discourse more prevalent and robust? I am not sure, but I am hopeful.
Sadly, this is not an uncommon story – the idea of distrust and malaise towards persons with disabilities. I am not entirely convinced that a formal/legal designation of one’s condition alleviates this troubling state of affairs. Even with the official designation of legally blind, I have often faced inquisitive and doubtful looks from people such as professors, employers and co-workers, questioning whether I truly had vision problems. In fact, one professor told me, “Legally blind? But you can see me just fine – so I have no idea what your problem is/what you are complaining about.” I had to explain my condition further, but it was quite clear that anything I said would be meaningless at that point. What troubles me so much about certain reactions to disability is this notion that people feel comfortable making assumptions about what persons with disabilities can and cannot do and then imposing these assumptions as if they are reality.
In her influential book, My Body Politic: A Memoir, author and activist Simi Linton describes her experiences living with disability and perfectly captures the unwillingness of people to truly accommodate persons with disabilities, instead choosing to make gross assumptions and take unwelcome liberties. Linton aptly captures the failure to provide the requisite accommodations to disabled people in the following terms at page 187 of her book:
The peculiar combination of oversolicitousness and flagrant disregard for the well-being of disabled people had never been more apparent to me than it was that day. People fall all over themselves (and you) to help, but when disabled people state what we need to lead our lives, to live with dignity and comfort, to have a place at the table, we are ignored. The impulse to protect is strong, but not to accommodate.
She shares this invaluable insight in the chapter where she discusses her visit to a fancy Fifth Avenue hotel in New York City and her struggle to find an accessible washroom. When she finally locates the washroom and finds an employee to unlock the door (after making repeated inquiries that went nowhere and were ignored by the staff), she is shocked that the employee who unlocked the door insists on “waiting” for her outside the washroom in case she needed assistance. The employee simply “assumes” that she needs this service. There is no question about asking her about her needs or respecting her assertions of her capability.
Will the new UN Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities bring about a normative change in understanding and approaches to disability issues? Will this new legal framework engender a spirit of understanding, equality and respect for persons with disabilities? Will it at least raise the profile of these issues and make a disability discourse more prevalent and robust? I am not sure, but I am hopeful.
Cheshire Services Ethiopia: Visiting Menagesha
Last week, I visited Menagesha. Menagesha is a rehabilitation facility which helps children during their post-surgery rehabilitation. Most of the children face a permanent physical disability and the center specializes in working with these children. The center includes physical rehabilitation services, a department which builds wheelchairs, prosthetic limbs, and assistive footwear devices. The children are also given daily instruction both in subjects such as English and arithmetic but also in life skills and art. The children typically arrive at Menagesha immediately after their surgery and remain there for a period of 4-6 months for post-surgery rehabilitation.
I toured the facilities, visited some of the children, saw where the wheelchairs were built and where the prosthetic limbs were designed. I also visited the handicraft department which instructs children in the areas of basket-weaving, tapestry work, sewing etc. with a view to helping these children develop some skills/trade that they can use once they leave. Most of the children return to their families, but many children are without family and often return to guardians or other institutions post-recovery.
I was absolutely amazed. Menagesha is located about 25 kilometers outside of Addis and it feels like a beautiful oasis far removed from the pollution, noise and inaccessibility of the city. I don’t think I have had a chance to mention this before, but virtually every building in Addis Ababa is inaccessible for persons with physical disabilities. Speaking with the Program Director of Cheshire Services Ethiopia, I learnt that people and companies who are constructing buildings in Addis never give consideration to making their spaces physically accessible to persons with disabilities. This situation is truly deplorable, further isolating disabled people from participating in the fabric of Ethiopian society – be it employment, education, access to public services. This physical inaccessibility is emblematic of the attitudinal barriers that persons with disabilities continue to face which manifest themselves through individual and systemic discrimination of the most heinous nature. At Menagesha, much thought has been given to accessibility issues with ramps, curb cuts, and wider doorways being prevalent. It truly is a wonderful place.
Starting on Saturday, I will be teaching basic English and music to the children at Menagesha on Saturday mornings. I am looking forward to the prospect of teaching again, as I used to teach children’s classes in Saskatoon on human values through music, theatre, and storytelling. It has been about 6 years since I taught these classes, so it will be a bit of an adjustment jumping back into it. I am really looking forward to doing a project that is completely non-law related. I will keep you posted!
The big issue will be getting to and from Menagesha which as I mentioned is located 25 kilometers from Addis Ababa. I was told that I could catch the employee bus with the Menagesha employees in Addis which leaves from the central hub known as Maskal Square. It will pick us up at 6:45 AM on Saturday and drop us off at 1 PM on Saturday. It should be an adventure. I will keep you posted.
I toured the facilities, visited some of the children, saw where the wheelchairs were built and where the prosthetic limbs were designed. I also visited the handicraft department which instructs children in the areas of basket-weaving, tapestry work, sewing etc. with a view to helping these children develop some skills/trade that they can use once they leave. Most of the children return to their families, but many children are without family and often return to guardians or other institutions post-recovery.
I was absolutely amazed. Menagesha is located about 25 kilometers outside of Addis and it feels like a beautiful oasis far removed from the pollution, noise and inaccessibility of the city. I don’t think I have had a chance to mention this before, but virtually every building in Addis Ababa is inaccessible for persons with physical disabilities. Speaking with the Program Director of Cheshire Services Ethiopia, I learnt that people and companies who are constructing buildings in Addis never give consideration to making their spaces physically accessible to persons with disabilities. This situation is truly deplorable, further isolating disabled people from participating in the fabric of Ethiopian society – be it employment, education, access to public services. This physical inaccessibility is emblematic of the attitudinal barriers that persons with disabilities continue to face which manifest themselves through individual and systemic discrimination of the most heinous nature. At Menagesha, much thought has been given to accessibility issues with ramps, curb cuts, and wider doorways being prevalent. It truly is a wonderful place.
Starting on Saturday, I will be teaching basic English and music to the children at Menagesha on Saturday mornings. I am looking forward to the prospect of teaching again, as I used to teach children’s classes in Saskatoon on human values through music, theatre, and storytelling. It has been about 6 years since I taught these classes, so it will be a bit of an adjustment jumping back into it. I am really looking forward to doing a project that is completely non-law related. I will keep you posted!
The big issue will be getting to and from Menagesha which as I mentioned is located 25 kilometers from Addis Ababa. I was told that I could catch the employee bus with the Menagesha employees in Addis which leaves from the central hub known as Maskal Square. It will pick us up at 6:45 AM on Saturday and drop us off at 1 PM on Saturday. It should be an adventure. I will keep you posted.
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