As promised last week, here are the photos from our New Years Eve celebrations, our trip to Bahir Dar, our visit to Lake Tana and the Monasteries, our trek near the Blue Nile Falls, the Bahir Dar Market, the Road Trip and my Co-workers at the EBA. Have a great day everyone!
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasannainethiopia
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Down to the Car Wash (We’ll Be Having Some Fun)
En route to the mini-bus stop in the mornings, we pass a large swamp/puddle of water near the road. This local “watering hole” (Quite literally) is the source of much activity with people washing clothes, bathing, collecting water to use for their shoe-polishing business etc. The most interesting aspect of this swamp/pool/marsh is that it also serves as a full-on/full-service car wash with people inviting cars to park near the swamp and people collecting water from the swamp and washing cars. It is quite the sight and quite the hubbub of activity. Cars of all types stop here. There are the blue and white taxis. There are a few Mercedes. There are trucks. You name it.
I wonder what the reaction would be from the locals here if they saw the over-the-top, automated car washes that we have in Canada. It would probably seem like a huge waste of water and power, plus the social aspect of the car wash here which creates a gathering place for many people would be completely lost in the automated process of a Canadian car wash. Now only if this car wash sold slurpees like the 7/11 back home – I would be all set.
I wonder what the reaction would be from the locals here if they saw the over-the-top, automated car washes that we have in Canada. It would probably seem like a huge waste of water and power, plus the social aspect of the car wash here which creates a gathering place for many people would be completely lost in the automated process of a Canadian car wash. Now only if this car wash sold slurpees like the 7/11 back home – I would be all set.
Crouching Shower, Hidden Water
No, this is not the name of a new movie parody spoofing the famous Ang Lee movie, Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon.
Let me explain the title of this blog entry. You see, we moved into our rental house on August 20 and this Saturday will be our one-month anniversary in the new place! I cannot believe how time flies.
While the house is very comfortable for the most part, we have had this lingering issue where there is no running water during the day and over the weekends. This means that we can only take a shower late at night or sometimes in the mornings (or some days, not at all) when the water decides to work. Even when there is water, there has not been enough water pressure to bring the water up and through the shower, which has meant that we have had to “crouch” under the hand shower which we can only hold about 3 feet above the ground. Lifting the handshower any higher than 3 feet brings the water flow to a complete standstill. Hence the Crouching Shower.
On the weekends, the situation is even worse, with absolutely no running water at all, meaning no flushing the toilets, no washing dishes, no cooking, no showers, nothing. So, some weekends, we have been lucky to take a shower on Friday and then again on Monday. Let me just say that deodorant can only do so much. Hence, the title Hidden Water.
But it appears that there is light at the end of the tunnel. Our wonderful landlord Terefe is installing a reserve water tank (something that is quite common and something we should have asked about when looking at places) which holds about 100 litres of water in a tank above a pedestal near the house so that when the main water supply is dry, the reserve tank will kick in. Until now, when there was no water, we had to use the garden hose (the only tap with continuous water) to wash our dishes and do some laundry. In fact, on Sunday, I washed my hair on the driveway outside of the house using the garden hose (shampoo, conditioner…the works). I cannot wait for the reserve tank, which at present is sitting on the front lawn serving as a playhouse to the youngest of Terefe’s children, Baumlik.
Let me just say that while it has been interesting living with minimal water, I am by no means complaining. My colleague, Elise, who has been in Jamaica was without running water for a week after the hurricane. I do not know how she managed! She is a trooper! Furthermore, people here every day struggle with limited or no water source/supply which makes me so grateful for the limited water we receive every day….which brings me to the next entry (on the creative and multi-purpose usage of water sources in Addis).
Let me explain the title of this blog entry. You see, we moved into our rental house on August 20 and this Saturday will be our one-month anniversary in the new place! I cannot believe how time flies.
While the house is very comfortable for the most part, we have had this lingering issue where there is no running water during the day and over the weekends. This means that we can only take a shower late at night or sometimes in the mornings (or some days, not at all) when the water decides to work. Even when there is water, there has not been enough water pressure to bring the water up and through the shower, which has meant that we have had to “crouch” under the hand shower which we can only hold about 3 feet above the ground. Lifting the handshower any higher than 3 feet brings the water flow to a complete standstill. Hence the Crouching Shower.
On the weekends, the situation is even worse, with absolutely no running water at all, meaning no flushing the toilets, no washing dishes, no cooking, no showers, nothing. So, some weekends, we have been lucky to take a shower on Friday and then again on Monday. Let me just say that deodorant can only do so much. Hence, the title Hidden Water.
But it appears that there is light at the end of the tunnel. Our wonderful landlord Terefe is installing a reserve water tank (something that is quite common and something we should have asked about when looking at places) which holds about 100 litres of water in a tank above a pedestal near the house so that when the main water supply is dry, the reserve tank will kick in. Until now, when there was no water, we had to use the garden hose (the only tap with continuous water) to wash our dishes and do some laundry. In fact, on Sunday, I washed my hair on the driveway outside of the house using the garden hose (shampoo, conditioner…the works). I cannot wait for the reserve tank, which at present is sitting on the front lawn serving as a playhouse to the youngest of Terefe’s children, Baumlik.
Let me just say that while it has been interesting living with minimal water, I am by no means complaining. My colleague, Elise, who has been in Jamaica was without running water for a week after the hurricane. I do not know how she managed! She is a trooper! Furthermore, people here every day struggle with limited or no water source/supply which makes me so grateful for the limited water we receive every day….which brings me to the next entry (on the creative and multi-purpose usage of water sources in Addis).
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Pictures of You, Pictures of Me
Hello all! Here are a few pictures from my time in Addis so far including my 5 minute trip to the Sheraton, our house, my roommates, my office, the taxis, and all things Addis Ababa including some of the coffee ceremony with my landlord and his family and I think some from after the fashion show. The link is as follows:
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasannainethiopia/ArrivingInAddis#
Enjoy! I have many pictures from my trip this past weekend, but it is really hard to upload them on Picasa given the internet (and its speed or lack thereof). I will try my best. Have a great day everyone and a wonderful week ahead.
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasannainethiopia/ArrivingInAddis#
Enjoy! I have many pictures from my trip this past weekend, but it is really hard to upload them on Picasa given the internet (and its speed or lack thereof). I will try my best. Have a great day everyone and a wonderful week ahead.
Lessons Learned
Lessons from Our Trip to Bahir Dar:
1) Bahir Dar is Beautiful
2) Visit the Blue Nile Falls
3) See the Monastery on the Peninsula (Ura Kidane Meret)
4) Meet Bisrat
5) Avoid Tour Agents that Lurk in the Hotel Lobby
6) Have a drink on the Tana Hotel patio and watch the sunset (it is worth it)
7) Take lots of mosquito repellant and take an anti-malarial medication (Bahir Dar is a malaria region and make sure to stay at a hotel with mosquito nets on the beds (the one things Summerland did right)).
8) Don't wear dress shoes to go hiking!
9) Eat the French Toast at the Summerland Hotel (probably the best thing about the place)
10) Fly to Bahir Dar. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. The price difference with the mini-bus and the flight is there for a reason. The roads to Bahir Dar are BUMPY and taking the mini-bus for that long is not fun. Trust me. Take a flight. You will be much happier.
1) Bahir Dar is Beautiful
2) Visit the Blue Nile Falls
3) See the Monastery on the Peninsula (Ura Kidane Meret)
4) Meet Bisrat
5) Avoid Tour Agents that Lurk in the Hotel Lobby
6) Have a drink on the Tana Hotel patio and watch the sunset (it is worth it)
7) Take lots of mosquito repellant and take an anti-malarial medication (Bahir Dar is a malaria region and make sure to stay at a hotel with mosquito nets on the beds (the one things Summerland did right)).
8) Don't wear dress shoes to go hiking!
9) Eat the French Toast at the Summerland Hotel (probably the best thing about the place)
10) Fly to Bahir Dar. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. The price difference with the mini-bus and the flight is there for a reason. The roads to Bahir Dar are BUMPY and taking the mini-bus for that long is not fun. Trust me. Take a flight. You will be much happier.
Sweet Home (Addis Ababa)
This past weekend was full of highs and lows, but it is a weekend that I will cherish forever. The memory of the monasteries, the falls and the market, and the rich characters we met along the way are forever etched in my memory. I am grateful to be home, to be back into the swing of things, and to be in the rhythm of my routine. I also realize that there is so much more to explore and I look forward to the next adventure, uncertain of its exact contours, but certain of its promise.
The Boss of Bahir Dar: Bisrat at the Ghion Hotel
If you need to get anything arranged in Bahir Dar, go and see Bisrat at the Ghion Hotel. He is a fabulous man who manages the Ghion Hotel (a budget hotel with a beautiful lakeside patio and a wonderful, relaxed vibe). Even though we did not stay at the Ghion (it is an older hotel in need of some renos), Bisrat arranged our tour to the Blue Nile falls and organized our trip back to Addis (the Ghion tours to the Blue Nile Falls are listed in the Lonely Planet). Our discovery of Ato Bisrat was a wonderful side-benefit of visiting the Ghion.
When we called and complained about our shady mini-bus driver (Iago), Bisrat took immediate action and said he would handle the situation, promising even to return our deposit. Bisrat is one of those people you meet in life that goes out of his way to help you even if he does not have to. He did not gain by helping us (in fact he might still have to endure the drama associated with Iago), but he helped us just the same. If you visit Bahir Dar and you should (it is stunning), call Bisrat. He will help you out. Who’s the Boss in Bahir Dar? No, not Tony Danza or Judith Light. It’s Bisrat.
When we called and complained about our shady mini-bus driver (Iago), Bisrat took immediate action and said he would handle the situation, promising even to return our deposit. Bisrat is one of those people you meet in life that goes out of his way to help you even if he does not have to. He did not gain by helping us (in fact he might still have to endure the drama associated with Iago), but he helped us just the same. If you visit Bahir Dar and you should (it is stunning), call Bisrat. He will help you out. Who’s the Boss in Bahir Dar? No, not Tony Danza or Judith Light. It’s Bisrat.
Introducing Beastly and Iago
For every heartwarming and wonderful character you meet while traveling (i.e. Isharak), there is rude or mean person that annoys you at the time but makes your trip so memorable when you think back upon it. On our voyage to Bahir Dar, there were a few such characters. On a previous backpacking voyage in Europe, my friends and I came up with various names for people we met on our travels that were particularly mean, difficult or rude. We often named them after villains from cartoons. For instance, we had Cruella De-Ville who was the downright unpleasant manager at our Paris hostel.
Well this trip was no different. Let me introduce you to Beastley. Beastley is the name of the mean side-kick on Care Bears. He is the assistant to the villainous No-Heart, but is generally considered pretty harmless. Beastley was our tour guide on Lake Tana who quoted a price and then demanded an additional 300 birr for a guide fee after he had only quoted 50 birr. He was quite shifty and rude and we had to tell him his services were no longer required for the Blue Nile Falls after he dropped us off at the hotel for lunch.
Then there is Iago – Jafar’s assistant in Aladdin. In our particular story, Iago is our shady mini-bus driver who drove us back from Bahir Dar to Addis. After we had paid 1300 birr ($130 Cdn) to rent out the whole mini-bus for our drive back (we wanted to lie down on the return voyage), he randomly started picking up people on the side of the road to drive with us. He refused to listen to our requests and when we phoned his boss on our cell phone to complain, he asked us to lie and say that nobody else was on the bus with us. Furthermore, he would repeatedly wake up Eric on the bus by calling his name and then when we would ask what he required, he would simply giggle. Finally, he refused to drop us off at our home in Addis, dropping us instead at Piazza, because he did not feel like driving all the way to our house.
Well this trip was no different. Let me introduce you to Beastley. Beastley is the name of the mean side-kick on Care Bears. He is the assistant to the villainous No-Heart, but is generally considered pretty harmless. Beastley was our tour guide on Lake Tana who quoted a price and then demanded an additional 300 birr for a guide fee after he had only quoted 50 birr. He was quite shifty and rude and we had to tell him his services were no longer required for the Blue Nile Falls after he dropped us off at the hotel for lunch.
Then there is Iago – Jafar’s assistant in Aladdin. In our particular story, Iago is our shady mini-bus driver who drove us back from Bahir Dar to Addis. After we had paid 1300 birr ($130 Cdn) to rent out the whole mini-bus for our drive back (we wanted to lie down on the return voyage), he randomly started picking up people on the side of the road to drive with us. He refused to listen to our requests and when we phoned his boss on our cell phone to complain, he asked us to lie and say that nobody else was on the bus with us. Furthermore, he would repeatedly wake up Eric on the bus by calling his name and then when we would ask what he required, he would simply giggle. Finally, he refused to drop us off at our home in Addis, dropping us instead at Piazza, because he did not feel like driving all the way to our house.
To Market, To Market: The Bahir Dar Open-Air Market
Speaking of Shopping, on Saturday, we went to the Bahir Dar Open Air Market where there were vendors selling scarves, blankets, fabrics, spices, vegetables and pretty much anything your heart desires. After navigating the narrow twists and turns of the market, negotiating up a storm, meeting several assistants (people who want to help you shop and constantly follow you around), and finding some good deals, we had our first market experience - an experience that every shopoholic must have at least once in his or her lifetime. In terms of tangible benefits, I bought 2 gaabis (traditional Ethiopian blankets) that people use to cover themselves in the house and stay warm – kind of like a throw blanket you would have on your couch.
Introducing Isharak
Introducing Isharak
One thing Mary, Eric and I noticed when traveling this past weekend is that local people outside of Addis are fascinated by firenjes (foreigners) – i.e. us. Whenever our car stops on the road even for just a minute, the car is surrounded by locals who press their faces against the glass and peer at us inquisitively. It is often the children who are the most bold and will come up and ask you questions with the English they know.
While walking in the town of Bahir Dar, we are often surrounded by children who chat us up, most with an eye to getting some type of money. One day, a little boy and his friend approached us and said hello. Eric responded by saying Bonjour which immediately had the boy laughing. We thought he would just move along thinking we didn’t speak English, but in yet another example of expecting the unexpected, the little boy begain engaging us in conversation in French. “Comment Ca Va?” “Comment appelles-tu?” “Ca va bien”. He was really good. He then proceeded to ask us for money until we reached the hotel.
On our trek to the Blue Nile Falls, there are a number of children selling scarves, art and flutes (wooden flutes) to the many visitors. Instead of just approaching us and attempting to display their merchandise, many children adopted a tailored, individualized method of selling their goods. One little girl in particular, named Isharak, came up to me and asked, “Good afternoon Mister, what is your name?” I told her my name at which point she said, “Prasanna, that is a very beautiful name. My name is Isharak, would you like to buy a scarf? Don’t feel pressured. Take your time and on your way back from the falls, come and see me. Remember, my name is Isharak. Don’t forget Isharak. I will not forget you Prasanna.”
Breaks.my.heart. And true to her word, on my way back, she did not forget. She remembered my name and then told me that I promised I would buy a scarf from her. I most certainly did not make such a promise, but I most certainly could not refuse her request to buy one now. I bought this beautiful, traditional wool woven scarf which I was told was made by her father who supports her entire family through his weaving and tapestry work, which he sells to tourists. I like when my purchases have a story. It makes them interesting and it makes me feel less guilty for engaging in my worst possible impulse: shopping.
One thing Mary, Eric and I noticed when traveling this past weekend is that local people outside of Addis are fascinated by firenjes (foreigners) – i.e. us. Whenever our car stops on the road even for just a minute, the car is surrounded by locals who press their faces against the glass and peer at us inquisitively. It is often the children who are the most bold and will come up and ask you questions with the English they know.
While walking in the town of Bahir Dar, we are often surrounded by children who chat us up, most with an eye to getting some type of money. One day, a little boy and his friend approached us and said hello. Eric responded by saying Bonjour which immediately had the boy laughing. We thought he would just move along thinking we didn’t speak English, but in yet another example of expecting the unexpected, the little boy begain engaging us in conversation in French. “Comment Ca Va?” “Comment appelles-tu?” “Ca va bien”. He was really good. He then proceeded to ask us for money until we reached the hotel.
On our trek to the Blue Nile Falls, there are a number of children selling scarves, art and flutes (wooden flutes) to the many visitors. Instead of just approaching us and attempting to display their merchandise, many children adopted a tailored, individualized method of selling their goods. One little girl in particular, named Isharak, came up to me and asked, “Good afternoon Mister, what is your name?” I told her my name at which point she said, “Prasanna, that is a very beautiful name. My name is Isharak, would you like to buy a scarf? Don’t feel pressured. Take your time and on your way back from the falls, come and see me. Remember, my name is Isharak. Don’t forget Isharak. I will not forget you Prasanna.”
Breaks.my.heart. And true to her word, on my way back, she did not forget. She remembered my name and then told me that I promised I would buy a scarf from her. I most certainly did not make such a promise, but I most certainly could not refuse her request to buy one now. I bought this beautiful, traditional wool woven scarf which I was told was made by her father who supports her entire family through his weaving and tapestry work, which he sells to tourists. I like when my purchases have a story. It makes them interesting and it makes me feel less guilty for engaging in my worst possible impulse: shopping.
The Sights: The Blue Nile Falls
The Blue Nile Falls. Mystical. Breathtaking. Paradise.
The Lonely Planet describes these falls as lackluster and dried up, but we visited during the best time of year (i.e. just during/after the rainy season), making the water flow and ferocity of the falls stronger than ever. The Lonely Planet seems to be wrong on this place.
In my opinion, the falls are truly stunning – too beautiful for words and too magical to be captured in pictures and believe me we tried. We tried photographing this magnificent feat of nature from every angle and while the photos capture some of the awe and wonder of this place, they do not do the falls justice. At one point on our hike through the hills and caverns leading to the falls, surrounded by the greenest of green grass and trees, the most lush landscape and vivid colours, I sat and stared. Simply speechless. While I sat, little children sat in the trees and played the flute (I kid you not – it was like a picture of paradise that you dream about).
I thought this place must be the creation of some higher power, be it spiritual or otherwise (and for me it felt extremely spiritual), a place of such beauty and perfection, so natural and yet so incomprehensible all at the same time that I was dumbfounded. The last time I remember having this feeling of complete wonder, joy and peace was when I visited Puttaparthi last summer for the World Youth Conference and when I set my eyes on the Taj Mahal (both times). For me, the reality of being in this new place, of being in Ethiopia, of my new life since August finally hit home. As Dorothy said in the Wizard of Oz, “We are a long way from Kansas, Todo.”
Ethiopia is a land of such vast contrasts – it is not the desolate desert depicted in international images of this country. Ethiopia is not defined simply in the struggles and complexities that characterize its history and current political realities. It is a country rich in natural beauty and steeped in culture, full of people that give so completely of themselves, a country of such variance that to attach a single description to its name would be a severe injustice.
The Lonely Planet describes these falls as lackluster and dried up, but we visited during the best time of year (i.e. just during/after the rainy season), making the water flow and ferocity of the falls stronger than ever. The Lonely Planet seems to be wrong on this place.
In my opinion, the falls are truly stunning – too beautiful for words and too magical to be captured in pictures and believe me we tried. We tried photographing this magnificent feat of nature from every angle and while the photos capture some of the awe and wonder of this place, they do not do the falls justice. At one point on our hike through the hills and caverns leading to the falls, surrounded by the greenest of green grass and trees, the most lush landscape and vivid colours, I sat and stared. Simply speechless. While I sat, little children sat in the trees and played the flute (I kid you not – it was like a picture of paradise that you dream about).
I thought this place must be the creation of some higher power, be it spiritual or otherwise (and for me it felt extremely spiritual), a place of such beauty and perfection, so natural and yet so incomprehensible all at the same time that I was dumbfounded. The last time I remember having this feeling of complete wonder, joy and peace was when I visited Puttaparthi last summer for the World Youth Conference and when I set my eyes on the Taj Mahal (both times). For me, the reality of being in this new place, of being in Ethiopia, of my new life since August finally hit home. As Dorothy said in the Wizard of Oz, “We are a long way from Kansas, Todo.”
Ethiopia is a land of such vast contrasts – it is not the desolate desert depicted in international images of this country. Ethiopia is not defined simply in the struggles and complexities that characterize its history and current political realities. It is a country rich in natural beauty and steeped in culture, full of people that give so completely of themselves, a country of such variance that to attach a single description to its name would be a severe injustice.
The Sights: Lake Tana and the Outlet of the Blue Nile River
Lake Tana is one of the major lakes in Africa and plays host to nearly 37 islands, 20 of which house centuries-old monasteries that are home to monks, collections of art, religious iconography, and spiritual history. (SIDE NOTE: Apparently Haile Selassie, the famous Ethiopian emperor toyed with the idea of making Bahir Dar, the town sitting on the banks of Lake Tana, the capital of Ethiopia).
We visited three monasteries in total, with our operator/tour guide taking us from island to island by boat. Once your boat docked on the island, you had a hike (varying in distance, intensity and smoothness from island to island) ahead of you.
By the way, I discovered this weekend that hiking on rocky and muddy terrain is never advisable when wearing dress shoes (yes I wore my dress shoes to go hiking this weekend). In the future, I will purchase and wear appropriate footwear when climbing over rocks and muddy slopes. Seems self-explanatory, but it seems that I missed the memo on what type of shoes to wear.
The first monastery, Ura Kidane Meret, was located on the Zege Peninsula and was one of the largest (and definitely one of the most famous) monasteries on Lake Tana. This monastery had beautiful artwork and we witnessed a group of monks chanting and playing instruments. It was a sight to behold! Our tour guide at this monastery was Mengistu, who lived with his family, on Zege Peninsula. Mengistu was super nice and helped me walk on the rocks in my dress shoes, catching me a few times before I did a face-plant. We bought a lovely painting from him – a replica of one of the images in the monastery. His father is the artist that paints these replicas. Mengistu and his sister sell the pieces to support their family.
The second monastery we visited was only open for men. There was a large sign that read ‘No Entrance for Lady’. As such, Mary waited for us on the boat, as we did a quick run-through of the monastery. Once we arrived there, our boat operator informed us that it was closed for renovations (as the ceiling was on the verge of collapsing). As such, we only saw the museum (which in reality is a small one room building that houses beautiful and priceless pieces of Ethiopian art, artifacts, crosses, crowns and books in deplorable conditions. The tour guide poked all the items with a stick and the room was quite damp. It was so sad to see that these national treasures would likely be lost). We also saw a large stone bell. This is essentially a long, rectangular piece of rock hanging from a frame. They hit the rock with a another rock and it sounds like a large metal bell. This “rock bell” is used to call the monks to prayer.
We finally visited Debre Maryam (I believe this is the name of the final monastery we saw – but I will double check) which was rebuilt in the 19th century after being destroyed by fire. The monastery looks much newer than the other ones and this is considered the monastery for women, as there is a community of women that live on the island and run the monastery. It appears that there are still monks worshipping here and men and women are both allowed to visit this island.
So after visiting the monasteries, the boat took us to the Outlet of the Blue Nile River where lake Tana turns into the Blue Nile which flows onwards eventually into the Mediterranean Sea. It was exciting to see the source of this major river and while on the boat, I saw a “mom” hippopotamus and her baby. My friend Adelle absolutely adores hippos and I tried to take a picture for her, but to no avail – they were just too fast and dipped into the water and out of sight. Sorry Adelle – I will let you know of any future hippo sightings!
Another wonderful way to enjoy Lake Tana is to have a drink on the patio of Tana Hotel, overlooking the lake. This locale provides the perfect view of the daily sunset and the visual imagery with the trees juxtaposed against the sky is quite amazing.
We visited three monasteries in total, with our operator/tour guide taking us from island to island by boat. Once your boat docked on the island, you had a hike (varying in distance, intensity and smoothness from island to island) ahead of you.
By the way, I discovered this weekend that hiking on rocky and muddy terrain is never advisable when wearing dress shoes (yes I wore my dress shoes to go hiking this weekend). In the future, I will purchase and wear appropriate footwear when climbing over rocks and muddy slopes. Seems self-explanatory, but it seems that I missed the memo on what type of shoes to wear.
The first monastery, Ura Kidane Meret, was located on the Zege Peninsula and was one of the largest (and definitely one of the most famous) monasteries on Lake Tana. This monastery had beautiful artwork and we witnessed a group of monks chanting and playing instruments. It was a sight to behold! Our tour guide at this monastery was Mengistu, who lived with his family, on Zege Peninsula. Mengistu was super nice and helped me walk on the rocks in my dress shoes, catching me a few times before I did a face-plant. We bought a lovely painting from him – a replica of one of the images in the monastery. His father is the artist that paints these replicas. Mengistu and his sister sell the pieces to support their family.
The second monastery we visited was only open for men. There was a large sign that read ‘No Entrance for Lady’. As such, Mary waited for us on the boat, as we did a quick run-through of the monastery. Once we arrived there, our boat operator informed us that it was closed for renovations (as the ceiling was on the verge of collapsing). As such, we only saw the museum (which in reality is a small one room building that houses beautiful and priceless pieces of Ethiopian art, artifacts, crosses, crowns and books in deplorable conditions. The tour guide poked all the items with a stick and the room was quite damp. It was so sad to see that these national treasures would likely be lost). We also saw a large stone bell. This is essentially a long, rectangular piece of rock hanging from a frame. They hit the rock with a another rock and it sounds like a large metal bell. This “rock bell” is used to call the monks to prayer.
We finally visited Debre Maryam (I believe this is the name of the final monastery we saw – but I will double check) which was rebuilt in the 19th century after being destroyed by fire. The monastery looks much newer than the other ones and this is considered the monastery for women, as there is a community of women that live on the island and run the monastery. It appears that there are still monks worshipping here and men and women are both allowed to visit this island.
So after visiting the monasteries, the boat took us to the Outlet of the Blue Nile River where lake Tana turns into the Blue Nile which flows onwards eventually into the Mediterranean Sea. It was exciting to see the source of this major river and while on the boat, I saw a “mom” hippopotamus and her baby. My friend Adelle absolutely adores hippos and I tried to take a picture for her, but to no avail – they were just too fast and dipped into the water and out of sight. Sorry Adelle – I will let you know of any future hippo sightings!
Another wonderful way to enjoy Lake Tana is to have a drink on the patio of Tana Hotel, overlooking the lake. This locale provides the perfect view of the daily sunset and the visual imagery with the trees juxtaposed against the sky is quite amazing.
The Summerland: Behind the Music
The Summerland
The hotel is absolutely immaculate, but there are a few things behind the gleaming façade that are worthy of note. First, while there was hot water in my room, Mary and Eric did not have hot water in their room. Second, there was no workable TV (as advertised). Third, the service left something to be desired with only 2 people being genuinely friendly and the rest being downright unpleasant. Fourth, I had no phone or way of contacting the front desk. The Lonely Planet was a bit off on this place….too bad really. (Mind you the Lonely Planet also told us that the trip to Bahir Dar would be 6-7 hours and it ended up taking more like 12 hours).
The hotel is absolutely immaculate, but there are a few things behind the gleaming façade that are worthy of note. First, while there was hot water in my room, Mary and Eric did not have hot water in their room. Second, there was no workable TV (as advertised). Third, the service left something to be desired with only 2 people being genuinely friendly and the rest being downright unpleasant. Fourth, I had no phone or way of contacting the front desk. The Lonely Planet was a bit off on this place….too bad really. (Mind you the Lonely Planet also told us that the trip to Bahir Dar would be 6-7 hours and it ended up taking more like 12 hours).
On the (Bumpy) Road to Bahir Dar
On the (Bumpy) Road to Bahir Dar
We were awakened by a phone call Thursday morning at 1:45 AM from our mini-bus driver who indicated that he would be by to pick us up in 20 minutes. By way of background, we had decided to travel to Bahir Dar by mini-bus with 11 other random people because you could make the trip for $12 Cdn, whereas a flight cost $220 Cdn. The driver had initially told us that he would pick us up at 3:30 AM, so the call, nearly 2 hours earlier was a jolt to the system, especially since we had only gone to bed 2 hours earlier after partying it up at Terefe’s house the night before.
We met the mini-bus driver 2 blocks from our house and boarded what appeared to be a much newer mini-bus than the blue and white relics populating the streets of Addis. We boarded this bus at 2:15 AM and set out for what we assumed would be our imminent departure and comfortable, affordable journey to Bahir Dar. You know what they say about “assuming” don’t you? Well, the old adage fit this experience to a T.
The mini-bus proceded to drive in circles for the next 2 hours within Addis trying to pick up passengers to fill up our bus. I may not have noticed that we were driving in circles but for the fact that we passed the electric palm tree (a metal contraption with lights shaped like a palm tree) at least 6 times while the driver and conductor called various people to fill up the bus. At 4:30 AM, we were finally on our way to blue skies, smooth sailing and a weekend away from the hub-bub of the capital city. Or so we thought.
First, the mini-bus was much newer, but the driver sure made up for any comfort by driving on the bumpiest road ever built and by filling the bus to the rafters. Every seat was occupied. Every square inch of floor space was covered in luggage. And yet, the ride was the quietest mode of transport ever. Nobody talked with anyone. There was only the low drone of the music the driver insisted on playing over and over again to stay awake.
The scenery en route to Bahir Dar is beautiful – lush green trees, rolling lanscapes, blue skies, and fresh breezes. The mini-bus makes very few stops – a few quick washroom breaks and by washroom breaks, I mean stopping at the side of the road and everyone running to an isolated spot on the side of the road to take care of business. We made 1 stop for a longer time (45 minutes) for lunch, but Mary, Eric and I had packed our lunches in Addis (thank goodness – thanks Mary for making the Nutella sandwiches!). This stop that we made for lunch is a story in and of itself. So I walk into the restaurant to see what I can order and realize that there is grass on the floor and a sheep walking around the restaurant. Yes, a sheep in the restaurant. If you can see what is coming next, you are much more astute than I am, because I used the washroom and then went and sat in the car for a while. After a while, I got out of the car again and walked back into the restaurant and realized that I had walked into the ceremonial killing of the poor sheep. There was no way around it I guess. I thought I had avoided the ceremony when I left Addis the day before, but no such luck. Needless to say, being a vegetarian at that instant never felt so good.
After lunch, we boarded the “mini-bus”, exhausted but still excited about the untold adventures we had yet to experience in Bahir Dar. I fell asleep for what felt like a second when the bus pulled over and the door opened and 20 people tried to rush in to sit in our already full mini-bus. Apparently, the driver thought he could make a few extra bucks by picking up more passengers when we were already full. Despite our entreaties to close the door, the driver let on 3 more passengers. One sat on the floor beside me, one sat on my backpack and the other lay across the luggage in the trunk. Standing so close to someone is one thing on a local mini-bus to the office or on a subway in NYC, when you know the trip is not going to last longer than 20 minutes – but for 4 hours. Well, new experiences – that is what I came to Ethiopia for and by golly, that was what I was going to get!
We finally arrived at our hotel, the Summerland, and were super excited to check in and wash the experience of our never-ending mini-bus ride away for good. You see, the Summerland is listed as a mid-to-high range hotel in Bahir Dar which costs about 29 Cdn. Dollars per night. The Lonely Planet describes the Summerland by reference to its gleaming marble floors, immaculate rooms, hot showers, satellite TVs, friendly service and scrumptious restaurant. It was good to be home or so we thought…..
We were awakened by a phone call Thursday morning at 1:45 AM from our mini-bus driver who indicated that he would be by to pick us up in 20 minutes. By way of background, we had decided to travel to Bahir Dar by mini-bus with 11 other random people because you could make the trip for $12 Cdn, whereas a flight cost $220 Cdn. The driver had initially told us that he would pick us up at 3:30 AM, so the call, nearly 2 hours earlier was a jolt to the system, especially since we had only gone to bed 2 hours earlier after partying it up at Terefe’s house the night before.
We met the mini-bus driver 2 blocks from our house and boarded what appeared to be a much newer mini-bus than the blue and white relics populating the streets of Addis. We boarded this bus at 2:15 AM and set out for what we assumed would be our imminent departure and comfortable, affordable journey to Bahir Dar. You know what they say about “assuming” don’t you? Well, the old adage fit this experience to a T.
The mini-bus proceded to drive in circles for the next 2 hours within Addis trying to pick up passengers to fill up our bus. I may not have noticed that we were driving in circles but for the fact that we passed the electric palm tree (a metal contraption with lights shaped like a palm tree) at least 6 times while the driver and conductor called various people to fill up the bus. At 4:30 AM, we were finally on our way to blue skies, smooth sailing and a weekend away from the hub-bub of the capital city. Or so we thought.
First, the mini-bus was much newer, but the driver sure made up for any comfort by driving on the bumpiest road ever built and by filling the bus to the rafters. Every seat was occupied. Every square inch of floor space was covered in luggage. And yet, the ride was the quietest mode of transport ever. Nobody talked with anyone. There was only the low drone of the music the driver insisted on playing over and over again to stay awake.
The scenery en route to Bahir Dar is beautiful – lush green trees, rolling lanscapes, blue skies, and fresh breezes. The mini-bus makes very few stops – a few quick washroom breaks and by washroom breaks, I mean stopping at the side of the road and everyone running to an isolated spot on the side of the road to take care of business. We made 1 stop for a longer time (45 minutes) for lunch, but Mary, Eric and I had packed our lunches in Addis (thank goodness – thanks Mary for making the Nutella sandwiches!). This stop that we made for lunch is a story in and of itself. So I walk into the restaurant to see what I can order and realize that there is grass on the floor and a sheep walking around the restaurant. Yes, a sheep in the restaurant. If you can see what is coming next, you are much more astute than I am, because I used the washroom and then went and sat in the car for a while. After a while, I got out of the car again and walked back into the restaurant and realized that I had walked into the ceremonial killing of the poor sheep. There was no way around it I guess. I thought I had avoided the ceremony when I left Addis the day before, but no such luck. Needless to say, being a vegetarian at that instant never felt so good.
After lunch, we boarded the “mini-bus”, exhausted but still excited about the untold adventures we had yet to experience in Bahir Dar. I fell asleep for what felt like a second when the bus pulled over and the door opened and 20 people tried to rush in to sit in our already full mini-bus. Apparently, the driver thought he could make a few extra bucks by picking up more passengers when we were already full. Despite our entreaties to close the door, the driver let on 3 more passengers. One sat on the floor beside me, one sat on my backpack and the other lay across the luggage in the trunk. Standing so close to someone is one thing on a local mini-bus to the office or on a subway in NYC, when you know the trip is not going to last longer than 20 minutes – but for 4 hours. Well, new experiences – that is what I came to Ethiopia for and by golly, that was what I was going to get!
We finally arrived at our hotel, the Summerland, and were super excited to check in and wash the experience of our never-ending mini-bus ride away for good. You see, the Summerland is listed as a mid-to-high range hotel in Bahir Dar which costs about 29 Cdn. Dollars per night. The Lonely Planet describes the Summerland by reference to its gleaming marble floors, immaculate rooms, hot showers, satellite TVs, friendly service and scrumptious restaurant. It was good to be home or so we thought…..
Ethiopian New Year - Part Deux
So I thought my cake party at the office would be my one and only celebration of Ethiopian New Year! However, as I have come to realize, when in Ethiopia, always expect the unexpected. I returned home on Wednesday evening and after dinner, received a telephone call from our landlord, Terefe, who told us that we were going to have a New Years Celebration and light celebratory new years torches in the front yard after sunset. Well, at 9 PM, we were greeted with a large collection of logs and sticks on the driveway which were lit and a large fire was created. Terefe’s second son, Abel, started the music (a large CD player which he hooked up to the TV in the house and then cranked the volume) which included a rousing rendition of Ababaiyo. Terefe started the Ethiopian dance parade and he led us all in a group dance around the fire. Just like that. I was dancing to Teddy Afro celebrating New Years Eve at our Ethiopian home with my new group of family and friends.
We sang and danced around the fire, clapping and laughing, turning and swaying until the fire burned right out! Terefe then launched rocket like fire crackers into the air and we all celebrated the dawning of a new year. There are many photos and I hope to one day figure out how to post them on Blogger when the internet decides to cooperate for longer than a few minutes at a time.
Afterwards, we took group pictures. I must tell you that in the front yard, they had a sheep tied up, because they had bought him from the butcher earlier that day to have as their meal for New Years Day on Thursday. The sheep was dancing along and making noises to all the music, completely oblivious to his fate the very next day. I felt bad for the poor creature – as the resident vegetarian – it was my responsibility to assume this role. At one point, the sheep became so excited that he escaped from the confines of the rope that tied him to the post and ran free. The children immediately chased him and tied him back up. I was so glad that I was leaving for Bahir Dar the next day and would miss the slaughter of the sheep – ah – Lambchops – we hardly knew ye.
After the dancing and fireworks, we were treated to an Ethiopian feast of sorts by Terefe and Yeshi including injera, shiro, lentil stew/curry etc. As Wednesday and Friday are fasting days pursuant to the Ethiopian Orthodox faith, no meat products are eaten on that day – so there was no meat, eggs, cheese, dairy etc. The dinner was set out in Terefe’s house at the back. It was my first time visiting the home of Terefe and Yeshi, located literally a few feet from our back door and it was adorned in traditional decorations for the occasion – fresh grass strewn on the floor and a table with the feast spread before us. We also had popcorn with our drinks and we watched part of an Ethiopian movie with the family that dealt with inter-cultural dating and the search for a notorious, violent criminal. Yes, you read that correctly – don’t even ask me what the story was about. All I can say is that Ethiopian movies are far more risqué than Bollywood fare which often won’t even show the main characters kissing.
We sang and danced around the fire, clapping and laughing, turning and swaying until the fire burned right out! Terefe then launched rocket like fire crackers into the air and we all celebrated the dawning of a new year. There are many photos and I hope to one day figure out how to post them on Blogger when the internet decides to cooperate for longer than a few minutes at a time.
Afterwards, we took group pictures. I must tell you that in the front yard, they had a sheep tied up, because they had bought him from the butcher earlier that day to have as their meal for New Years Day on Thursday. The sheep was dancing along and making noises to all the music, completely oblivious to his fate the very next day. I felt bad for the poor creature – as the resident vegetarian – it was my responsibility to assume this role. At one point, the sheep became so excited that he escaped from the confines of the rope that tied him to the post and ran free. The children immediately chased him and tied him back up. I was so glad that I was leaving for Bahir Dar the next day and would miss the slaughter of the sheep – ah – Lambchops – we hardly knew ye.
After the dancing and fireworks, we were treated to an Ethiopian feast of sorts by Terefe and Yeshi including injera, shiro, lentil stew/curry etc. As Wednesday and Friday are fasting days pursuant to the Ethiopian Orthodox faith, no meat products are eaten on that day – so there was no meat, eggs, cheese, dairy etc. The dinner was set out in Terefe’s house at the back. It was my first time visiting the home of Terefe and Yeshi, located literally a few feet from our back door and it was adorned in traditional decorations for the occasion – fresh grass strewn on the floor and a table with the feast spread before us. We also had popcorn with our drinks and we watched part of an Ethiopian movie with the family that dealt with inter-cultural dating and the search for a notorious, violent criminal. Yes, you read that correctly – don’t even ask me what the story was about. All I can say is that Ethiopian movies are far more risqué than Bollywood fare which often won’t even show the main characters kissing.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Ethiopian New Year
Tomorrow is Ethiopian New Year and we had cake in the office today to celebrate this occassion. According to the Ethiopian calendar, there are 13 months in each year and the last month of the year (from about September 5 to September 10) is only five days long! The taxi driver yesterday told me that they do not get paid for the 5 day month, which I did not really understand but I did not ask any follow up questions. Last year, was the Ethiopian Millenium (i.e. 2000) and it was a huge celebration in Addis with concerts and lights and a spectacular tourism campaign. Under the Ethiopian calendar, tomorrow is the start of the year 2001. So technically, (if I don’t consider the fact that under the Ethiopian calendar I would have been born in 1974), I am still 20 years old (I was born in 1981 in Canada)– NICE. I like this system – shaves the years right off my age!
Given that it is Ethiopian New Year, our office is closed for Wednesday afternoon and Thursday. My boss was so kind to give me Friday off also, so Mary, Eric and I are headed to Bahir Dar – a town in the lake region north of Addis near a lake called Lake Tana which is the source of the Nile River. We are going to see the Blue Nile Falls and will also see these monasteries that are located on the lake and various islands in the lake. I am really excited to be exploring another part of Ethiopia! I will keep you posted on our adventure! We return to Addis on Sunday night.
Given that it is Ethiopian New Year, our office is closed for Wednesday afternoon and Thursday. My boss was so kind to give me Friday off also, so Mary, Eric and I are headed to Bahir Dar – a town in the lake region north of Addis near a lake called Lake Tana which is the source of the Nile River. We are going to see the Blue Nile Falls and will also see these monasteries that are located on the lake and various islands in the lake. I am really excited to be exploring another part of Ethiopia! I will keep you posted on our adventure! We return to Addis on Sunday night.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Home Cookin'
So on Sunday, I officially cooked for the first time in our new house! I made chole (chic peas curry in tomato gravy with spices, mint, cumin etc.) and carrot pulao (grated carrots, cinnamon, cloves, and chili powder mixed with basmati rice). As usual, I made too much - but this meant we had leftovers for Monday! It made me miss my mom's home cooking for sure. Thanks for the recipes mom!
United Nations
So, I forgot to mention this in a post last week, but I have a volunteer job with the United Nations while I am in Addis (until the first week of February). I will be working on Saturdays and certain weeknights with the United Nations Development Programme (Democratic Institutions Programme) as a Disability Advisor and ADR Advisor. In these capacities, I will have a chance to develop strategic plans and concept papers on how Ethiopian Institutions such as the Ethiopian Ombudsman and the Ethiopian Human Rights Commission can more fully integrate the perspectives, concerns, and views of persons with disabilities into their work through concrete, sustainable initiatives.
Some of my specific duties include a study of disability rights as articulated in Ethiopian law, analyzing the barriers to persons with disabilities in the workforce, helping to implement equity programs related to the recruitment of disabled persons in government posts, and analyzing the use of ADR strategies in these various Ethiopian government departments. Finally, I was told that I will also assist in reviewing and revising Ethiopia’s submissions to various UN human rights committees. Given that I have a full-time job already with the EBA, things will be hopping for the next few months – but I am excited.
This job came about when I mentioned to my friend Sehen that I was interested in volunteering with the UN on disability issues. I met with her boss the next day and we had a discussion about where I could become involved. After we had talked, he said that he was particularly interested in having me help out because I was from Saskatchewan. He went to the University of Saskatchewan to do his LL.M. and finished his JSD at McGill where he also taught for a few years! Can you believe it? My theory remains in tact. I maintain to this very day that everyone you will ever meet will always have a connection to Saskatchewan. People say we are a small province, but our reach is truly global. Shout out to Saskatchewan!
I am looking forward to the new challenges that this volunteer gig will pose and the exciting work that it will bring about! I will let you know how things go!
Some of my specific duties include a study of disability rights as articulated in Ethiopian law, analyzing the barriers to persons with disabilities in the workforce, helping to implement equity programs related to the recruitment of disabled persons in government posts, and analyzing the use of ADR strategies in these various Ethiopian government departments. Finally, I was told that I will also assist in reviewing and revising Ethiopia’s submissions to various UN human rights committees. Given that I have a full-time job already with the EBA, things will be hopping for the next few months – but I am excited.
This job came about when I mentioned to my friend Sehen that I was interested in volunteering with the UN on disability issues. I met with her boss the next day and we had a discussion about where I could become involved. After we had talked, he said that he was particularly interested in having me help out because I was from Saskatchewan. He went to the University of Saskatchewan to do his LL.M. and finished his JSD at McGill where he also taught for a few years! Can you believe it? My theory remains in tact. I maintain to this very day that everyone you will ever meet will always have a connection to Saskatchewan. People say we are a small province, but our reach is truly global. Shout out to Saskatchewan!
I am looking forward to the new challenges that this volunteer gig will pose and the exciting work that it will bring about! I will let you know how things go!
Coffee in the Company of Family and Friends
Ethiopia is world renowned for its coffee and coffee holds a special place in Ethiopian traditions and customs. As many of you know, I don’t drink coffee or tea back home (unless it is herbal and I am sick)….but I had heard so much about the coffee here that this past weekend – I had 2 cups of coffee! This is a big deal for me – this is only my second and third cup of coffee ever in my life! The first time I tried coffee back in undergrad, I had to add so much sugar that I did not like it at all! I might as well drink hot chocolate I thought and ever since then, hot chocolate has become my “hot” drink of choice.
However, this past weekend, Mary, Eric and I went to a place called Temocha which according to the Lonely Planet has the best coffee in all of Addis Ababa. It is this small shop that feels like it is caught in a time warp – it is like an old apothecary shop with huge bottles and a large wooden counter and the cashier wears a white lab coat. The room does not have any chairs – you stand at large counters and drink your coffee and the entire room is filled with the smoke that emanates from roasting the coffee beans! It smelt so warm and rustic. I had a cappuccino (which in Ethiopia is essentially hot chocolate with a small shot of coffee) – it was very yummy and the flavour was very rich.
Oh…another story on the coffee in Ethiopia while I remember it. There is this chain of coffee shops known as Kaldi’s Coffee. Kaldi’s has basically taken everything Starbucks and stamped their name on it. The logo is exactly the same (except instead of the word Starbucks, it says Kaldi’s). The dark green and rich tones of the interior and the coffee cups are the same. The employee uniforms are the same. The décor is the same. No joke. Essentially, Kaldi’s and Starbucks are one in the same, except nobody apparently remembered to mention this to Starbucks which came as a rude awakening when they discovered what Kaldi’s had done. Apparently, the result was that Starbucks launched a lawsuit or was thinking of launching a lawsuit against Kaldi’s – I am not sure about the exact outcome, but apparently due to some government intervention or other (and from what I recall the story is pretty interesting), Starbucks abandoned its claim.
OK – back to the story. So on Sunday, our landlord, Terefe, his wife Yeshi, his children Melat, Nethi, Abel and Baumlik and Elfie and Kazitch hosted a traditional Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony on our front verandah/porch. It was such a beautiful gesture and really made us feel welcome. It was like we were a part of the family! First, they covered the floor of the entire verandah with traditional/ceremonial fresh green grass (long blades of it laid out in a thatchwork formation). They they set up the main setting which included a chair for Yeshi who oversaw the ceremony, a stool for Kazitch who helped to fan the flames of the coals, the coal burner, the heavy pot in which all of the fresh green coffee beans were roasted, fresh incense, and a goblet holding the sugar. Yeshi began the ceremony by roasting the fresh green coffee beans (I had never seen fresh coffee before) until they turned black. While she was doing this, we feasted on Injera (traditional, flat Ethiopian Bread made out of the Ethiopian grain called Teff) and I had scrambled eggs with it. Mary and Eric had their Injera with Scrambled Egg and Beef Fir Fir (A spicy medley of beef and spices in a red sauce). The food was delicious. When we were finished, Melat took the coffee beans that her mother had just finished roasting and pounded them by hand using a mortar and pestle to ensure that the coffee beans were ground into a fine powder. This was then added to the water and boiled in a pot on the fresh coal stove. The whole time, traditional incense (which smells very similar to Indian Sambrani/Agrabathi and Mary told me, Greek incense) was generating a light and calm aroma that wafted around the porch.
The plates were cleared and then we were served snacks with our coffee which included a delightful fresh bread, a traditional Ethiopian trail mix made of barley and chic peas and wait for it…..POPCORN! Yes, there was popcorn – my favourite snack food ever! It was like they were reading my mind.
The coffee ceremony is very elaborate and took about 1.5-2 hours (this included lunch, but it does not always have lunch included). Yeshi told us that she makes coffee about 3 times per day, but I don’t think she goes through the whole ceremony each time (but I will double check). Each person is served three cups of coffee (I stopped after my first) and between each serving, the coffee is boiled anew on top of the coal furnace/stove. The coffee was very rich, and dark, and had an extremely strong flavour. Had I been a coffee person, I would have been in heaven. I enjoyed it and I loved the smell, but it was a little bit bitter for me (nowhere near Canada though – but still a bit too strong for my taste).
Afterwards, we all watched some Ethiopian music videos and I found the songs that I constantly hear on the minibus, which I LOVE! The first song is called Balageru (which means countryside) and it is an upbeat Amharic song about the countryside. It is sung by Gosail and Ephram. The second song is Ababaiyo, sung by Ethiopian superstar Teddy Afro. Ababaiyo is sung on New Years especially and it is quite upbeat and fun! Maybe you can try and find these songs on You Tube – I tried logging on to You Tube yesterday to put on a link, but there was no chance that the internet would load You Tube. No chance at all.
All of this makes me think again about how Terefe and Yeshi have essentially adopted us as their kids while we stay here. They have welcomed us and included us in their family’s celebrations and special occasions. We have only known them for a little over 3 weeks, yet it feels like there is a connection that reaches further back. I am grateful to them for making this feel like home. I am grateful to them for sharing their home with us. I am grateful to them for making us feel welcome. It means the world to us. Amezikinnalo!
However, this past weekend, Mary, Eric and I went to a place called Temocha which according to the Lonely Planet has the best coffee in all of Addis Ababa. It is this small shop that feels like it is caught in a time warp – it is like an old apothecary shop with huge bottles and a large wooden counter and the cashier wears a white lab coat. The room does not have any chairs – you stand at large counters and drink your coffee and the entire room is filled with the smoke that emanates from roasting the coffee beans! It smelt so warm and rustic. I had a cappuccino (which in Ethiopia is essentially hot chocolate with a small shot of coffee) – it was very yummy and the flavour was very rich.
Oh…another story on the coffee in Ethiopia while I remember it. There is this chain of coffee shops known as Kaldi’s Coffee. Kaldi’s has basically taken everything Starbucks and stamped their name on it. The logo is exactly the same (except instead of the word Starbucks, it says Kaldi’s). The dark green and rich tones of the interior and the coffee cups are the same. The employee uniforms are the same. The décor is the same. No joke. Essentially, Kaldi’s and Starbucks are one in the same, except nobody apparently remembered to mention this to Starbucks which came as a rude awakening when they discovered what Kaldi’s had done. Apparently, the result was that Starbucks launched a lawsuit or was thinking of launching a lawsuit against Kaldi’s – I am not sure about the exact outcome, but apparently due to some government intervention or other (and from what I recall the story is pretty interesting), Starbucks abandoned its claim.
OK – back to the story. So on Sunday, our landlord, Terefe, his wife Yeshi, his children Melat, Nethi, Abel and Baumlik and Elfie and Kazitch hosted a traditional Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony on our front verandah/porch. It was such a beautiful gesture and really made us feel welcome. It was like we were a part of the family! First, they covered the floor of the entire verandah with traditional/ceremonial fresh green grass (long blades of it laid out in a thatchwork formation). They they set up the main setting which included a chair for Yeshi who oversaw the ceremony, a stool for Kazitch who helped to fan the flames of the coals, the coal burner, the heavy pot in which all of the fresh green coffee beans were roasted, fresh incense, and a goblet holding the sugar. Yeshi began the ceremony by roasting the fresh green coffee beans (I had never seen fresh coffee before) until they turned black. While she was doing this, we feasted on Injera (traditional, flat Ethiopian Bread made out of the Ethiopian grain called Teff) and I had scrambled eggs with it. Mary and Eric had their Injera with Scrambled Egg and Beef Fir Fir (A spicy medley of beef and spices in a red sauce). The food was delicious. When we were finished, Melat took the coffee beans that her mother had just finished roasting and pounded them by hand using a mortar and pestle to ensure that the coffee beans were ground into a fine powder. This was then added to the water and boiled in a pot on the fresh coal stove. The whole time, traditional incense (which smells very similar to Indian Sambrani/Agrabathi and Mary told me, Greek incense) was generating a light and calm aroma that wafted around the porch.
The plates were cleared and then we were served snacks with our coffee which included a delightful fresh bread, a traditional Ethiopian trail mix made of barley and chic peas and wait for it…..POPCORN! Yes, there was popcorn – my favourite snack food ever! It was like they were reading my mind.
The coffee ceremony is very elaborate and took about 1.5-2 hours (this included lunch, but it does not always have lunch included). Yeshi told us that she makes coffee about 3 times per day, but I don’t think she goes through the whole ceremony each time (but I will double check). Each person is served three cups of coffee (I stopped after my first) and between each serving, the coffee is boiled anew on top of the coal furnace/stove. The coffee was very rich, and dark, and had an extremely strong flavour. Had I been a coffee person, I would have been in heaven. I enjoyed it and I loved the smell, but it was a little bit bitter for me (nowhere near Canada though – but still a bit too strong for my taste).
Afterwards, we all watched some Ethiopian music videos and I found the songs that I constantly hear on the minibus, which I LOVE! The first song is called Balageru (which means countryside) and it is an upbeat Amharic song about the countryside. It is sung by Gosail and Ephram. The second song is Ababaiyo, sung by Ethiopian superstar Teddy Afro. Ababaiyo is sung on New Years especially and it is quite upbeat and fun! Maybe you can try and find these songs on You Tube – I tried logging on to You Tube yesterday to put on a link, but there was no chance that the internet would load You Tube. No chance at all.
All of this makes me think again about how Terefe and Yeshi have essentially adopted us as their kids while we stay here. They have welcomed us and included us in their family’s celebrations and special occasions. We have only known them for a little over 3 weeks, yet it feels like there is a connection that reaches further back. I am grateful to them for making this feel like home. I am grateful to them for sharing their home with us. I am grateful to them for making us feel welcome. It means the world to us. Amezikinnalo!
Monday, September 8, 2008
Friday Night At the Movies
For those of you who know me – I am a bit of a movie fan – I love seeing movies and I love everything associated with movies – film festivals, awards shows etc. In fact, in my last job, there was a group of lawyers that used to go to the movies every Friday night.
So, this past Friday night, on my first month anniversary in Addis, we went to a movie at the Edna Mall Cinema – It was called Married Life and had a fantastic cast including Chris Cooper, Patricia Clarkson, Rachel McAdams and Pierce Brosnan. It was an indie film and we were all really surprised it would be showing in international markets. It was a pretty short movie, but it was really good – a very dark sense of humour and it was set in the 40s or 50s I think. The movie, in English, had Arabic and French subtitles. We are hoping to go and see an Amharic movie in a few weeks with one of our landlord’s kids who really likes movies (Abel). I will keep you posted!
So, this past Friday night, on my first month anniversary in Addis, we went to a movie at the Edna Mall Cinema – It was called Married Life and had a fantastic cast including Chris Cooper, Patricia Clarkson, Rachel McAdams and Pierce Brosnan. It was an indie film and we were all really surprised it would be showing in international markets. It was a pretty short movie, but it was really good – a very dark sense of humour and it was set in the 40s or 50s I think. The movie, in English, had Arabic and French subtitles. We are hoping to go and see an Amharic movie in a few weeks with one of our landlord’s kids who really likes movies (Abel). I will keep you posted!
Perfect Strangers and Instant Friends
This blog entry is not about the 80s sitcom with the characters of Balki Bartokomous and Larry Appleton, but instead chronicles a few stories of some wonderful people and interesting characters that I met this weekend.
On Friday, I left the office and was walking to the bus stop. En route, a 20-something Ethiopian guy came up beside me and said “Hi Friend!” I turned thinking it might be someone from the office or someone I know only to see a complete stranger who proceeded to walk beside me and ask about where I was from and what I was doing. At one point, he told me, “You know friend, life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get!” I know. Forrest Gump on a Friday afternoon in the middle of Addis Ababa. I practically had to pinch myself, because while ridiculous stuff happens to me almost on a regular basis, this little anecdote almost seemed too perfect – like an episode of Seinfeld or a skit from SNL.
On Friday, after dinner, I went to the bookstore in Edna Mall (one of the big malls in Addis) to look for a book on English grammar for my colleague at work who asked me to find him a good resource textbook. While at the bookstore, I met Hariprasad, the owner (or at least the manager) of the shop, who gave me the full scoop on all things East Indian in Ethiopia. He told me about the good restaurants and the Deepavali party (Diwali Party) that the Indian Embassy hosts in a few weeks! He was super nice and promised to give me the full low-down on all of the good finds in Addis! I am glad I met him!
On Saturday, we went shopping in the Piazza area of Addis (you might note that a number of the names of areas in Addis are Italian, stemming from the Italian occupation of Ethiopia) – there is Merkato, Piazza, Kassanjis etc. In any event, while shopping in Piazza, one person said to me, “Hi India! Come and visit my shop.” Another person, tried to catch my attention from behind by yelling “Hey China” and then realized I was not Chinese when I turned around to face him. It seems like calling out to people based on their nationality is a common trend used by vendors or people on the street. A friend of mine has told me this happens to her regularly.
On Friday, I left the office and was walking to the bus stop. En route, a 20-something Ethiopian guy came up beside me and said “Hi Friend!” I turned thinking it might be someone from the office or someone I know only to see a complete stranger who proceeded to walk beside me and ask about where I was from and what I was doing. At one point, he told me, “You know friend, life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get!” I know. Forrest Gump on a Friday afternoon in the middle of Addis Ababa. I practically had to pinch myself, because while ridiculous stuff happens to me almost on a regular basis, this little anecdote almost seemed too perfect – like an episode of Seinfeld or a skit from SNL.
On Friday, after dinner, I went to the bookstore in Edna Mall (one of the big malls in Addis) to look for a book on English grammar for my colleague at work who asked me to find him a good resource textbook. While at the bookstore, I met Hariprasad, the owner (or at least the manager) of the shop, who gave me the full scoop on all things East Indian in Ethiopia. He told me about the good restaurants and the Deepavali party (Diwali Party) that the Indian Embassy hosts in a few weeks! He was super nice and promised to give me the full low-down on all of the good finds in Addis! I am glad I met him!
On Saturday, we went shopping in the Piazza area of Addis (you might note that a number of the names of areas in Addis are Italian, stemming from the Italian occupation of Ethiopia) – there is Merkato, Piazza, Kassanjis etc. In any event, while shopping in Piazza, one person said to me, “Hi India! Come and visit my shop.” Another person, tried to catch my attention from behind by yelling “Hey China” and then realized I was not Chinese when I turned around to face him. It seems like calling out to people based on their nationality is a common trend used by vendors or people on the street. A friend of mine has told me this happens to her regularly.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
The Emperor
So I have been reading this book called The Emperor by Polish journalist and leading foreign correspondent Ryszard Kapuscinski which chronicles the rise, fall and reign of Haile Selassie, Emperor of Ethiopia who reigned from 1930 until he was overthrown by the army in 1974. After his fall and while the country was in the throes of fighting, Kapuscinski traveled to Ethiopia and interviewed the servants and close associates of Selassie to find about his tenure as Emperor and to explore why he fell from power. In one particularly poignant passage, one of the servants/workers that Kapuscinski interviews, makes the following statements about the import of money in the developing world:
Money in a poor country and money in a rich country are two different things. In a rich country, money is a piece of paper with which you buy goods on a market. You are only a customer. Even a millionaire is only a customer. He may purchase more, but he remains a customer, nothing more. And in a poor country? In a poor country, money is a wonderful, thick hedge, dazzling and always blooming, which separates you from everything else. Through that hedge you do not see creeping poverty, you do not smell the stench of misery, and you do not hear the voices of the human dregs. But at the same time you know that all of that exists, and you feel proud because of your hedge. You have money; that means you have wings. You are the bird of paradise that everyone admires.
What powerful words and what an insightful view of the realities that social stratification and economic disparity wreak in the world! I am not sure how I feel about this passage entirely. To a certain extent, I agree with the distinction drawn between money in rich and poor countries and the level of importance given to it. However, I am not sure how I feel about the classification of money in rich countries as simply a commodity, bereft of any social significance beyond its role as an emblem of commerce and trade. There is poverty in developed countries, despite the fact that booming economies and indicators of wealth and success often shroud this reality to the rest of the world. But upon further reflection, this passage is not saying that there is no disparity in wealth in rich countries. It is not saying that there is no poverty. It simply states that money, at its core, defines what we can and cannot purchase.
Having only been here for one month, I can already see the elevated status that having money brings here. It is instantly apparent. This passage encapsulates in words the feeling I get at the distance money puts between those who have it and those who do not. The notion of the five-star hotel, perfect, pristine, almost unattainable - situated beyond thick hedges blocking out the reality of the outside world.
Anyways, I am rambling, but I wanted to share this passage and express how much it struck me and made me think. I am not sure exactly how to internalize it, but there it is. Read the book if you can. It is a really interesting and engaging way of presenting history and calls upon people and sources of information that are often overlooked.
Money in a poor country and money in a rich country are two different things. In a rich country, money is a piece of paper with which you buy goods on a market. You are only a customer. Even a millionaire is only a customer. He may purchase more, but he remains a customer, nothing more. And in a poor country? In a poor country, money is a wonderful, thick hedge, dazzling and always blooming, which separates you from everything else. Through that hedge you do not see creeping poverty, you do not smell the stench of misery, and you do not hear the voices of the human dregs. But at the same time you know that all of that exists, and you feel proud because of your hedge. You have money; that means you have wings. You are the bird of paradise that everyone admires.
What powerful words and what an insightful view of the realities that social stratification and economic disparity wreak in the world! I am not sure how I feel about this passage entirely. To a certain extent, I agree with the distinction drawn between money in rich and poor countries and the level of importance given to it. However, I am not sure how I feel about the classification of money in rich countries as simply a commodity, bereft of any social significance beyond its role as an emblem of commerce and trade. There is poverty in developed countries, despite the fact that booming economies and indicators of wealth and success often shroud this reality to the rest of the world. But upon further reflection, this passage is not saying that there is no disparity in wealth in rich countries. It is not saying that there is no poverty. It simply states that money, at its core, defines what we can and cannot purchase.
Having only been here for one month, I can already see the elevated status that having money brings here. It is instantly apparent. This passage encapsulates in words the feeling I get at the distance money puts between those who have it and those who do not. The notion of the five-star hotel, perfect, pristine, almost unattainable - situated beyond thick hedges blocking out the reality of the outside world.
Anyways, I am rambling, but I wanted to share this passage and express how much it struck me and made me think. I am not sure exactly how to internalize it, but there it is. Read the book if you can. It is a really interesting and engaging way of presenting history and calls upon people and sources of information that are often overlooked.
Monday, September 1, 2008
Penne, Crepes, and Project Runway: Ethiopia Edition
So this weekend, Eric arrived from Toronto! It was so nice to finally meet him. He is super nice and he brought us crepes from France to have for his breakfast here! They were delicious! I also discovered that we have a mutual love for movies – so it will be nice to catch a few flicks while in Addis.
On Saturday, we all went for dinner with Sehen to this place called Blue Café which had very yummy pasta! On Sunday, our landlord let us know that he would be putting in water reserve tank which will ensure that we will always have water. I don’t know if I mentioned this before, but on the weekends, running water has been in short supply. So yay for continuous water and yay for daily showers (the simple pleasures really)!
On Sunday night, I joined my landlord, Terefe and his family to attend the annual fashion expo organized by Next Design in Addis, featuring up-and-coming fashion designers displaying their clothing creations. Let me just, Terefe, his wife Yeshi, his sons, Abel, Neti and little Baumlik and his daughter Melat have just been fabulous – they have been so welcoming and really kind. When we moved in, Yeshi promised us that she would look after us just as our mothers had. In fact, she has asked us to call her mom. The children are also really kind, helpful and happy! Little Baumlik (the youngest, in Grade 3) always opens the gate for us if he is playing outside. When we thank him, he tells us, “It was my pleasure.” After three weeks in Africa, it is nice to feel like part of a family. It helps, especially when you miss your family and friends at home. Thanks Terefe, Yeshi, Melat, Neti, Abel and Baumlik for making us feel so welcome!
Anywhoo, back to the story. Melat, is one of the designers featured at this fashion show event (she has been in this intensive design program for the summer before she starts university in the fall) and it was quite an interesting experience to see all of clothes and the trends in Addis! As many of you know, I am sort of a clothes fiend, so I was certainly in my element. Also, my friend Priya introduced me to Project Runway last year, so I was super excited to see if there would be any over-the-top clothing creations or over-the-top personalities.
While in New York, I really wanted to attend a Fashion week event/show at Bryant Park, but you pretty much have to be uber-connected to get into such a shindig! So, this was, officially, my first fashion show. Let me say that these up and coming designers did not disappoint. There were some lovely creations and such rich fabrics and colors. Melat’s creations were lovely.
But you mostly go to the fashion shows to see the fashion mis-fires – the dresses and outfits so out to lunch that you swear they will stay there until dinner. And boy, some of these designers did not disappoint. There was the dress made out of the burlap sack (my landlord emphasized that the dress was made of a potato sack). Oh, and let me not forget the dress made out of gold doilies laminated into a cape with silk roses in between each one. Oh or the white dress with the huge sombrero that one model wore with a huge feather. There was also a black dress with a huge metal spider web on the back…wait a second….I think the black dress made the model the spider sitting on the web….
I am so sad that I was not allowed to take pictures during the show – it would have been such a treat – there were some “interesting” creations.
There was also a panel of judges who gave out awards at the end of the night. The show lasted about 3 hours and had a few dances interspersed throughout the action. I also discovered that there is an official rap song about Ethiopia which got people of all ages in the audience clapping to the beat. I.must.track.down.this.CD. It was played about 2 times during the show and so was SexyBack (the Justin Timberlake song). It seems like the designers picked the songs they wanted played when their models walked out on to the runway.
Once I figure out how to post some pics, I will put them up to show you the runway and the group pictures we took after the show! Thanks to Terefe and co. for a fun night!
On Saturday, we all went for dinner with Sehen to this place called Blue Café which had very yummy pasta! On Sunday, our landlord let us know that he would be putting in water reserve tank which will ensure that we will always have water. I don’t know if I mentioned this before, but on the weekends, running water has been in short supply. So yay for continuous water and yay for daily showers (the simple pleasures really)!
On Sunday night, I joined my landlord, Terefe and his family to attend the annual fashion expo organized by Next Design in Addis, featuring up-and-coming fashion designers displaying their clothing creations. Let me just, Terefe, his wife Yeshi, his sons, Abel, Neti and little Baumlik and his daughter Melat have just been fabulous – they have been so welcoming and really kind. When we moved in, Yeshi promised us that she would look after us just as our mothers had. In fact, she has asked us to call her mom. The children are also really kind, helpful and happy! Little Baumlik (the youngest, in Grade 3) always opens the gate for us if he is playing outside. When we thank him, he tells us, “It was my pleasure.” After three weeks in Africa, it is nice to feel like part of a family. It helps, especially when you miss your family and friends at home. Thanks Terefe, Yeshi, Melat, Neti, Abel and Baumlik for making us feel so welcome!
Anywhoo, back to the story. Melat, is one of the designers featured at this fashion show event (she has been in this intensive design program for the summer before she starts university in the fall) and it was quite an interesting experience to see all of clothes and the trends in Addis! As many of you know, I am sort of a clothes fiend, so I was certainly in my element. Also, my friend Priya introduced me to Project Runway last year, so I was super excited to see if there would be any over-the-top clothing creations or over-the-top personalities.
While in New York, I really wanted to attend a Fashion week event/show at Bryant Park, but you pretty much have to be uber-connected to get into such a shindig! So, this was, officially, my first fashion show. Let me say that these up and coming designers did not disappoint. There were some lovely creations and such rich fabrics and colors. Melat’s creations were lovely.
But you mostly go to the fashion shows to see the fashion mis-fires – the dresses and outfits so out to lunch that you swear they will stay there until dinner. And boy, some of these designers did not disappoint. There was the dress made out of the burlap sack (my landlord emphasized that the dress was made of a potato sack). Oh, and let me not forget the dress made out of gold doilies laminated into a cape with silk roses in between each one. Oh or the white dress with the huge sombrero that one model wore with a huge feather. There was also a black dress with a huge metal spider web on the back…wait a second….I think the black dress made the model the spider sitting on the web….
I am so sad that I was not allowed to take pictures during the show – it would have been such a treat – there were some “interesting” creations.
There was also a panel of judges who gave out awards at the end of the night. The show lasted about 3 hours and had a few dances interspersed throughout the action. I also discovered that there is an official rap song about Ethiopia which got people of all ages in the audience clapping to the beat. I.must.track.down.this.CD. It was played about 2 times during the show and so was SexyBack (the Justin Timberlake song). It seems like the designers picked the songs they wanted played when their models walked out on to the runway.
Once I figure out how to post some pics, I will put them up to show you the runway and the group pictures we took after the show! Thanks to Terefe and co. for a fun night!
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