So have you thought about what you are going to say? I can’t decide between thank you and thank you so much. It’s a significant moment and I want to do it right. If I say just plain thank you it’s kind of casual - like he is handing me a slice of pizza. But thank you so much sounds weird - like I am acknowledging applause after singing a love ballad.
• Paris Gellar, Gilmore Girls
In a few days, I will say farewell to Addis, to Ethiopia, to the EBA, the UNDP and the life to which I have grown accustomed and at certain points of inexplicable lucidity, have grown to love. I cannot say that I have fallen head over heals in love with Addis, because to do so would be hyperbole of the highest order. At times, Addis has frustrated me to the point of tears. However, as certain as I am that Lindsay Lohan will never win an Oscar, I will miss Addis. I will miss our amazing landlord and his family. I will miss my weekly Amharic lessons with Ato Brahan. I will miss volunteering at the UN, my Saturday mornings with my students at Menagesha, and my lovely co-workers and supervisor (Ato Derbew) at the Ethiopian Bar Association. I will miss the fierce pride of the Ethiopian people, their strength and their perseverance in the face of what others would consider insurmountable adversity.
As I sit in my room and write what is likely the final post in this opus of a blog (sorry for being so verbose), the rain falls from the sky in a frantic burst that I have not seen since first stepping off the plane and touching Ethiopian soil back in August. The rain has been non-existent for the past 3 months and for it to return now as I say farewell to Addis, to Ethiopia, to my life here – well, it is like coming full circle.
At that precise moment in August when I took my first gasp of the rain-infused Ethiopian air, I was filled with uncertainty about my decision to come here, to start fresh, to leap from the lap of certainty, comfort and acceptance into the expanse of the unknown, the unclear and the unimaginable. Six months later, as I listen to the rain on the roof, I cannot say that I am any more clear or certain of anything. However, I am changed.
Never again will I look at a plate of food with anything but gratitude. Never again will I take for granted the love of a family and the security and comfort of home. Never again will I forsake friends who through it all have stood by me. Because in these past 6 months, with its intermittent water and its inconveniences, its amazing highs and shattering realities, Ethiopia has given me what life anywhere else in the world would not have thrown my way. Ethiopia has given me perspective.
As Paris Gellar (one of my favourite TV characters of all time) so aptly notes in the quote above, finding the perfect way to say thank you is not an easy task. I am prone to gushing and by no means do I want to come off as a “singer acknowledging applause after singing a love ballad,” but to sign off and take flight without saying thank you to those people who have made my time in Ethiopia amazing would be tantamount to scraping the icing off an Oreo cookie and only eating the biscuit part. OK, sue me, bad analogy – but you get the point.
Over the past few weeks, as this experience has been coming to an end, I have been ruminating as to how I can possibly say thank you to all of people who have made this experience possible, who have made this experience enjoyable and who have made my time in Ethiopia truly unbelievable. To the CBA and CIDA in Canada, Al Cook, Jennifer Khor, Stephanie, Robyn and Asad – thank you for sending me on this journey with your experiences, support and advice to guide my way. Thank you to my friend Helen in New York who put me in touch with her wonderful friend Sehen and her family who have helped me so much! To my supervisors and colleagues at the Ethiopian Bar Association and Cheshire Services Ethiopia Rehabilitation Centre in Menagesha, thank you for teaching me the importance of giving generously with limited resources and of pushing forward in the face of enormous resistance with the inner strength that can only come from the commitment to a laudable purpose. Thank you to my supervisors and colleagues at the UNDP who have shown me the importance of international cooperation, respect and collaboration in the protection and promotion of international human rights. Thank you to my friends from Canada, Ethiopia and all around the world, who are calling Addis home at the moment. You have made me feel so welcome and made the past few months so much fun! Thank you to our landlord and his family for embracing me so openly and welcoming me into their family, making me feel loved and supported.
Thank you finally and ultimately to the city of Addis Ababa (new flower) and to Ethiopia for this absolutely incredible, amazing, tumultuous, frustrating, exhilarating and at times completely devastating 6-month love affair. This experience is beyond definition, beyond categorization and ultimately devoid of any semblance of clarity. It has been a mess of emotions, a mix of memories, a series of triumphs, an equal number of setbacks, and a book of images that I will not soon forget. Indeed, it is a book of images that I will treasure and remember always.
I am forever changed. I am forever humbled. I am forever grateful.
Amesaginalo.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Picture Book
I have uploaded the last of my pictures from Ethiopia on the Picasa web album. The photos can be found at the following link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasannainethiopia
Enjoy!
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasannainethiopia
Enjoy!
Sunday, January 25, 2009
And That’s A Wrap: My Final Amharic Lesson
Here is a list of vocabulary words from my final Amharic lesson with the amazing Ato Brahan! Thank you so much Ato Brahan for all of the time and effort you took in teaching me Amharic. I really do appreciate it!
Amharic -> English
Messmat – to hear
Mezammer – singer
Mauk – to know
Miazz – to catch
Makkom – to stand
Makkratt – to punish
Merdatt – to help
Mellak – to send something
Mashtett – to smell something
Menkatt – to touch her shoulder
Mausett – to take something
Mauratt – to swallow
Memtatt – to bring something
Makofferr – to dig something
Meshekka – to carry
Meshett – to sell something
Makurett – to cut
Mekkakull – to cook
Megananya – to meet
Merrott – to run up
Mamlett – to escape
Mendatt – to drive
Messberr – to break
Messkummett – to put it (e.g. To put money in one’s pocket)
Mettabegg – to keep
Meffratt – to fear
Mettayik – to ask a question
Memnillkutt – to look at
Mekkattey – to follow
Mettattet – to drink
Messak – to laugh
Meshmagttet – to laugh at
Mezgatt – to shut up/to be careful/to shut up
Mezlell – to jump
Maodekk – fallen down
Maonyett – swim
Mattab – to bathe
Mejjimmer – to begin
Mefassam – complete
Mecherress – to finish
Makkoyett – to wait for
Memmelless – come back
Memmlatt – to fill in the blanks
Mennagger – to speak
Mammelless – to answer ?
Mebbadder – to borrow $
Mekkabell – to accept
Maddiss – to renew
Makkatt – to deny
Mamratt – to choose
Yemaimoatt – immortality
Maabijjett – to mend
Mennassatt – to raise up
Dagum Tinsaiye – resurrection
Koubboor – glorious
Beta-Christiane – church
Mezgitt – mosque
Tiyakkinammus – question and answer
Marrak – soup
Guppett – liver
Koollaleet – kidney
Anghit – intestine
Thinnush Anghit – small intestine
Thilluk Anghit – large intestine
Kundu – eyebrow
Ergo – curd/yogurt
Kibblyea – butter
Wor – mouth
Wundlitch – son
Yessaitamnut – mother in law
Wundammet – father in law
Mrat – daughter in law
Ammachi – son in law
Yenniyabbat – my father
These are the final two Amharic songs I learnt from the children at Menagesha:
Mezmoor / Religious Hymn:
Yoha-mid dukkasil
Zarris mennonisha
Desta kanchi – rikko
Azenn – besto bishaa
Baka – chu – taween
Bess-hager lai Yeham Kun-baada
Lejjochem Raan Motto Sedaacho
Nafkawallinow Weeda battacho
Kettagezzutt Hulum Yasfal
Gennis Kiyalf Yaalaffaa
Ababaiyo by Teddy Afro
Ababaiyosh Lem Lem Ababaiyosh Lem Lem Balinjerosh Lem Lem
Gubu-betterra Lem Lem
Inje- Seberre Lem Lem Betain Sesserra Lem Lem
Un Quon Beytenno Yellen yen maatir
Yedejjatiiraalo kokob see-kotterra
O masinko O nagarey O kullarrey
Zeben Nagarey un quon adarassen law adizz amen layellessellalem
Laallamme Laallamme Edayleyalin Zellallemu
Amharic -> English
Messmat – to hear
Mezammer – singer
Mauk – to know
Miazz – to catch
Makkom – to stand
Makkratt – to punish
Merdatt – to help
Mellak – to send something
Mashtett – to smell something
Menkatt – to touch her shoulder
Mausett – to take something
Mauratt – to swallow
Memtatt – to bring something
Makofferr – to dig something
Meshekka – to carry
Meshett – to sell something
Makurett – to cut
Mekkakull – to cook
Megananya – to meet
Merrott – to run up
Mamlett – to escape
Mendatt – to drive
Messberr – to break
Messkummett – to put it (e.g. To put money in one’s pocket)
Mettabegg – to keep
Meffratt – to fear
Mettayik – to ask a question
Memnillkutt – to look at
Mekkattey – to follow
Mettattet – to drink
Messak – to laugh
Meshmagttet – to laugh at
Mezgatt – to shut up/to be careful/to shut up
Mezlell – to jump
Maodekk – fallen down
Maonyett – swim
Mattab – to bathe
Mejjimmer – to begin
Mefassam – complete
Mecherress – to finish
Makkoyett – to wait for
Memmelless – come back
Memmlatt – to fill in the blanks
Mennagger – to speak
Mammelless – to answer ?
Mebbadder – to borrow $
Mekkabell – to accept
Maddiss – to renew
Makkatt – to deny
Mamratt – to choose
Yemaimoatt – immortality
Maabijjett – to mend
Mennassatt – to raise up
Dagum Tinsaiye – resurrection
Koubboor – glorious
Beta-Christiane – church
Mezgitt – mosque
Tiyakkinammus – question and answer
Marrak – soup
Guppett – liver
Koollaleet – kidney
Anghit – intestine
Thinnush Anghit – small intestine
Thilluk Anghit – large intestine
Kundu – eyebrow
Ergo – curd/yogurt
Kibblyea – butter
Wor – mouth
Wundlitch – son
Yessaitamnut – mother in law
Wundammet – father in law
Mrat – daughter in law
Ammachi – son in law
Yenniyabbat – my father
These are the final two Amharic songs I learnt from the children at Menagesha:
Mezmoor / Religious Hymn:
Yoha-mid dukkasil
Zarris mennonisha
Desta kanchi – rikko
Azenn – besto bishaa
Baka – chu – taween
Bess-hager lai Yeham Kun-baada
Lejjochem Raan Motto Sedaacho
Nafkawallinow Weeda battacho
Kettagezzutt Hulum Yasfal
Gennis Kiyalf Yaalaffaa
Ababaiyo by Teddy Afro
Ababaiyosh Lem Lem Ababaiyosh Lem Lem Balinjerosh Lem Lem
Gubu-betterra Lem Lem
Inje- Seberre Lem Lem Betain Sesserra Lem Lem
Un Quon Beytenno Yellen yen maatir
Yedejjatiiraalo kokob see-kotterra
O masinko O nagarey O kullarrey
Zeben Nagarey un quon adarassen law adizz amen layellessellalem
Laallamme Laallamme Edayleyalin Zellallemu
Keekoo Designs: A Spectacular Shopping Experience
I would be remiss if I signed off from the blog without giving a quick plug to my favourite boutique in Addis Ababa: Keekoo Designs. Keekoo Designs is a company owned by a local Ethiopian entrepreneur and specializes in designing scarves, gaabis (traditional Ethiopian blankets), shawls, and ponchos of the highest quality in a myriad of colours, fabrics, and textures. Keekoo is the epitome of the perfect shopping experience: amazing location, wonderful staff, exquisite quality merchandise and the willingness to work closely with the customer to design tailor-made items! I bought a few blankets, shawls and scarves for my family in India and the owner invited me to design the goods that she would then custom make (at the very same price) for me to take to my family in India!
I picked up the items yesterday and they are amazing! I highly recommend that you visit Keekoo Designs when you are in Addis. I have heard that the owner might soon set up a website and take online orders with shipping / delivery to locales around the world. I highly recommend Keekoo for innovative, quality products - Simply superb!
I picked up the items yesterday and they are amazing! I highly recommend that you visit Keekoo Designs when you are in Addis. I have heard that the owner might soon set up a website and take online orders with shipping / delivery to locales around the world. I highly recommend Keekoo for innovative, quality products - Simply superb!
Cherishing Cheshire
Saturday was my last day teaching English and music to the children at the Menagesha Rehabilitation Center of Cheshire Services Ethiopia. I was expecting this final day to be quite emotional, because over the past 5 months, the children at Menagesha have really opened my eyes and heart to the things in life that are truly important, constant, and often easily overlooked. I boarded the employee bus for the final time and we zipped through Addis picking up the other employees before hitting the road connecting the activity of Addis to the serenity and untouched wonder of rural Ethiopia.
I spent my final morning with the children teaching them some songs, learning a few more words in Amharic, learning a religious song (mezmoor) and Teddy Afro’s wildly popular anthem Ababaiyo, weaving a basket with two of my students, playing a bit of soccer, taking some pictures and celebrating with my co-workers (the other teacher and social workers working at Menagesha). The teachers and children presented me with a traditional popcorn basket that the children made themselves!
As the minutes approached for me to leave, the children and I came to the joint realization that this would be my last visit to them on Saturdays. As I said my final farewells and gave them all the customary Ethiopian handshake and shoulder bump, a few of my students gave me a huge hug and told me they would miss me very much. I must admit, that I shed a few tears that day, because you see, I have cherished my Saturday mornings with the children at Cheshire – singing, laughing and learning so much about life and the indomitable power of the human spirit. While on paper I am their teacher, these children are my heroes, my mentors and my inspiration to strive to be better, because at this young age, they have epitomized the life lessons that most of us strive for a lifetime to learn. I only hope that I can one day share the insight, sensitivity, compassion and unconditional love that they have given me over the past five months. Thank you so much.
I spent my final morning with the children teaching them some songs, learning a few more words in Amharic, learning a religious song (mezmoor) and Teddy Afro’s wildly popular anthem Ababaiyo, weaving a basket with two of my students, playing a bit of soccer, taking some pictures and celebrating with my co-workers (the other teacher and social workers working at Menagesha). The teachers and children presented me with a traditional popcorn basket that the children made themselves!
As the minutes approached for me to leave, the children and I came to the joint realization that this would be my last visit to them on Saturdays. As I said my final farewells and gave them all the customary Ethiopian handshake and shoulder bump, a few of my students gave me a huge hug and told me they would miss me very much. I must admit, that I shed a few tears that day, because you see, I have cherished my Saturday mornings with the children at Cheshire – singing, laughing and learning so much about life and the indomitable power of the human spirit. While on paper I am their teacher, these children are my heroes, my mentors and my inspiration to strive to be better, because at this young age, they have epitomized the life lessons that most of us strive for a lifetime to learn. I only hope that I can one day share the insight, sensitivity, compassion and unconditional love that they have given me over the past five months. Thank you so much.
St. George Cathedral and Museum – Piazza
On Friday, I went with my Amharic teacher and colleague, Ato Brahan, to visit St. George Cathedral and Museum in the Piazza area of Addis Ababa. Ato Brahan has been describing the importance of the St. George Cathedral to me for a number of weeks and said that we must visit before I leave Addis.
Emperor Menelik commissioned the construction of the present-day Cathedral to commemorate his defeat of the Italian forces in Adwa in 1896 and to replace the thatched roof structure that stood in its place. He dedicated the church to St. George, Ethiopia’s patron saint. The Cathedral was completed with the assistance of Indian, Armenian and Greek architects in 1911. In fact, Emperor Haile Selassie’s coronation took place within St. George’s Cathedral in 1930. The church is constructed in an octagonal shape and boasts vivid paintings on the interior walls by famous artists such as Afewerk Tekle. Our tour guide shared with us that typically, in the paintings, the four gospels are represented in the following manner: Matthew – man, Mark – lion, Luke – cow, and John – Eagle.
Next door to the Cathedral is the St. George Museum which includes a vast collection of religious and regal artifacts including a range of ceremonial crosses, scrolls, ceremonial umbrellas and the coronation robes, crowns, jewels and thrones of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife Queen / Empress Mennon. Thank you Ato Brahan for taking me to St. George’s Cathedral!
[Source of Some Background Information and Quotes: Lonely Planet Ethiopia and Eritrea – 3rd Edition – Published November 2006]
Emperor Menelik commissioned the construction of the present-day Cathedral to commemorate his defeat of the Italian forces in Adwa in 1896 and to replace the thatched roof structure that stood in its place. He dedicated the church to St. George, Ethiopia’s patron saint. The Cathedral was completed with the assistance of Indian, Armenian and Greek architects in 1911. In fact, Emperor Haile Selassie’s coronation took place within St. George’s Cathedral in 1930. The church is constructed in an octagonal shape and boasts vivid paintings on the interior walls by famous artists such as Afewerk Tekle. Our tour guide shared with us that typically, in the paintings, the four gospels are represented in the following manner: Matthew – man, Mark – lion, Luke – cow, and John – Eagle.
Next door to the Cathedral is the St. George Museum which includes a vast collection of religious and regal artifacts including a range of ceremonial crosses, scrolls, ceremonial umbrellas and the coronation robes, crowns, jewels and thrones of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife Queen / Empress Mennon. Thank you Ato Brahan for taking me to St. George’s Cathedral!
[Source of Some Background Information and Quotes: Lonely Planet Ethiopia and Eritrea – 3rd Edition – Published November 2006]
The Addis Ababa Museum Crawl
On Wednesday, after work, I went on what I can only call a museum crawl. Usually, people go on pub crawls where they travel from bar to bar enjoying the beverages, the sites and the music. But not me. Not today. Today, I jumped on a series of mini-buses and traveled from one museum to the next – actually only 2 in total – but in a row – so in my universe that constitutes a museum crawl - albeit a somewhat truncated one. I know - I am a geek.
First, I visited the National Museum of Ethiopia. The National Museum is spread out over four floors and houses a number of paintings, artwork, photographs, traditional attire, and tools. While the collection has some beautiful items and very interesting paintings, it was quite difficult to navigate the upper floors, because several of the works were not labeled and you had no idea what you were looking at! One of the major pieces on display on the main floor was Emperor Haile Selassie’s huge carved wooden throne.
However, the basement contained a very impressive paleontology exhibit which has various interactive displays and two remarkable casts of Lucy. Lucy is the name of a “fossilized hominid discovered in 1974” in a dried up lake in Hadar (northeast Ethiopia). One of the exhibits shows Lucy standing up and the other shows her lying down. The “stand up” exhibit is only about 3-4 feet tall and demonstrates that the hominid walked on two feet nearly 3.2 million years ago. Lucy is the “oldest and most complete hominid ever found.”
The actual Lucy fossils (upon which the casts of Lucy are based) are preserved in the basement of the museum. Lucy was named after the famous Beatles’ song, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds, which was playing in the archaeologist’s camp when Lucy was found. However, Ethiopians prefer to call her by her Ethiopian name: Dinkanesh.
Second, I visited the Ethnological Museum located on the campus of Addis Ababa University and housed in one of the first palaces of Emperor Haile Selassie. After Emperor Selassie donated the palace to establish the University, he moved into the National Palace which now serves as the official residence of the President of Ethiopia. The Ethnological museum is much more easy to navigate than the National Museum and contains a number of interesting exhibits and galleries. There are the traditional robes of Queen Taitu, a stamp and currency collection, a collection of Ethiopian musical instruments (drums, flutes, xylophones, masinko etc.), the military uniforms and ceremonial attire of Emperor Haile Selassie, pendants, crosses / processional crosses, and traditional religious paintings. There were also a number of rooms preserved including the bedroom, the bathroom and the changing room of Emperor Haile Selassie, with the original furnishings. There was also an exhibit devoted to traditional “head-rests” which are artifacts made of wood that include a pedestal, a curved portion for the head and a base. These headrests were used in various regions of Ethiopia by women (instead of pillows) to preserve their hairstyles while they were sleeping. The headrests are really interesting but appear super uncomfortable.
[Source of Some Background Information and Quotes: Lonely Planet Ethiopia and Eritrea – 3rd Edition – Published November 2006]
First, I visited the National Museum of Ethiopia. The National Museum is spread out over four floors and houses a number of paintings, artwork, photographs, traditional attire, and tools. While the collection has some beautiful items and very interesting paintings, it was quite difficult to navigate the upper floors, because several of the works were not labeled and you had no idea what you were looking at! One of the major pieces on display on the main floor was Emperor Haile Selassie’s huge carved wooden throne.
However, the basement contained a very impressive paleontology exhibit which has various interactive displays and two remarkable casts of Lucy. Lucy is the name of a “fossilized hominid discovered in 1974” in a dried up lake in Hadar (northeast Ethiopia). One of the exhibits shows Lucy standing up and the other shows her lying down. The “stand up” exhibit is only about 3-4 feet tall and demonstrates that the hominid walked on two feet nearly 3.2 million years ago. Lucy is the “oldest and most complete hominid ever found.”
The actual Lucy fossils (upon which the casts of Lucy are based) are preserved in the basement of the museum. Lucy was named after the famous Beatles’ song, Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds, which was playing in the archaeologist’s camp when Lucy was found. However, Ethiopians prefer to call her by her Ethiopian name: Dinkanesh.
Second, I visited the Ethnological Museum located on the campus of Addis Ababa University and housed in one of the first palaces of Emperor Haile Selassie. After Emperor Selassie donated the palace to establish the University, he moved into the National Palace which now serves as the official residence of the President of Ethiopia. The Ethnological museum is much more easy to navigate than the National Museum and contains a number of interesting exhibits and galleries. There are the traditional robes of Queen Taitu, a stamp and currency collection, a collection of Ethiopian musical instruments (drums, flutes, xylophones, masinko etc.), the military uniforms and ceremonial attire of Emperor Haile Selassie, pendants, crosses / processional crosses, and traditional religious paintings. There were also a number of rooms preserved including the bedroom, the bathroom and the changing room of Emperor Haile Selassie, with the original furnishings. There was also an exhibit devoted to traditional “head-rests” which are artifacts made of wood that include a pedestal, a curved portion for the head and a base. These headrests were used in various regions of Ethiopia by women (instead of pillows) to preserve their hairstyles while they were sleeping. The headrests are really interesting but appear super uncomfortable.
[Source of Some Background Information and Quotes: Lonely Planet Ethiopia and Eritrea – 3rd Edition – Published November 2006]
Organizations Inspired by Love and Devoted to Service: Wusate Birhan, Zema Setoch, and Hope Enterprises
This past week, I had the chance to visit a number of local non-governmental organizations/charitable organizations in Addis Ababa working on a range of issues including disability rights, women’s rights, children’s rights and poverty and education issues. Friends in Saskatchewan gave me money to donate to various local Ethiopian charities and organizations that work on certain issues. I wanted to highlight the three organizations I visited, because they do such varied and important work with such limited resources. Truly inspirational!
1) The Wusate Birhan Abera Music Training Center for the Visually Impaired: Wusate Birhan is a local NGO that was established in 2003 in order to provide opportunities for visually impaired or blind high school graduates to receive training in music as a vocation. The only other music college in Ethiopia is government-funded and does not provide opportunities for visually impaired students. The center provides full music education in order to enable students to become professional musicians or to become music teachers. It currently has 12 students and provides them with courses, instruction, use of facilities and musical instruments, teachers/instructors/tutors, and snacks/meals while at school. Wusate means “inner vision” in Amharic and the Center is accredited by the Addis Ababa Education Bureau (through the Ministry of Education) and provides courses and training in the 3 – year diploma program in the following areas:
• Modern music instruments
o Piano, Keyboard, Guitar, Saxophone, Drums
• Traditional music instruments
o Krar, Masinko, and Local Drum
• Foundational Courses
o Computers, Management, Literature and Language, Cultural Policy, Teaching Methodology, Special Needs Education, and Cultural Policy
To date, 15 students have graduated and gone on to teach music in schools across the country and others have gone on to careers as professional, performing musicians. While I was there, the Director gave me a tour of the Center and the students performed 3 traditional musical selections for me. It was such an amazing experience!
2) Zema Setoch Lefitih (ZML): ZML is a “not for profit, indigenous women empowerment non-governmental organization set up in 1997 to serve the urban and rural communities in Ethiopia.” The vision for the organization is to create a society of equal opportunity for both women and men and it accomplishes this vision through a range of projects including advocacy initiatives, education and training for women and girls, providing micro-credit financing for the development of a poverty-free society, and creation of awareness on HIV and AIDS. The organization a) provides financial and non-financial assistance to women to increase their standard of living, develop their local businesses and generate employment, b) improves the food security situation in urban/rural communities, c) supports education and training initiatives, and d) provides water and sanitation services to communities that do not have access to these basic services. The organization has also established a center for victims of sexual assault and domestic violence!
Zema Setoch is a truly one of a kind, fantastic local organization that actively serves the local populace with such grace, commitment, compassion and dedication. Its emphasis on empowerment of women and girls and its consideration of the range of issues and complexities that Ethiopian women face from access to water and sanitation issues to domestic violence is truly impressive! Thank you Zema Setoch for all that you do! (Website: www.zemasetoch.org)
3) Hope Enterprises: I was familiar with Hope Enterprises before even coming to Addis Ababa. You see, the Lonely Planet Travel Guide has a description of the organization and the innovative projects it has undertaken to alleviate child poverty in Ethiopia. Hope Enterprises was established in 1971 as the first local organization devoted to a) helping the needy attain self-sufficiency and b) ending endemic poverty. Hope Enterprises has organized its work according to “the Ladders of Hope” philosophy which organize the basic needs of life along the following continuum: basic care, education, competence, sufficiency, and value-maturity.
In terms of basic care, Hope Enterprises provides breakfast for street children, day care for abandoned children, stipends for students attending college or vocational training and a fully operational soup kitchen which serves thousands of people daily. In terms of education, HOPE runs its own schools in all regions of Ethiopia (encompassing pre-school to high school). HOPE also offers community-based educational support programs that sponsor school expenses in local schools for students who are too far away from Hope Schools. Hope has also organized informal schooling at its center in Addis for children who are simply unable to attend school for a number of reasons. In terms of competence, Hope Enterprises constantly evaluates and upgrades its curriculum in the schools and vocational training centers to encompass a broad range of areas including construction services, hotel management, carpentry, cosmetology, computer literacy and agriculture among others. In terms of sufficiency, Hope Enterprises provides people with job mediation, career counseling and business development services, by helping to place graduates and young people with organizations that can use their skills, knowledge and expertise. Finally, in terms of value-maturity, Hope Enterprises provides peer counseling and group counseling services, peer support networks, leadership and training avenues etc.
One of the most innovative programs designed by Hope Enterprises is their meal voucher program. Cognizant of the reality of the many people beg for money and food in Ethiopia, Hope Enterprises sells meal tickets (8 meal tickets for 4 Ethiopian Birr) which people can buy and give to the street children and beggars who are begging for food/money. These people can then redeem these tickets for a nourishing, hearty meal at the Hope Center. Children are served in the mornings and adults are served at lunch time under this program. To put this in perspective, for the low cost 50 Ethiopian cents (i.e. 5 cents Canadian), you can provide a person with a full and nourishing meal! I had a chance to volunteer with this group during one of their lunch hours recently by folding injera, doling out some Ethiopian stew and stacking plates. The staff is absolutely amazing and really welcoming and the volunteer corps includes young people from all over the world! The Center is truly inspirational and hundreds of people were provided with this hot, nourishing meal.
Hope Enterprises is a pioneer in terms of Ethiopian NGOs working to alleviate poverty and improve the strength, vibrancy and self-sufficiency of Ethiopia’s most marginalized communities!
1) The Wusate Birhan Abera Music Training Center for the Visually Impaired: Wusate Birhan is a local NGO that was established in 2003 in order to provide opportunities for visually impaired or blind high school graduates to receive training in music as a vocation. The only other music college in Ethiopia is government-funded and does not provide opportunities for visually impaired students. The center provides full music education in order to enable students to become professional musicians or to become music teachers. It currently has 12 students and provides them with courses, instruction, use of facilities and musical instruments, teachers/instructors/tutors, and snacks/meals while at school. Wusate means “inner vision” in Amharic and the Center is accredited by the Addis Ababa Education Bureau (through the Ministry of Education) and provides courses and training in the 3 – year diploma program in the following areas:
• Modern music instruments
o Piano, Keyboard, Guitar, Saxophone, Drums
• Traditional music instruments
o Krar, Masinko, and Local Drum
• Foundational Courses
o Computers, Management, Literature and Language, Cultural Policy, Teaching Methodology, Special Needs Education, and Cultural Policy
To date, 15 students have graduated and gone on to teach music in schools across the country and others have gone on to careers as professional, performing musicians. While I was there, the Director gave me a tour of the Center and the students performed 3 traditional musical selections for me. It was such an amazing experience!
2) Zema Setoch Lefitih (ZML): ZML is a “not for profit, indigenous women empowerment non-governmental organization set up in 1997 to serve the urban and rural communities in Ethiopia.” The vision for the organization is to create a society of equal opportunity for both women and men and it accomplishes this vision through a range of projects including advocacy initiatives, education and training for women and girls, providing micro-credit financing for the development of a poverty-free society, and creation of awareness on HIV and AIDS. The organization a) provides financial and non-financial assistance to women to increase their standard of living, develop their local businesses and generate employment, b) improves the food security situation in urban/rural communities, c) supports education and training initiatives, and d) provides water and sanitation services to communities that do not have access to these basic services. The organization has also established a center for victims of sexual assault and domestic violence!
Zema Setoch is a truly one of a kind, fantastic local organization that actively serves the local populace with such grace, commitment, compassion and dedication. Its emphasis on empowerment of women and girls and its consideration of the range of issues and complexities that Ethiopian women face from access to water and sanitation issues to domestic violence is truly impressive! Thank you Zema Setoch for all that you do! (Website: www.zemasetoch.org)
3) Hope Enterprises: I was familiar with Hope Enterprises before even coming to Addis Ababa. You see, the Lonely Planet Travel Guide has a description of the organization and the innovative projects it has undertaken to alleviate child poverty in Ethiopia. Hope Enterprises was established in 1971 as the first local organization devoted to a) helping the needy attain self-sufficiency and b) ending endemic poverty. Hope Enterprises has organized its work according to “the Ladders of Hope” philosophy which organize the basic needs of life along the following continuum: basic care, education, competence, sufficiency, and value-maturity.
In terms of basic care, Hope Enterprises provides breakfast for street children, day care for abandoned children, stipends for students attending college or vocational training and a fully operational soup kitchen which serves thousands of people daily. In terms of education, HOPE runs its own schools in all regions of Ethiopia (encompassing pre-school to high school). HOPE also offers community-based educational support programs that sponsor school expenses in local schools for students who are too far away from Hope Schools. Hope has also organized informal schooling at its center in Addis for children who are simply unable to attend school for a number of reasons. In terms of competence, Hope Enterprises constantly evaluates and upgrades its curriculum in the schools and vocational training centers to encompass a broad range of areas including construction services, hotel management, carpentry, cosmetology, computer literacy and agriculture among others. In terms of sufficiency, Hope Enterprises provides people with job mediation, career counseling and business development services, by helping to place graduates and young people with organizations that can use their skills, knowledge and expertise. Finally, in terms of value-maturity, Hope Enterprises provides peer counseling and group counseling services, peer support networks, leadership and training avenues etc.
One of the most innovative programs designed by Hope Enterprises is their meal voucher program. Cognizant of the reality of the many people beg for money and food in Ethiopia, Hope Enterprises sells meal tickets (8 meal tickets for 4 Ethiopian Birr) which people can buy and give to the street children and beggars who are begging for food/money. These people can then redeem these tickets for a nourishing, hearty meal at the Hope Center. Children are served in the mornings and adults are served at lunch time under this program. To put this in perspective, for the low cost 50 Ethiopian cents (i.e. 5 cents Canadian), you can provide a person with a full and nourishing meal! I had a chance to volunteer with this group during one of their lunch hours recently by folding injera, doling out some Ethiopian stew and stacking plates. The staff is absolutely amazing and really welcoming and the volunteer corps includes young people from all over the world! The Center is truly inspirational and hundreds of people were provided with this hot, nourishing meal.
Hope Enterprises is a pioneer in terms of Ethiopian NGOs working to alleviate poverty and improve the strength, vibrancy and self-sufficiency of Ethiopia’s most marginalized communities!
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Consistent with the Constitution: Whatchu-talkin'-bout-willis?
This post is for all of the law geeks who are reading! A few months ago, I learnt from my boss that in Ethiopia, laws or decisions of governmental institutions cannot be constitutionally challenged in Ethiopian courts. As soon as there is a constitutional question, the courts will refuse to deal with it and will instead send the matter on to the Constitutional Inquiry Commission, a body established and staffed by the Ethiopian Government.
The Constitutional Inquiry Commission considers the matter and proposes a decision to the House of the Federation (one of the houses of Parliament in Ethiopia), with the final decision resting with the House of the Federation. Essentially, the House of the Federation makes all decisions relating to the interpretation, scope, application and development of the Ethiopian Constitution and constitutional principles. As such, jurisprudence in the area of constitutional law is virtually non-existent in Ethiopia. Furthermore, the concept of judicial review does not exist in Ethiopia.
The Constitutional Inquiry Commission considers the matter and proposes a decision to the House of the Federation (one of the houses of Parliament in Ethiopia), with the final decision resting with the House of the Federation. Essentially, the House of the Federation makes all decisions relating to the interpretation, scope, application and development of the Ethiopian Constitution and constitutional principles. As such, jurisprudence in the area of constitutional law is virtually non-existent in Ethiopia. Furthermore, the concept of judicial review does not exist in Ethiopia.
Again and Again in Amharic
Well, it is time for another post of Amharic words and phrases. As I mentioned earlier, I am taking Amharic lessons twice per week over lunch. I am still unable to gauge my progress, but I am able to communicate in stores and negotiate with the taxi drivers here – the essentials really. Enjoy!
Amharic -> English
Timkat – Baptism/Epiphany
Gunna – Christmas
Gehad – Eve of Ephiphany
Fasika – Easter
Dance – dance
Nightclub – nightclub
Cirq – marriage / wedding
Beta mengist – the Government Palace
Mesquet – Mosque
Chilluot – Court
Wund Tamaree – Student (masculine)
Sayt Tamaree – Student (feminine)
Sost Amet – 3 years old
Saytlitch – daughter
Arroget – Old woman
Sahai – sun
Wundlitch – son
Aleka – Director
Egat Sheim – Account Manager
Gunzabeyaj – Treasurer
Leeyusahaafi – Executive Secretary
Budget Akanabebaari – Project Officer
Yehig-Isow – Lawyer
Gimut – assumption
Terat – story
Derassi – author/writer of books
Etchuby – Exchange/purchase
Mizan – to balance
Sheefan – cover
Gunbatta – to build something up (administration)
Ansar – Opposite / across
Alaamah – aim / objective
Hayamanoat – religion
Yimare – God Bless You
Yekarta – Excuse me (after sneeze)
Matacore – concentrate/focus
Hodabaasha – crying/depressed
Hiwot – life
Nebs – soul/spirit
Merabaraam – everyone works together to save someone
Maytum – stamp
Bahari – condition / health
Lib – Heart
Yelib Awkah – good
Yesal Girdotch – Eclipse / clouds covering the sun
Esaat – fire
Wuha – water
Chow – salt
Berbere – Chilli
Mitmittaa – hot / spicy
Mar – honey
Beehair – country
Mihshit – night
Nigat – morning
Corrat – true
Meshesh – go away / run away
Eminet – believing
Mayat Maamennow – Seeing is Believing
Benmakaakaaraachen Leeyounaatellum – There is no difference between us
Merzenyaa – poisonous
Ebab – snake
Asa – fish
Bek – sheep
Kurraleet – frog
Ennat – mother
Abbat – father
Uncle – agoat
Aunt – Akust
Zinnennyaa – famous man
Astarguoun – translator / interpreter
Simnabello – listen to me
Desquorie – lecturer
Koorenyaa – fraud
Bozeni – unemployed, no work, no money
Baltett – Old Woman
Aroghee – Old Man
Addistoolitt – New generation
Addis – new
Ababay – flower
Walakar – backwards
Fikrenya – best friend
Yey telatt yey telatt yene wodacheenow – the enemy of my enemy is my friend
Gehtaami – poet
Deraasii – author of books
Inabella – shameless
Ine-outta – shameless (not afraid to take out one’s eyes)
Fillagoat – desire
Zefan – music
Tamer – miracle
Menafik – a man who doubts everything
Freneggar – issue
Frenneggar mendenno – what is the issue?
Tar – enemy (masculine)
Tellatt – enemy (feminine)
Siranegger – the source / the source of the issue
Esskisstaa – dancing
Howriyeatt – apostles/disciples/students of Jesus Christ
Kabella Hailatagenyo – Energy means power
Yemoat Devidabi – letter of death/death notice
Kahin – Priest
Dingue – virgin
Fikre-Scaamaakaabir – Love until death do us part
Yenva Messaaf – Reading a book
Yegitim Messaaf – Book of Poetry
Yesra – Alem – work world
Tuuruu saafee – good secretary/author
Yegittim Wodaater – Writing Competition/Dueling Poets/authors
Methadeg – Rescue / Help people
Mellamen – to beg
Meggumgum – to fire an employee
Matain – smartly dressed/sharp
Memmarek – God Bless You
Megibya – to enter / come inside
Gibba gibba – come on in
Memmariya – order from the government/message from the government
Ushabekadeddo Ghiibeegaaber (proverb) – someone else shares your secrets with others
Gobez tamari – good/intelligent student
Saanuff tamari – dull/stupid student
Yeygaara – common use (water, air – for the use of everyone)
Wongaara – something is meaningless in your mind
Negarit Gazetta – Government Publication – (all the laws, regulations etc. are passed here)
Awaj – Statement by the Prime Minister on a new law and associated punishments/sanctions
Wohtaat – young
Magazin – store
Aza – wund – he is an old man, poor man – help him out
Yehwund Aleeetchaa – Insult – shy man – afraid – runs away
Wuhawullett – contaminated water/polluted water
Ayerwullett – soldiers
Mennannyaa – INSULT – dirty
Goalmassah – Middleman
Berrari Worrokatt – delivering a message – pass it on to him
Elaama – aim
Alaama – idea
Ahmsaall – examination
Negarrafaj – client of a lawyer
Bettazammet – family
Libbolet – straight from the heart, fiction
Drama – film, play
Gessabariyaat – characteristics
Towaneye – actor
Gitchitt – crash
Kokabb – star
Berrado – Ice
Melass – tongue
Kunferr – lips
Jorro – ears
Amett Afesh – I don’t have a good life, miserable (you don’t get anything from ashes)
Maatenya – professional
Zinna – famous
Wastinna – guarantee
Jungoorgoon – black and white
Tirrtirr – doubt
Menkaff – complain, I don’t accept your explanation
Erikennaselam – peace agreement
Tarik – history
Gihat – clear
Sost-kan wuhat yellam – We have had no water for 3 days
Yell-bowka – a man who knows people’s secrets
Gung – fat
Yesra-libs – garb
Bado-goat-ah – gap
Barreau – empty
Yat-kent-boatah – garden
Atkilltenya – gardener
Korratoah – gash
Fennakatta – gash
Akatattah – gasp
Benzil – gasoline
Benzil madea – gas station
Workutatt – gastric
Burr – gate
Burrenya – gatekeeper
Libs – garment
Megibya – gatekeeper
Yemmadafiyelle – gazelle
Moot – dead
Denkoro – deaf
Denkoro didda – deaf and mute
Adenakorra – deafen
Chelamma – darkness
Woodinnakirk – darling
Takamma – darn
Dinnusai – a dash of _______
Lettedar edarasam – marriageable
Kiltum – bone marrow
Kontrat – lease
Fitsum – absolutely
Coda coat – leather coat
Amharic -> English
Timkat – Baptism/Epiphany
Gunna – Christmas
Gehad – Eve of Ephiphany
Fasika – Easter
Dance – dance
Nightclub – nightclub
Cirq – marriage / wedding
Beta mengist – the Government Palace
Mesquet – Mosque
Chilluot – Court
Wund Tamaree – Student (masculine)
Sayt Tamaree – Student (feminine)
Sost Amet – 3 years old
Saytlitch – daughter
Arroget – Old woman
Sahai – sun
Wundlitch – son
Aleka – Director
Egat Sheim – Account Manager
Gunzabeyaj – Treasurer
Leeyusahaafi – Executive Secretary
Budget Akanabebaari – Project Officer
Yehig-Isow – Lawyer
Gimut – assumption
Terat – story
Derassi – author/writer of books
Etchuby – Exchange/purchase
Mizan – to balance
Sheefan – cover
Gunbatta – to build something up (administration)
Ansar – Opposite / across
Alaamah – aim / objective
Hayamanoat – religion
Yimare – God Bless You
Yekarta – Excuse me (after sneeze)
Matacore – concentrate/focus
Hodabaasha – crying/depressed
Hiwot – life
Nebs – soul/spirit
Merabaraam – everyone works together to save someone
Maytum – stamp
Bahari – condition / health
Lib – Heart
Yelib Awkah – good
Yesal Girdotch – Eclipse / clouds covering the sun
Esaat – fire
Wuha – water
Chow – salt
Berbere – Chilli
Mitmittaa – hot / spicy
Mar – honey
Beehair – country
Mihshit – night
Nigat – morning
Corrat – true
Meshesh – go away / run away
Eminet – believing
Mayat Maamennow – Seeing is Believing
Benmakaakaaraachen Leeyounaatellum – There is no difference between us
Merzenyaa – poisonous
Ebab – snake
Asa – fish
Bek – sheep
Kurraleet – frog
Ennat – mother
Abbat – father
Uncle – agoat
Aunt – Akust
Zinnennyaa – famous man
Astarguoun – translator / interpreter
Simnabello – listen to me
Desquorie – lecturer
Koorenyaa – fraud
Bozeni – unemployed, no work, no money
Baltett – Old Woman
Aroghee – Old Man
Addistoolitt – New generation
Addis – new
Ababay – flower
Walakar – backwards
Fikrenya – best friend
Yey telatt yey telatt yene wodacheenow – the enemy of my enemy is my friend
Gehtaami – poet
Deraasii – author of books
Inabella – shameless
Ine-outta – shameless (not afraid to take out one’s eyes)
Fillagoat – desire
Zefan – music
Tamer – miracle
Menafik – a man who doubts everything
Freneggar – issue
Frenneggar mendenno – what is the issue?
Tar – enemy (masculine)
Tellatt – enemy (feminine)
Siranegger – the source / the source of the issue
Esskisstaa – dancing
Howriyeatt – apostles/disciples/students of Jesus Christ
Kabella Hailatagenyo – Energy means power
Yemoat Devidabi – letter of death/death notice
Kahin – Priest
Dingue – virgin
Fikre-Scaamaakaabir – Love until death do us part
Yenva Messaaf – Reading a book
Yegitim Messaaf – Book of Poetry
Yesra – Alem – work world
Tuuruu saafee – good secretary/author
Yegittim Wodaater – Writing Competition/Dueling Poets/authors
Methadeg – Rescue / Help people
Mellamen – to beg
Meggumgum – to fire an employee
Matain – smartly dressed/sharp
Memmarek – God Bless You
Megibya – to enter / come inside
Gibba gibba – come on in
Memmariya – order from the government/message from the government
Ushabekadeddo Ghiibeegaaber (proverb) – someone else shares your secrets with others
Gobez tamari – good/intelligent student
Saanuff tamari – dull/stupid student
Yeygaara – common use (water, air – for the use of everyone)
Wongaara – something is meaningless in your mind
Negarit Gazetta – Government Publication – (all the laws, regulations etc. are passed here)
Awaj – Statement by the Prime Minister on a new law and associated punishments/sanctions
Wohtaat – young
Magazin – store
Aza – wund – he is an old man, poor man – help him out
Yehwund Aleeetchaa – Insult – shy man – afraid – runs away
Wuhawullett – contaminated water/polluted water
Ayerwullett – soldiers
Mennannyaa – INSULT – dirty
Goalmassah – Middleman
Berrari Worrokatt – delivering a message – pass it on to him
Elaama – aim
Alaama – idea
Ahmsaall – examination
Negarrafaj – client of a lawyer
Bettazammet – family
Libbolet – straight from the heart, fiction
Drama – film, play
Gessabariyaat – characteristics
Towaneye – actor
Gitchitt – crash
Kokabb – star
Berrado – Ice
Melass – tongue
Kunferr – lips
Jorro – ears
Amett Afesh – I don’t have a good life, miserable (you don’t get anything from ashes)
Maatenya – professional
Zinna – famous
Wastinna – guarantee
Jungoorgoon – black and white
Tirrtirr – doubt
Menkaff – complain, I don’t accept your explanation
Erikennaselam – peace agreement
Tarik – history
Gihat – clear
Sost-kan wuhat yellam – We have had no water for 3 days
Yell-bowka – a man who knows people’s secrets
Gung – fat
Yesra-libs – garb
Bado-goat-ah – gap
Barreau – empty
Yat-kent-boatah – garden
Atkilltenya – gardener
Korratoah – gash
Fennakatta – gash
Akatattah – gasp
Benzil – gasoline
Benzil madea – gas station
Workutatt – gastric
Burr – gate
Burrenya – gatekeeper
Libs – garment
Megibya – gatekeeper
Yemmadafiyelle – gazelle
Moot – dead
Denkoro – deaf
Denkoro didda – deaf and mute
Adenakorra – deafen
Chelamma – darkness
Woodinnakirk – darling
Takamma – darn
Dinnusai – a dash of _______
Lettedar edarasam – marriageable
Kiltum – bone marrow
Kontrat – lease
Fitsum – absolutely
Coda coat – leather coat
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Two Christmases
No, I did not watch half the movie called "Four Christmases" starring Reese Witherspoon and Vince Vaughn. This year, I celebrated two Christmases.
According to Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity (which is the most-practiced religion in Ethiopia), Christmas falls on January 7. As such, January 7 is a national holiday and indeed all offices, shops, and businesses close at midday on January 6, so that people can prepare their Christmas feasts for January 7 which include chicken stew (doro wat) eaten with injera (Ethiopian fermented bread) and other meat preparations.
You see, in Ethiopia, people have been fasting since November 24 in anticipation of Christmas. This fast means that they can eat no animal products whatsoever – they cannot eat meat, milk, eggs, cheeses etc. January 6 is the final day of the fast. On the evening of January 6, we went to spend Christmas Eve with our landlord Terefe, his wife Yeshi and his children Melat, Nati, Abel and Baumlik. We had a meal of fasting foods including injera, shiro (chic peas stew), vegetables including collard greens and carrots, and lentil stew. We sat around the Christmas tree and enjoyed fresh popcorn and there was traditional Ethiopian coffee/bunna. The Christmas tree is very prominent here also and there have been trees set up in malls, restaurants, offices, the UN etc. for at least the last 6 weeks.
On January 6, our landlord bought a sheep home in his car which was running around the lawn. When I first saw it on the grass, I thought it was the dog Kujo and ran in to the house and locked the door. However, Mary and Eric assured me that it was the sheep that Terefe bought for Christmas dinner. How embarrassing! The sheep was happily chomping on grass, oblivious to its impending fate and its role as the centerpiece of the Christmas feast the next day! Later that day, our landlord invited us to observe the sheep slaughter and the preparation of the meal. I kindly declined and instead went with Melat to Bole Medanayalam Church (the largest church in all of Ethiopia and some say Africa) for Christmas Eve service. Similar to Hindu temples, women and men must enter the church from separate entrances and sit on different sides of the sanctuary. The church was beautiful – there were huge vaulted ceilings, polished marble floors with carpets, wooden pews, decadent crystal chandeliers and wall fixtures, and gorgeous stained glass windows. The church was silent with a few people praying, as the scent of traditional incense filled the room with a sense of tranquility. The Christmas Eve service was not set to start until midnight, so Melat and I stayed for about 20 minutes before walking back home.
On Christmas day (January 7), I slept in until 11 AM, watched some movies that I rented with Mary and Eric including half of La Vie on Rose (which froze mid-way through and refused to play) and Burn After Reading (the new Joel and Ethan Coen comedy). As it so happens, January 7 also happens to be my birthday and our landlord’s family surprised me with a chocolate cake and magic candles that would not blow out no matter how hard I tried! They kept re-igniting! We then joined our landlord’s family for the Christmas Day feast which included doro wat (chicken stew), injera, sheep stew and all types of meat preparations. Knowing that I am a vegetarian, they prepared my favourites: shiro (chic peas stew), potatoes and carrots and greens with injera. Of course, Christmas would not be complete without popcorn and there was a big bowl of popcorn for us to enjoy after dinner! Thanks so much Terefe, Yeshi and family for including us in your Christmas celebrations and for the birthday celebrations!
Two Christmases in two countries in the course of two weeks. Two times the food. Two times the fun. Two time the memories. Double the blessings! That’s a system that I could get used to. Merry Christmas indeed!
According to Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity (which is the most-practiced religion in Ethiopia), Christmas falls on January 7. As such, January 7 is a national holiday and indeed all offices, shops, and businesses close at midday on January 6, so that people can prepare their Christmas feasts for January 7 which include chicken stew (doro wat) eaten with injera (Ethiopian fermented bread) and other meat preparations.
You see, in Ethiopia, people have been fasting since November 24 in anticipation of Christmas. This fast means that they can eat no animal products whatsoever – they cannot eat meat, milk, eggs, cheeses etc. January 6 is the final day of the fast. On the evening of January 6, we went to spend Christmas Eve with our landlord Terefe, his wife Yeshi and his children Melat, Nati, Abel and Baumlik. We had a meal of fasting foods including injera, shiro (chic peas stew), vegetables including collard greens and carrots, and lentil stew. We sat around the Christmas tree and enjoyed fresh popcorn and there was traditional Ethiopian coffee/bunna. The Christmas tree is very prominent here also and there have been trees set up in malls, restaurants, offices, the UN etc. for at least the last 6 weeks.
On January 6, our landlord bought a sheep home in his car which was running around the lawn. When I first saw it on the grass, I thought it was the dog Kujo and ran in to the house and locked the door. However, Mary and Eric assured me that it was the sheep that Terefe bought for Christmas dinner. How embarrassing! The sheep was happily chomping on grass, oblivious to its impending fate and its role as the centerpiece of the Christmas feast the next day! Later that day, our landlord invited us to observe the sheep slaughter and the preparation of the meal. I kindly declined and instead went with Melat to Bole Medanayalam Church (the largest church in all of Ethiopia and some say Africa) for Christmas Eve service. Similar to Hindu temples, women and men must enter the church from separate entrances and sit on different sides of the sanctuary. The church was beautiful – there were huge vaulted ceilings, polished marble floors with carpets, wooden pews, decadent crystal chandeliers and wall fixtures, and gorgeous stained glass windows. The church was silent with a few people praying, as the scent of traditional incense filled the room with a sense of tranquility. The Christmas Eve service was not set to start until midnight, so Melat and I stayed for about 20 minutes before walking back home.
On Christmas day (January 7), I slept in until 11 AM, watched some movies that I rented with Mary and Eric including half of La Vie on Rose (which froze mid-way through and refused to play) and Burn After Reading (the new Joel and Ethan Coen comedy). As it so happens, January 7 also happens to be my birthday and our landlord’s family surprised me with a chocolate cake and magic candles that would not blow out no matter how hard I tried! They kept re-igniting! We then joined our landlord’s family for the Christmas Day feast which included doro wat (chicken stew), injera, sheep stew and all types of meat preparations. Knowing that I am a vegetarian, they prepared my favourites: shiro (chic peas stew), potatoes and carrots and greens with injera. Of course, Christmas would not be complete without popcorn and there was a big bowl of popcorn for us to enjoy after dinner! Thanks so much Terefe, Yeshi and family for including us in your Christmas celebrations and for the birthday celebrations!
Two Christmases in two countries in the course of two weeks. Two times the food. Two times the fun. Two time the memories. Double the blessings! That’s a system that I could get used to. Merry Christmas indeed!
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Farenji New Year and Early Birthday Celebration
January 1 is not New Years in Ethiopia. Ethiopians celebrate New Years on September 11 and it is currently 2001 according to the Ethiopian calendar and not 2009.
Therefore, on Farenji (foreigner) New Years Eve (December 31), I went out for lunch with my friend Jordan to this great restaurant called Nochla which has traditional Lebanese food including the most delicious flatbread – it is out of this world! For dinner, I met up with a group of 20 fellow Canadians, Americans and other expats to celebrate New Years at Aladdin Restaurant - a lovely Armenian eatery in Addis. The food was incredible and it was so lovely to meet so many people from all over the world and hear the stories of what brought them from various corners of the world to Ethiopia.
On Friday, January 2, 2009, the office staff at the EBA surprised me with a New Year
Party / early birthday party. I had thrown them a party for Ethiopian New Year back in September and they said that they wanted to celebrate my New Year (Jan. 1) and my birthday with me! They got me this lovely watermelon cake and one of my co-workers Mistere made a huge bowl of popcorn for all of us to enjoy! My boss, Ato Derbew, bought me a warm Ethiopian scarf with the traditional Ethiopian colours on the border! Thanks so much Ato Derbew, Mistere, Tizita, Ato Brahan, Bethelehem and Alem! You are the best! It has been an absolute joy to work with all of you. I am so proud to call you my friends and I will miss you so much!
Therefore, on Farenji (foreigner) New Years Eve (December 31), I went out for lunch with my friend Jordan to this great restaurant called Nochla which has traditional Lebanese food including the most delicious flatbread – it is out of this world! For dinner, I met up with a group of 20 fellow Canadians, Americans and other expats to celebrate New Years at Aladdin Restaurant - a lovely Armenian eatery in Addis. The food was incredible and it was so lovely to meet so many people from all over the world and hear the stories of what brought them from various corners of the world to Ethiopia.
On Friday, January 2, 2009, the office staff at the EBA surprised me with a New Year
Party / early birthday party. I had thrown them a party for Ethiopian New Year back in September and they said that they wanted to celebrate my New Year (Jan. 1) and my birthday with me! They got me this lovely watermelon cake and one of my co-workers Mistere made a huge bowl of popcorn for all of us to enjoy! My boss, Ato Derbew, bought me a warm Ethiopian scarf with the traditional Ethiopian colours on the border! Thanks so much Ato Derbew, Mistere, Tizita, Ato Brahan, Bethelehem and Alem! You are the best! It has been an absolute joy to work with all of you. I am so proud to call you my friends and I will miss you so much!
Around Addis: The Entoto Market and Addis Ababa Zoo
On Thursday, January 1, 2008, our landlord, Terefe, took us to the Entoto Market, which is a large market in Northern Addis Ababa, where there are a number of vendors selling scarves, clothes and outfits. This is the market where most of the local Ethiopian populace does their shopping, so it was exciting to go right to the source! Terefe also took us to the Addis Ababa Zoo where there are lions, monkeys, and rabbits. Thank you so much Terefe for the lovely outing!
Saturday Shopping in Tanzania
You cannot keep me from my annual post-Christmas shopping excursion. Granted, it was one day delayed to December 27, but I did not let this little detail stand in the way of my cheap tendency and my motivation to shop! We went to a number of arts and crafts shops where I purchased this beautiful pink soap-stone carving and some traditional paper necklaces.
We met up with Taya and a number of her friends and went for a typically Tanzanian breakfast – at the tea shops. The tea shops in downtown Dar are an institution because they serve tea and all sorts of fried goodness including samosas, pakoras, chapathis, rotis etc. There is one photo of the case of goodies with the sign “A Tea Room” on top. This was by no means the Russian Tea Room in NY and it made no pretense of being anything similar, but I thought the sign was funny for the stark contrast to the NY institution. After feasting on the fried goodness, we walked towards the Karikoo market with the hopes of doing some last minute retail therapy and work off the effects of the fried goodness from the tea room. The Karikoo Market is in this large warehouse type building with a number of stalls selling all types of goods from woven baskets to textiles to bicycles to wheel barrows. While I did not buy anything, I always love visiting markets because it gives you such a sense of the local community and local practices! From there, I caught a taxi back home, packed my bags, wished Cristiano and Roanna a fond farewell, and made my way to the airport for my flight back to Addis! With that my Tanzanian adventure had come to an end leaving me with a series of fond memories, fun pictures, good friends and a strong desire to visit this country again. Tanzania – truly one of a kind!
We met up with Taya and a number of her friends and went for a typically Tanzanian breakfast – at the tea shops. The tea shops in downtown Dar are an institution because they serve tea and all sorts of fried goodness including samosas, pakoras, chapathis, rotis etc. There is one photo of the case of goodies with the sign “A Tea Room” on top. This was by no means the Russian Tea Room in NY and it made no pretense of being anything similar, but I thought the sign was funny for the stark contrast to the NY institution. After feasting on the fried goodness, we walked towards the Karikoo market with the hopes of doing some last minute retail therapy and work off the effects of the fried goodness from the tea room. The Karikoo Market is in this large warehouse type building with a number of stalls selling all types of goods from woven baskets to textiles to bicycles to wheel barrows. While I did not buy anything, I always love visiting markets because it gives you such a sense of the local community and local practices! From there, I caught a taxi back home, packed my bags, wished Cristiano and Roanna a fond farewell, and made my way to the airport for my flight back to Addis! With that my Tanzanian adventure had come to an end leaving me with a series of fond memories, fun pictures, good friends and a strong desire to visit this country again. Tanzania – truly one of a kind!
Boxing Day in Bagomoyo
On Boxing Day, Roanna, Cristiano, Wies, and I traveled to Bagomoyo, this old coastal town which has a rich history and interesting German architecture. My friend and colleague Sarah Louw provides a brilliant, concise description of Bagomoyo on her blog (http://hb2pencil.blogspot.com) which I will quote directly here:
Bagomoyo on the other hand is a small seaside town an hour or two outside of Dar (take a dalladalla from Mwenge to Bagomoyo for Tsh 1800). Bagomoyo used to be one of the most important dhow posts along the East African coast and it was the terminus of the trade caravan route (and the slave trade). It has passed through the hands of the Arabs, Germans and British. Today, the town is quiet and somewhat run down. The buildings erected by the Germans at the turn of the last century are still standing, but most are in bad repair.
After eating lunch at one of the Bagomoyo resorts, we walked through the abandoned town, heard the drumming of a local perched on a store doorstep, meandered through the cobblestone pathways, enjoyed a Fanta, and walked along the beach – not necessarily in that order. The beach was by no means similar to the pristine beaches of Zanzibar - but was covered instead by some ship wreckage and tons of dead fish on the seashore.
Both on the way to Bagomoyo and on the way home to Dar, we stopped at the local gas station where we purchased ice cream bars/cones! It felt like stopping at a gas station while on a road trip in Canada. Thanks so much Wies for taking us to Bagomoyo in your jeep and joining us for the day! We had such a blast!
Bagomoyo on the other hand is a small seaside town an hour or two outside of Dar (take a dalladalla from Mwenge to Bagomoyo for Tsh 1800). Bagomoyo used to be one of the most important dhow posts along the East African coast and it was the terminus of the trade caravan route (and the slave trade). It has passed through the hands of the Arabs, Germans and British. Today, the town is quiet and somewhat run down. The buildings erected by the Germans at the turn of the last century are still standing, but most are in bad repair.
After eating lunch at one of the Bagomoyo resorts, we walked through the abandoned town, heard the drumming of a local perched on a store doorstep, meandered through the cobblestone pathways, enjoyed a Fanta, and walked along the beach – not necessarily in that order. The beach was by no means similar to the pristine beaches of Zanzibar - but was covered instead by some ship wreckage and tons of dead fish on the seashore.
Both on the way to Bagomoyo and on the way home to Dar, we stopped at the local gas station where we purchased ice cream bars/cones! It felt like stopping at a gas station while on a road trip in Canada. Thanks so much Wies for taking us to Bagomoyo in your jeep and joining us for the day! We had such a blast!
Christmas in Tanzania
We arrived back in Dar Christmas Eve and were greeted by Cristiano at the apartment. I was so thrilled to see that he was doing so much better and he told us that he found out he suffered a slight case of pneumonia. I was so happy to see him on the road to recovery and back to his usual witty, hilarious self. Apparently, the power had been out in the apartment building for about 8 hours by that point and it showed no sign of returning any time soon. Power outages are common in Tanzania and Ethiopia for that matter, but the lack of power is more immediately noticeable in Tanzania where the simmering heat needs to be offset by the cooling effects of fans or AC.
While Christmas Eve is typically associated with sleeplessness in children excited at the prospect of Santa’s arrival and opening presents Christmas morning, my sleeplessness had no similar cause. I was hot and sticky and unable (even with my tendency to fall asleep in any situation) to sleep soundly. However, as any good Christmas film, we were awakened Christmas morning by the flicker of lights and the humming of the overhead ceiling fan. I jumped up, yelped for joy, and ran out into the living room where I met Cristiano and Roanna. I screamed while jumping up and down that it was a Christmas miracle – the power was back – a Christmas miracle! In hindsight, it may seem foolish, but at that moment, the return of the power seemed like the most perfect Christmas gift.
We decided that we would walk around downtown for Christmas Day and visit the Dar Es Salaam fish market. En route, we enjoyed fresh coconut water from a roadside vendor. The fish market was as expected – a bevy of activity – with a smell that marked its presence from a mile away. The sticky heat and the smelly fish made for quite the combination – but it was so interesting to see the hub-bub in this central marketplace (which admittedly was quieter than usual given that it was Christmas day). We then walked further downtown, past the Court of Appeal and past the Tanzanian Bank Building which is quite the institution in Tanzania not because of any particular architectural feat or historical significance, but because it cost more to build than the World Trade Center. Now, let me just say, that this is not an exceptionally tall or unique building. I found out that the building was so expensive to build because so much money was expended in bribes, construction delays, etc. etc. I believe I have a photo of this glass building in my Dar photo-album.
We decided that we would have a fancy lunch in honour of our Christmas in Dar. We went to one of the fanciest hotels in Dar - the Kempinski Kilimanjaro – and enjoyed a lovely meal at the Oriental Restaurant including a delectable chocolate dessert to cap off the meal. Before our lunch, we came across a Santa Claus in the lobby and we had our photo taken with him. Let me just say that Santa was working out too much this year – because he was not sporting his trade-mark belly. Santa was skinny! (See our photo with Santa and decide for yourselves).
On Christmas evening, we assembled at Cristiano’s apartment and cooked dinner for a group of friends. We had a decidedly East Indian meal including chic peas curry (chole), basmati / carrot rice, and cucumber and tomato raita. We feasted on Purdy’s chocolate (from Vancouver – thanks to Cristiano) and oatmeal raisin and cinnamon cookies (from Addis). All the while, surrounded by laughter and food and friends and our mini-Christmas tree supplied by our friend Taya, I couldn’t help but smile at the fact that Christmas, so far away from home, while completely different, was still very special. Merry Christmas indeed!
While Christmas Eve is typically associated with sleeplessness in children excited at the prospect of Santa’s arrival and opening presents Christmas morning, my sleeplessness had no similar cause. I was hot and sticky and unable (even with my tendency to fall asleep in any situation) to sleep soundly. However, as any good Christmas film, we were awakened Christmas morning by the flicker of lights and the humming of the overhead ceiling fan. I jumped up, yelped for joy, and ran out into the living room where I met Cristiano and Roanna. I screamed while jumping up and down that it was a Christmas miracle – the power was back – a Christmas miracle! In hindsight, it may seem foolish, but at that moment, the return of the power seemed like the most perfect Christmas gift.
We decided that we would walk around downtown for Christmas Day and visit the Dar Es Salaam fish market. En route, we enjoyed fresh coconut water from a roadside vendor. The fish market was as expected – a bevy of activity – with a smell that marked its presence from a mile away. The sticky heat and the smelly fish made for quite the combination – but it was so interesting to see the hub-bub in this central marketplace (which admittedly was quieter than usual given that it was Christmas day). We then walked further downtown, past the Court of Appeal and past the Tanzanian Bank Building which is quite the institution in Tanzania not because of any particular architectural feat or historical significance, but because it cost more to build than the World Trade Center. Now, let me just say, that this is not an exceptionally tall or unique building. I found out that the building was so expensive to build because so much money was expended in bribes, construction delays, etc. etc. I believe I have a photo of this glass building in my Dar photo-album.
We decided that we would have a fancy lunch in honour of our Christmas in Dar. We went to one of the fanciest hotels in Dar - the Kempinski Kilimanjaro – and enjoyed a lovely meal at the Oriental Restaurant including a delectable chocolate dessert to cap off the meal. Before our lunch, we came across a Santa Claus in the lobby and we had our photo taken with him. Let me just say that Santa was working out too much this year – because he was not sporting his trade-mark belly. Santa was skinny! (See our photo with Santa and decide for yourselves).
On Christmas evening, we assembled at Cristiano’s apartment and cooked dinner for a group of friends. We had a decidedly East Indian meal including chic peas curry (chole), basmati / carrot rice, and cucumber and tomato raita. We feasted on Purdy’s chocolate (from Vancouver – thanks to Cristiano) and oatmeal raisin and cinnamon cookies (from Addis). All the while, surrounded by laughter and food and friends and our mini-Christmas tree supplied by our friend Taya, I couldn’t help but smile at the fact that Christmas, so far away from home, while completely different, was still very special. Merry Christmas indeed!
Kendwa Rocks…no it really does!
We then made our way from Mungapawni beach to Kendwa Rocks. The Spice Tour Operator dropped us of at the nearest dalla dalla (mini-bus) stop and we jumped on for a bumpy and cozy ride to Kendwa. The bus was packed with people and things and sometimes it felt like the wooden benches were going to leave permanent bruising on my behind but luckily we made it there in one piece. From the stop in Kendwa, it was a 20 minute walk along a dusty road to get to Kendwa Rocks, our resort where we would spend the next two days enjoying the beach!
We arrived, exhausted, dusty and looking forward to plunging into the warm crystal waters! We dropped our stuff off in our lovely suite where there was a huge hammock on the patio and a lovely bathroom with a separate shower tub (yay for no wet floors).
We spent the next two days beaching it up – swimming, sitting, sleeping and relaxing on the beach, enjoying the yummy food and drink at the beach restaurant and marveling at the surreal beauty of the white sand beaches, the deep blue waters and the orange sunset. We enjoyed yummy free breakfasts of omelets, toast and fresh fruit and had a chance to truly decompress and relax.
For those of you who know me well, I cannot really sit still for too long and for that matter – I cannot go very long without having to do some shopping. On our second day at Kendwa, I found a series of artists selling paintings on the beach. I was told by my awesome friend Audrey that Zanzibar is the place to buy paintings! Audrey, a fellow Saskatchewanite, lived in Malawi for 2 years, working for the UNDP, and visited Zanzibar where she bought these beautiful paintings in Stone Town. She warned me to look around and haggle about the price! Thanks for the tip Aud! Being from India where bargaining is commonplace and being a notorious cheapskate by nature, I was looking forward to the challenge. Ultimately, I found two paintings that I liked and I got both of them for $15 total – so a good deal overall!
We arrived, exhausted, dusty and looking forward to plunging into the warm crystal waters! We dropped our stuff off in our lovely suite where there was a huge hammock on the patio and a lovely bathroom with a separate shower tub (yay for no wet floors).
We spent the next two days beaching it up – swimming, sitting, sleeping and relaxing on the beach, enjoying the yummy food and drink at the beach restaurant and marveling at the surreal beauty of the white sand beaches, the deep blue waters and the orange sunset. We enjoyed yummy free breakfasts of omelets, toast and fresh fruit and had a chance to truly decompress and relax.
For those of you who know me well, I cannot really sit still for too long and for that matter – I cannot go very long without having to do some shopping. On our second day at Kendwa, I found a series of artists selling paintings on the beach. I was told by my awesome friend Audrey that Zanzibar is the place to buy paintings! Audrey, a fellow Saskatchewanite, lived in Malawi for 2 years, working for the UNDP, and visited Zanzibar where she bought these beautiful paintings in Stone Town. She warned me to look around and haggle about the price! Thanks for the tip Aud! Being from India where bargaining is commonplace and being a notorious cheapskate by nature, I was looking forward to the challenge. Ultimately, I found two paintings that I liked and I got both of them for $15 total – so a good deal overall!
Spice Tour 2008
No we did not go to see a show from the Spice Girls Comeback Tour 2008. Instead, we took part in one of Zanzibar’s famous activities. We took a tour of a Zanzibari spice plantation where there are all sorts of spice and fruit plants. There were cumin plants, fresh pepper, turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, passionfruit, jackfruit etc. Saffron is one of the only spices that is not grown on Zanzibar. There are a number of tour operators that run spice tours from Stone Town to a spice plantation to see the various spice plants.
Now when we arrived in Stone Town on Sunday, all of the tour operators were closed but we were able to book a tour with Mr. Mitu Spice Tour. Mr. Mitu is a privately owned spice tour company but according to the guide book and several travelers – he is the one to use!
We boarded the spice tour bus on Monday morning and proceeded to the spice plantation where as I mentioned earlier, we saw a plethora of amazing spice groves and fruit orchards. We were given spices and fruit to sample as we wandered through the various plantations. Along the way, little children followed us and weaved several creations using grass including baskets, hats, ties, rings, necklaces etc. Roanna was by far their favourite from our tour group and by the end she was fully decked out in grass-jewelry and accessories! One boy offered to make her a hat which she kindly declined and when we returned at the end we found that he had made it anyways. Too funny!
We also purchased some lovely fresh ground spice, teas and lemongrass/coconut oil from the vendors at the end of the spice tour! After we visited the various spice plantations, we sat down in this large semi-circle and enjoyed various fruits including jackfruit, oranges, sitapalam, nungu, melon, etc. The “fruit tour” tour guide cut pieces of fruit for all of us sitting around him. It reminded me of my dad who always cut pieces of fruit for me and my mom or my grandmother would always feeds the grandkids a sweet dessert known as ubattu from one plate!
After the spice tour, we had lunch sitting in a traditional hut. The lunch was fully vegetarian and included a pilaf rice dish with fresh spices, a coconut curry, spinach and fresh chapathi! Yum! There was also a traditional henna artist so some of the women on the tour including Roanna got traditional henna tattoos (which are temporary).
Afterwards, the tour operator took us to visit the Slave Caves near Mungapawni Beach. These caves were used to hide slaves after slavery was abolished. Our tour guide told us a story about an ancient snake deity that lived in the cave but Roanna and I both had trouble following him! There was also this source of water in the cave which the slaves hidden would drink for sustenance. We also heard stories about a passage which many slaves would take in the hopes of escaping only to discover that after 10 km – the passage hit a dead end. According to our tour guide (and again he was somewhat hard to follow), many slaves died on this path while searching for freedom. After visiting the dark and historic caves, we walked through this path towards Mungapawni beach where we had some time to swim and enjoy the sand. Each beach in Zanzibar has a completely unique character – this beach was characterized by a rugged terrain leading up to the most crystal of waters. You could literally see your feet when you stood up – the water was that clear!
Now when we arrived in Stone Town on Sunday, all of the tour operators were closed but we were able to book a tour with Mr. Mitu Spice Tour. Mr. Mitu is a privately owned spice tour company but according to the guide book and several travelers – he is the one to use!
We boarded the spice tour bus on Monday morning and proceeded to the spice plantation where as I mentioned earlier, we saw a plethora of amazing spice groves and fruit orchards. We were given spices and fruit to sample as we wandered through the various plantations. Along the way, little children followed us and weaved several creations using grass including baskets, hats, ties, rings, necklaces etc. Roanna was by far their favourite from our tour group and by the end she was fully decked out in grass-jewelry and accessories! One boy offered to make her a hat which she kindly declined and when we returned at the end we found that he had made it anyways. Too funny!
We also purchased some lovely fresh ground spice, teas and lemongrass/coconut oil from the vendors at the end of the spice tour! After we visited the various spice plantations, we sat down in this large semi-circle and enjoyed various fruits including jackfruit, oranges, sitapalam, nungu, melon, etc. The “fruit tour” tour guide cut pieces of fruit for all of us sitting around him. It reminded me of my dad who always cut pieces of fruit for me and my mom or my grandmother would always feeds the grandkids a sweet dessert known as ubattu from one plate!
After the spice tour, we had lunch sitting in a traditional hut. The lunch was fully vegetarian and included a pilaf rice dish with fresh spices, a coconut curry, spinach and fresh chapathi! Yum! There was also a traditional henna artist so some of the women on the tour including Roanna got traditional henna tattoos (which are temporary).
Afterwards, the tour operator took us to visit the Slave Caves near Mungapawni Beach. These caves were used to hide slaves after slavery was abolished. Our tour guide told us a story about an ancient snake deity that lived in the cave but Roanna and I both had trouble following him! There was also this source of water in the cave which the slaves hidden would drink for sustenance. We also heard stories about a passage which many slaves would take in the hopes of escaping only to discover that after 10 km – the passage hit a dead end. According to our tour guide (and again he was somewhat hard to follow), many slaves died on this path while searching for freedom. After visiting the dark and historic caves, we walked through this path towards Mungapawni beach where we had some time to swim and enjoy the sand. Each beach in Zanzibar has a completely unique character – this beach was characterized by a rugged terrain leading up to the most crystal of waters. You could literally see your feet when you stood up – the water was that clear!
The Annas do Zanzibar: The Night Fish Market and Mercury Restaurant
I almost forgot to mention the food – the food in Tanzania and in Zanzibar too was absolutely amazing! There is fresh fruit and vegetables! There are numerous curries with a plethora of mouth-watering spices and eye-catching colours! The food is spicy and has a lovely kick to it. While in Zanzibar, we visited the Mercury Restaurant which was named after Freddy Mercury from Queen who hailed from Zanzibar! Some of the items are named after him, even though he has no direct affiliation with the restaurant. We also visited the Night (Fish) Market which has a bevy of fresh sea food cooked to perfection in front of you. Being a vegetarian, I did not sample any of the seafood delicacies, but Roanna told me they were delish! Instead, I enjoyed a traditional Zanzibari pizza which is almost calzone-like and truly yummy! We also enjoyed some tender coconut water (for me) and some fresh sugarcane juice (for Roanna).
The Annas do Zanzibar: Ferry Ride, Stone Town and Prison (Changu Island)
The Annas do Zanzibar. By the “annas”, I mean RoANNA and me, PrasANNA.
On Sunday, Roanna and I reluctantly left Cristiano to recuperate and made our way to Zanzibar. Our first stop was the ferry terminal to catch our boat from Zanzibar to Dar. Our first order of business was to sell Cristiano’s ferry ticket, so that he could at least recover some of his money from our pre-paid, non-refundable vacation. We approached people and tentatively asked if they wanted to buy an extra ferry ticket that we had. They asked why we were trying to sell it and our explanation that our friend was sick and unable to travel did not seem to assuage all of their uncertainty. Finally, a kind guard took pity on our plight and took charge asking in Swahili if anyone wanted to purchase our extra ticket. A number of people stepped forward and we were able to sell the ticket for the full price that Cristiano paid. Yay!
Well….the ferry ride. What can I say? My friend and I developed an expression back home to describe when either of us was feeling nauseous – we said it was like taking a ride “uptown on the upchuck express.” The rocky ride was memorable and Roanna was so much more of trooper, eschewing the Gravol that I relied on to get me from Dar to Zanzibar with my stomach intact. Thank goodness for Gravol – even though I didn’t tell Roanna at the time - I am totally positive that it saved me from hurling over the side of the ferry.
We arrived in Stone Town, the port town on Zanzibar and made our way from the ferry docks into the town following the brutal map that was in our Bradt Guide. First off, the map is totally out to lunch when it comes to the scale of things – it made things appear much farther apart than they actually were. Furthermore, Stone Town is composed of numerous meandering, weaving, cobblestone streets (more like alleyways) that do not have proper names. The person who drew the map might as well have been a five year old with a black BIC pen scribbling on the page – because the picture had absolutely no correlation to the paths. In addition to the wonky map and the meandering streets, we were confronted by pesky tour guides who refused to leave us alone and began to play the tried and true game of “Guess our Ethnicity?” Wherever I go, I am always faced with people who randomly shout out countries and try to guess where I am from. This time, Roanna also had the distinct pleasure of participating in this game with people yelling at us in many different languages. The funniest is when one person thought I was from Denmark. Whenever you asked the guides to leave you alone, they responded with a huge smile and the phrase “Hakuna Matata” which as you know based on the Lion King means “no worries”. They then continue to follow you and regardless of what you say, respond with Hakuna Matata to the point where you are so completely exasperated that the mere mention of Hakuna Matata will drive you up the wall and around the bend.
After we finally found our hostel, we set down our bags and made our way through the streets of Stone Town again to explore and to visit some of the sites. Stone Town seems frozen in time – from another era. At one point, we encountered a group of people sitting on one of the meandering streets huddled around a TV set watching a soccer game.
Our first stop was trying to locate the Fordhani Gardens. We soon discovered that the Fordhani Gardens were under major renovation and only scheduled to reopen sometime in January 2009. As such, we made our way to Changu / Prison Island by boat which has this tortoise sanctuary where there are huge and I mean MUTANTLY huge tortoises – it was like the real-life, all-too-real version of Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – these turtles were big and slow and interesting! You pay admission to enter the sanctuary on the island and feed the tortoises spinach. The guide told us that turtles also eat mangos, papaya and all sorts of other fruits and veges. Don’t let their vegan diet fool you – these turtles have ridiculously sharp teeth and you pretty much have to drop the spinach as it gets closer to their mouths in order to save your fingertips. I also found the sanctuary hilarious because we were surrounded by signs that said DO NOT FEED THE TORTOISE, even though the very object of the sanctuary is to allow visitors to feed the animals. We also had the distinct misfortune of walking past some tortoises in the process of procreation – nothing romantic about it – let me tell you.
We then visited the old prison which is now some sort of combination book shop, hostel and party space – it was unclear what exactly it was used for. Historically, the prison was built to house slaves but it is unclear if it was ever used for that purpose. The building provided some of the most beautiful views of the beach/ocean and there was this idyllic boardwalk leading back to the beach where I can only describe the sand as being like Rogers Brown Sugar – it was so soft and the colour was exactly like brown sugar. I got a chance to revert to being a child again – drawing designs in the sand, building things and taking pictures of the other people and their sand creations. A lovely afternoon indeed!
On Sunday, Roanna and I reluctantly left Cristiano to recuperate and made our way to Zanzibar. Our first stop was the ferry terminal to catch our boat from Zanzibar to Dar. Our first order of business was to sell Cristiano’s ferry ticket, so that he could at least recover some of his money from our pre-paid, non-refundable vacation. We approached people and tentatively asked if they wanted to buy an extra ferry ticket that we had. They asked why we were trying to sell it and our explanation that our friend was sick and unable to travel did not seem to assuage all of their uncertainty. Finally, a kind guard took pity on our plight and took charge asking in Swahili if anyone wanted to purchase our extra ticket. A number of people stepped forward and we were able to sell the ticket for the full price that Cristiano paid. Yay!
Well….the ferry ride. What can I say? My friend and I developed an expression back home to describe when either of us was feeling nauseous – we said it was like taking a ride “uptown on the upchuck express.” The rocky ride was memorable and Roanna was so much more of trooper, eschewing the Gravol that I relied on to get me from Dar to Zanzibar with my stomach intact. Thank goodness for Gravol – even though I didn’t tell Roanna at the time - I am totally positive that it saved me from hurling over the side of the ferry.
We arrived in Stone Town, the port town on Zanzibar and made our way from the ferry docks into the town following the brutal map that was in our Bradt Guide. First off, the map is totally out to lunch when it comes to the scale of things – it made things appear much farther apart than they actually were. Furthermore, Stone Town is composed of numerous meandering, weaving, cobblestone streets (more like alleyways) that do not have proper names. The person who drew the map might as well have been a five year old with a black BIC pen scribbling on the page – because the picture had absolutely no correlation to the paths. In addition to the wonky map and the meandering streets, we were confronted by pesky tour guides who refused to leave us alone and began to play the tried and true game of “Guess our Ethnicity?” Wherever I go, I am always faced with people who randomly shout out countries and try to guess where I am from. This time, Roanna also had the distinct pleasure of participating in this game with people yelling at us in many different languages. The funniest is when one person thought I was from Denmark. Whenever you asked the guides to leave you alone, they responded with a huge smile and the phrase “Hakuna Matata” which as you know based on the Lion King means “no worries”. They then continue to follow you and regardless of what you say, respond with Hakuna Matata to the point where you are so completely exasperated that the mere mention of Hakuna Matata will drive you up the wall and around the bend.
After we finally found our hostel, we set down our bags and made our way through the streets of Stone Town again to explore and to visit some of the sites. Stone Town seems frozen in time – from another era. At one point, we encountered a group of people sitting on one of the meandering streets huddled around a TV set watching a soccer game.
Our first stop was trying to locate the Fordhani Gardens. We soon discovered that the Fordhani Gardens were under major renovation and only scheduled to reopen sometime in January 2009. As such, we made our way to Changu / Prison Island by boat which has this tortoise sanctuary where there are huge and I mean MUTANTLY huge tortoises – it was like the real-life, all-too-real version of Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – these turtles were big and slow and interesting! You pay admission to enter the sanctuary on the island and feed the tortoises spinach. The guide told us that turtles also eat mangos, papaya and all sorts of other fruits and veges. Don’t let their vegan diet fool you – these turtles have ridiculously sharp teeth and you pretty much have to drop the spinach as it gets closer to their mouths in order to save your fingertips. I also found the sanctuary hilarious because we were surrounded by signs that said DO NOT FEED THE TORTOISE, even though the very object of the sanctuary is to allow visitors to feed the animals. We also had the distinct misfortune of walking past some tortoises in the process of procreation – nothing romantic about it – let me tell you.
We then visited the old prison which is now some sort of combination book shop, hostel and party space – it was unclear what exactly it was used for. Historically, the prison was built to house slaves but it is unclear if it was ever used for that purpose. The building provided some of the most beautiful views of the beach/ocean and there was this idyllic boardwalk leading back to the beach where I can only describe the sand as being like Rogers Brown Sugar – it was so soft and the colour was exactly like brown sugar. I got a chance to revert to being a child again – drawing designs in the sand, building things and taking pictures of the other people and their sand creations. A lovely afternoon indeed!
Discovering Dar Es Salaam
On Saturday, I spent the day doing a walking tour through Dar! Unfortunately, Cristiano was felled by a terrible illness that required him to take a plethora of meds and stay in bed with a fever and flu-like symptoms – but he ever so kindly drew me a map of places to see in Dar and how to get downtown from his house.
I decided to take a dalla dalla – the Tanzanian version of the Ethiopian mini-bus. The dalla-dallas are much cleaner and more spacious and tend to more closely resemble a bus in Canada than the Ethiopian mini-bus (though still nowhere as big as the buses in Canada). I thought I was following the directions that Cristiano gave me, but I ended up walking too far off-course, so far in fact that I ended up smack-dab in the middle of a shanty town (basically a slum area) composed of huts, windy passages, and inquisitive stares from locals wondering what the heck this mzungu (foreigner in Swahili, but its literal translation is “white person” – they call all foreigners mzungu – even those that are not white) was doing in their ‘hood’. Luckily, from the throng of uncomfortable stares, emerged a young local who took pity on my plight and pointed me in the direction of the nearest main road where I could catch a taxi downtown. In order to get to the dalla-dalla stop I needed, I would have to turn back and walk quite some distance. Thankfully, I decided not to let my cheapness win out and followed him to the nearest main road to hail a cab to go downtown.
I got off at the Posta (post office) which is in the center of downtown Dar and decided to see some of the major sites including the Botanical Gardens and the Museum and House of Culture in Dar Es Salaam (i.e. The National Museum of Tanzania).
In perhaps one of the biggest cases of misleading advertising, there is absolutely nothing “botanical” about the Botanical Gardens – in fact, I was hard pressed to find a flower in bloom within these “gardens”. There was one tree, a series of bushes and a lot of unkempt grass. Upon arrival, I was almost positive that I was lost. As such, I asked a local about the location of the Botanical Gardens. He laughed and flashed a knowing smile telling me that I was already there – standing smack dab in the middle of the Botanical Gardens. After what can only be described as a 5-minute flying visit, I made my way across the street to the National Museum of Tanzania.
The National Museum of Tanzania/the Museum and House of Culture Dar Es Salaam was opened in 1940. It was established in memory of King George V for his long reign. This museum includes permanent collections the Evolution of Man, History of Tanzania, and Biology and Ethnography. The Hall of Man includes a number of “hominid findings”. The History Gallery includes objects, manuscripts, photographs, and illustrations on the history of Tanzania including a number of marble carvings as well as stuffed lion that was presented to the President as a gift. The Biology Hall includes a lot of information and exhibits on Tanzania’s biodiversity – including “diverse life forms in aquatic and terrestrial environments.” Finally, the Ethnographic Hall includes cultural artifacts such as jewelry, household items, traditional musical instruments, fashion, healing items etc. There is also a small collection of representative paintings, carvings and statutes representing the rich artistic traditions of Tanzania. Finally, I also saw a collection of historic cars in Tanzania including the Rolls Royce owned by the former President of Tanzania.
My first full day in Dar ended with another trip to the airport, this time to pick up our friend, Roanna arriving from Grahamstown, South Africa. Dar – what can I say? Dar is a completely different entity – much different than Addis – and the tour books in fact talk about how many people go out of their way to avoid the city – opting instead for the beach paradise in Zanzibar or the safari adventures of the Serengeti. Dar is not obviously magical or captivating, but it is a unique place. I cannot quite capture it in words, but if I were to try, I would have to say that the energy of the Dar is latent, percolating slightly below the surface, intermingled with the vivid smells of fruit, fish and frenzy, yet bubbling with a vibrancy and elusiveness that is both captivating and confounding all at the same time. Gobbledy gook I know – but you truly have to visit to understand.
I decided to take a dalla dalla – the Tanzanian version of the Ethiopian mini-bus. The dalla-dallas are much cleaner and more spacious and tend to more closely resemble a bus in Canada than the Ethiopian mini-bus (though still nowhere as big as the buses in Canada). I thought I was following the directions that Cristiano gave me, but I ended up walking too far off-course, so far in fact that I ended up smack-dab in the middle of a shanty town (basically a slum area) composed of huts, windy passages, and inquisitive stares from locals wondering what the heck this mzungu (foreigner in Swahili, but its literal translation is “white person” – they call all foreigners mzungu – even those that are not white) was doing in their ‘hood’. Luckily, from the throng of uncomfortable stares, emerged a young local who took pity on my plight and pointed me in the direction of the nearest main road where I could catch a taxi downtown. In order to get to the dalla-dalla stop I needed, I would have to turn back and walk quite some distance. Thankfully, I decided not to let my cheapness win out and followed him to the nearest main road to hail a cab to go downtown.
I got off at the Posta (post office) which is in the center of downtown Dar and decided to see some of the major sites including the Botanical Gardens and the Museum and House of Culture in Dar Es Salaam (i.e. The National Museum of Tanzania).
In perhaps one of the biggest cases of misleading advertising, there is absolutely nothing “botanical” about the Botanical Gardens – in fact, I was hard pressed to find a flower in bloom within these “gardens”. There was one tree, a series of bushes and a lot of unkempt grass. Upon arrival, I was almost positive that I was lost. As such, I asked a local about the location of the Botanical Gardens. He laughed and flashed a knowing smile telling me that I was already there – standing smack dab in the middle of the Botanical Gardens. After what can only be described as a 5-minute flying visit, I made my way across the street to the National Museum of Tanzania.
The National Museum of Tanzania/the Museum and House of Culture Dar Es Salaam was opened in 1940. It was established in memory of King George V for his long reign. This museum includes permanent collections the Evolution of Man, History of Tanzania, and Biology and Ethnography. The Hall of Man includes a number of “hominid findings”. The History Gallery includes objects, manuscripts, photographs, and illustrations on the history of Tanzania including a number of marble carvings as well as stuffed lion that was presented to the President as a gift. The Biology Hall includes a lot of information and exhibits on Tanzania’s biodiversity – including “diverse life forms in aquatic and terrestrial environments.” Finally, the Ethnographic Hall includes cultural artifacts such as jewelry, household items, traditional musical instruments, fashion, healing items etc. There is also a small collection of representative paintings, carvings and statutes representing the rich artistic traditions of Tanzania. Finally, I also saw a collection of historic cars in Tanzania including the Rolls Royce owned by the former President of Tanzania.
My first full day in Dar ended with another trip to the airport, this time to pick up our friend, Roanna arriving from Grahamstown, South Africa. Dar – what can I say? Dar is a completely different entity – much different than Addis – and the tour books in fact talk about how many people go out of their way to avoid the city – opting instead for the beach paradise in Zanzibar or the safari adventures of the Serengeti. Dar is not obviously magical or captivating, but it is a unique place. I cannot quite capture it in words, but if I were to try, I would have to say that the energy of the Dar is latent, percolating slightly below the surface, intermingled with the vivid smells of fruit, fish and frenzy, yet bubbling with a vibrancy and elusiveness that is both captivating and confounding all at the same time. Gobbledy gook I know – but you truly have to visit to understand.
Totally Tanzania - Arriving in Dar
On Friday, December 19, I set out for Tanzania for Christmas vacation where I was meeting up with two friends also taking part in the CBA-CIDA Young Professionals International Program: Cristiano and Roanna. Cristiano is working with the TLS in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania and Roanna is working with the Legal Resources Center in Grahamstown, South Africa. My flight was bright and early Friday morning - at 4 AM to be exact - so I decided to spend the night at the Addis Ababa airport instead of having to find a taxi at 1:30 AM in order to make it to the airport for the 2 AM check-in time. Fun times. Not only were the ticket counters closed until after 2 AM, there were virtually no places to sit. So I plopped my backpack on the ground stretched out on my very own piece of floor and took a cat-nap until the counters opened.
After flying from Addis to Nairobi where I caught my connection flight to Dar Es Salaam, I stepped off the flight into what can only be described as a thick heat. Cristiano warned me that Dar was hot and he was so right! In Addis, while the afternoons can become warm under the scrutiny of the Ethiopian sunlight, the high altitude coupled with the constantly cool breezes make Addis a cool departure from the typical assumptions about African weather. Needless to say, I did not have any clothes for the warm weather. Knowing that Addis is cooler, I brought a total of 2 T-shirts from Canada, opting instead for a full collection of long-sleeve shirts and sweaters. Not smart for Dar. Not smart at all.
Upon my arrival, I discovered one of the many things about Tanzania with which I fell instantly in love. Tanzania has ATM machines! Yes people, you can use your debit card and enter a handy four-digit pin code and presto-chango, the machine dispenses cash. I have heard of these machines and, in fact, have a faint recollection of them being commonplace in Canada, but there are no ATMs in Addis. None. At. All. You have to take money off your VISA card in Addis or cash travelers’ cheques and I recently discovered that it is virtually impossible to exchange Ethiopian birr back into other currencies – so I better be sure to spend all of my birr before coming home. Shopping!
Another thing about Tanzania – you can get a SIM card for under $1 and can buy a SIM card at any corner shop, kiosk, grocery store, pharmacy etc. Remember the drama I endured to get a SIM card in Addis? Scroll back a few pages for the full recap, but needless to say the process in Addis was pure torture and a SIM card cost close to $50. Within 5 minutes, I was instantly in possession of a Tanzanian cell phone number for the duration of my stay and as my parents later told me, the rates are much better to call a TNZ cell phone than an Ethiopian one. My parents told me that it costs them 4 times as much to call Ethiopia from Canada compared to calling Tanzania.
Ooooh – yet another thing I love about Tanzania is the prevalence of the Bajaj which is the Indian auto-rickshaw. These auto-rickshaws are commonplace in the city. This little vehicle is super handy especially in thick traffic because it can easily wind through the meandering streets and avoid traffic congestion! Yay for the Auto-Rickshaw!
In any event, I arrived at Cristiano’s apartment, dropped my bags off in my room and decided to take a shower only to discover that they were undergoing a severe water shortage/problem which has resulted in no running water. The irony of the situation was not lost on me. I was so looking forward to my Tanzanian sojourn as a way to escape the intermittent water supply in Addis. To find a similar plight in Dar, which is all the more worse given the unbearable heat, was particularly funny.
I took a nap until Cristiano got home from work and then we went out for dinner to a restaurant called BBQ Village with a group of expats working in Dar. Our friend and colleague Sarah, also a CBA-CIDA person, was scheduled to leave with her boyfriend Wes for South Africa via train to Zambia, but her train did not arrive as scheduled. As such, I was able to spend a day with Sarah and Wes in Dar also! Their train ultimately arrived and left the next day. Poor guys, they had to endure such a dizzying array of travel delays before getting on the road. I hope you had a fabulous trip to South Africa guys! I am so glad that I had a chance to see you!
After flying from Addis to Nairobi where I caught my connection flight to Dar Es Salaam, I stepped off the flight into what can only be described as a thick heat. Cristiano warned me that Dar was hot and he was so right! In Addis, while the afternoons can become warm under the scrutiny of the Ethiopian sunlight, the high altitude coupled with the constantly cool breezes make Addis a cool departure from the typical assumptions about African weather. Needless to say, I did not have any clothes for the warm weather. Knowing that Addis is cooler, I brought a total of 2 T-shirts from Canada, opting instead for a full collection of long-sleeve shirts and sweaters. Not smart for Dar. Not smart at all.
Upon my arrival, I discovered one of the many things about Tanzania with which I fell instantly in love. Tanzania has ATM machines! Yes people, you can use your debit card and enter a handy four-digit pin code and presto-chango, the machine dispenses cash. I have heard of these machines and, in fact, have a faint recollection of them being commonplace in Canada, but there are no ATMs in Addis. None. At. All. You have to take money off your VISA card in Addis or cash travelers’ cheques and I recently discovered that it is virtually impossible to exchange Ethiopian birr back into other currencies – so I better be sure to spend all of my birr before coming home. Shopping!
Another thing about Tanzania – you can get a SIM card for under $1 and can buy a SIM card at any corner shop, kiosk, grocery store, pharmacy etc. Remember the drama I endured to get a SIM card in Addis? Scroll back a few pages for the full recap, but needless to say the process in Addis was pure torture and a SIM card cost close to $50. Within 5 minutes, I was instantly in possession of a Tanzanian cell phone number for the duration of my stay and as my parents later told me, the rates are much better to call a TNZ cell phone than an Ethiopian one. My parents told me that it costs them 4 times as much to call Ethiopia from Canada compared to calling Tanzania.
Ooooh – yet another thing I love about Tanzania is the prevalence of the Bajaj which is the Indian auto-rickshaw. These auto-rickshaws are commonplace in the city. This little vehicle is super handy especially in thick traffic because it can easily wind through the meandering streets and avoid traffic congestion! Yay for the Auto-Rickshaw!
In any event, I arrived at Cristiano’s apartment, dropped my bags off in my room and decided to take a shower only to discover that they were undergoing a severe water shortage/problem which has resulted in no running water. The irony of the situation was not lost on me. I was so looking forward to my Tanzanian sojourn as a way to escape the intermittent water supply in Addis. To find a similar plight in Dar, which is all the more worse given the unbearable heat, was particularly funny.
I took a nap until Cristiano got home from work and then we went out for dinner to a restaurant called BBQ Village with a group of expats working in Dar. Our friend and colleague Sarah, also a CBA-CIDA person, was scheduled to leave with her boyfriend Wes for South Africa via train to Zambia, but her train did not arrive as scheduled. As such, I was able to spend a day with Sarah and Wes in Dar also! Their train ultimately arrived and left the next day. Poor guys, they had to endure such a dizzying array of travel delays before getting on the road. I hope you had a fabulous trip to South Africa guys! I am so glad that I had a chance to see you!
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